Dodge Dakota V8 info Needed

[TonyC]

Hi all, no Turbo Buick GN here, but I'm certainly a horsepower hound.

I have a 98 Dakota that I'm building for strip use. I am building a 408 stroker from a 360 block, details include low compression, solid roller cam, heavily ported heads, MPI, with a Vortech V2SQ as a power adder. I have several questions related to a planned F.A.S.T. install.

1) I will be using an old style 727 instead of the factory lockup tranny. This means that I need to run an old style flex plate. This means that I have to mess with my crank sensor (factory is via the flex plate). Is there a simple setup I can use to trigger it from the distributor, or front of the crank?

2) The factory distributor is used to synch the injector timing. Will I still need to use it for such, or will the F.A.S.T. pull that from the crank sensor?

3) with an expected boost of up to 15 psi, do I need a 2 or 3 bar map sensor?

4) which F.A.S.T. unit will I need. Non-DIS, Sequential, wide band, supercharger with upgraded map sensor. I plan on using it as a total stand-alone ECU.

Any other info that would be useful based on the above is appreciated.

TIA
TonyC

 

[Craig Smith]

1. You can (and should, in my opinion) use a standard crank trigger for a crank sensor with a FAST system.

2. You will only need to supply a cam sync signal to the FAST unit for sychronizing the injector timing if you are going to use a sequential system. Even with a seq, it's not required, but recommended. Without a cam sync on a seq system, it will run but every time you start it, the injector timing will be different.

3. A 2 bar sensor is good for up to 15 psi. That is what I would use, as it will provide additional tuning resolution over a 3 bar sensor.

4. I think for what you have described a bank to bank system would work well. For a crank trigger ignition (or even an MSD-type distributor) you can order part number 30-113010. That gets you an ECU, harness, software, and wide band O2 sensor.

 

[TonyC]

1. any particular brand to use or avoid?

2. Can I use the factory distributor, or will I have to get an older style or aftermarket unit?

3. point taken.

4. I'd prefer the sequential with wide band. would that be a 30-213010? Or is there something to be gained with a 30-213011? Will that require 8 separate egts? estimated power is 690-710 ft/lbs and 720-750 hp with peaks around 5800 and a redline of 6800. will I be able to toss the Haltech aux injector controller and injectors in the airhat?

 

[KendallF]

I have a 2000 Dakota R/T...it's the slowest thing I own. I think you can get an MSD trigger for the 360s...not sure if there are differences between the late Magnum blocks and early ones there.

I haven't taken a stock late model distributor apart...if it's a mag reluctor unit you could grind off all but one pole corresponding to #1 cylinder and use it to supply the sync for #1.

Get your intake design fairly equalized for airflow and you won't need 8 EGTs.

 

[TonyC]

Just back from the track, and my daily driver R/T was pulling 13.8s @ 97.2+ all night. Their not all slow, and the project has a goal of mid/high 10s

I believe that the MSD will work on the Magnums, will look into it.
The late distribs are different, not a shutter setup anymore, mag plate with synch for cyl 1 only, timing is handled by the PCMs.

The 8 egts was in reference to the individually adjustable cylinder FAST unit. The question still remains, if I use that one will I need egts for optimum tunability?

 

[Craig Smith]

You wouldn't NEED egt sensors to tune individual cylinders. If you wanted to do this EGTs provide good info to go by, but you could even go by looking at the spark plugs.

I think that individual cylinder control is serious overkill on a 13 second (or even a ten second) vehicle. Pro Stock engines using this type of technology are able to see another 20 or 30 hp out of a 1300 hp engine. Based on that, it wouldn't be unreasonable to assume that you would find maybe 5 hp max out of it. It is an expensive option that you probably woudn't notice anywhere except your pocketbook. I hate to downplay things we make money on, but I'd hate for you to waste that kind of money.

 

[TonyC]

Thanks for the reply Craig. So the 30-213010 would be the unit I'd want then?

 

[Craig Smith]

That part number isn't valid anymore. I would order 30-213310. That will do idle air control and fan control; no fuel pump control though. If you want nitrous control on a sequential system, order 30-213210. That will get you two stage nitrous control but you lose the fan and the IAC.

 

[TonyC]

Again, thanks. Looks like I have all of my initial questions answered.

I'll me back in a while after I order up the system, and have the motor built and installed

 

[Tow Man]

Originally posted by KendallF
I have a 2000 Dakota R/T...it's the slowest thing I own.


I feel your pain. I just got rid of mine. Worst vehicle purchase of my life.

How many gallons per mile are you getting? LOL.

 

[TonyC]

Well, I have 3 Gen III Daks, 2 are R/Ts. The stocker runs 14.5s 14mpg, the toy runs 13.6 high 15mpg, and the project is getting a S/C 408 stroker, looking for low 10s mpg - who cares