Do I need.......

MidGaGN

The "Computer Guy"
Joined
Feb 2, 2009
1.) I'm running a external wastegate with the down pipe. Do I need the stock boost gauge sensor? I'm running a separate boost gauge. I wouldn't think so I just wanted to verify...

2.) I blocked off my egr and was wondering if I needed to keep the EGR vacuum regulator...

3.) Finally, the DP i have has provisions for Wideband. Until I upgrade could I run my 02 sensor there or would it not be good to have post-turbo o2 readings?

Questions from a rambling mind...
Thanks
 
Bump - Seriously, I need to know this stuff. If you know of a faq I'll read it.

Trying to remove as much unnecessary hardware as possible....
 
1) No, you don't need the stock MAP sensor.... controls the stock boost gage only... if you are referring to the boost solenoid on the valve cover, you don't need it either, but it might set a code and turn on the SES light if you unplug the connector... depending on your chip... try it and see....

2) No, you don't need the egr crap with a block plate..

3) No, you don't want to run the stock O2 sensor in the downpipe for ecm closed loop control.... save up for the wideband.... :)

1) and 3) assume you are using the stock ecm for engine management...

hth... :)
 
1) Just for clarification, do you mean the stock boost gauge in the dash, or the MAP sensor that the stock display (i.e.-dash gauge) gets its reading from? Either way, the stock boost gauge is more than likely innaccurate, but I would leave it alone. As far as the MAP sensor goes, you can get rid of it, but you'll have to add one back on later (a different 3-bar vs. stock 2-bar) if you plan on going with a progressive alky system. :)

2) No

3) No, and I don't see the point of it anyway.
 
the problem with o2 after turbo is with bigger turbos, test pipes , free flow exhausts is lower egts , it barely has enough temp to be responsive before turbo, move it after and it is about 300 degrees cooler , sensor needs 600*F, pre turbo I'm below that at idle
if your chip is a open loop it wont matter much , i run mine after turbo with my TT chip

if you get a heated O2 then after turbo will be just fine regardless of chip and it will more accurately reflect whats going on if you run high boost or high egts

as for wideband sensor ,, they bosch holds up better the further you can get it from heat , if your pipe has a bung up by the turbo , dont use it for WB sensor instead have another bung mounted down by the bend before about 12" before the test pipe/cutout
 
Wow, thanks guys! Excellent response.


As far as the number 1 question... I was talking about that little box on top of the passenger side valve cover. The one that has the vacuum line hooked to it.
 
Wow, thanks guys! Excellent response.


As far as the number 1 question... I was talking about that little box on top of the passenger side valve cover. The one that has the vacuum line hooked to it.

dont need it.
 
Wow, thanks guys! Excellent response.


As far as the number 1 question... I was talking about that little box on top of the passenger side valve cover. The one that has the vacuum line hooked to it.

That's called the wastegate solenoid. See, the stock wastegate has a 12lb spring in it, so without the wastegate solenoid, the max boost you could achieve would be 12lbs. The wastegate solenoid bleeds off boost pressure in order to raise boost levels to around ~14lbs or so. This is assuming a completely stock setup (i.e.-non-adjustable wastegate, etc.)

If you remove the solenoid, the ECM may or may not throw a code/SES light. Most people just remove the solenoid, leave it connected, and tuck it out of the way. I did the same and had Eric at TurboTweak make a change in the chip so that the computer wouldn't throw a code when I removed the solenoid.
 
Top