Doing A real low budget Rebuild this time.

[TURBOPOWERED68]

the engine has about 180K miles
the last time on the road it spun the #6 rod bearing.
The plan is to ONLY
1-Hone the block
2-cut the crank to what ever it needs
3-clean and re-ring the OE pistons
4-Re-size the rods
5-clean and re-use the OE timing cover
6-stock rebuild on the heads
7-roller cam with GM lifters and the spider hold down
Yes every thing will be cleaned and looked over and only damaged parts will be replaced.
then beat the crap out of it is it lasts long enough.

 

[charlief1]

Did you blow it again David? What's goin on?

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Did you blow it again David? What's goin on?

NO NO NO
the Chevelle is running great David Husek did one heck of a job.
This is for the Regal, I have some "issues" and need to move the car around other wise i'll never get to working on it and since i have 5 motors now i figure i build a "junk" motor to get me going and get me some more experience while a high 10s capable motor gets built over the winter and hope fully be ready for next season.
BTW i am hoping that the high 10s motor will have a set of "CharlieF1" Fully ported heads.:biggrin:

The goal is to keep this Low budget build way under $1000.00, What do think?

 

[charlief1]

Good to hear it David. I sent you a PM and I think it'll suprise you.

 

[WarWagon]

I like this Idea, This is something I'd try out If I had more time and engines/parts.

 

[Turbo-Archie]

Line bore?


..

 

[Grumpy]

Mag it to. It can work just don't try an cut corners.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Good to hear it David. I sent you a PM and I think it'll suprise you.

it doesn't surprise me dude you are the man

Line bore?

..

only IF it absolutely needs it

Mag it to. It can work just don't try an cut corners.

crank?? yes thats getting done

the goal is to get this done under $1000.00 parts and machine work labor

 

[charlief1]

Mag and sonic the block to be safe David, not to mention the rods.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Mag and sonic the block to be safe David, not to mention the rods.

i love you guys
first i am spending too much and now i am trying to be really cheap and you guys wont let me


i'll talk to the machine shop and see what they tall me about prices.
i'll post up what i find out.

 

[charlief1]

i love you guys
first i am spending too much and now i am trying to be really cheap and you guys wont lat me


i'll talk to the machine shop and see what they tall me about prices.
i'll post up what i find out.

Cheap is relative David. If their not sound parts you will blow the money you've spent putting it together.:frown:

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Cheap is relative David. If their not sound parts you will blow the money you've spent putting it together.:frown:

i get you guys and appreciate you all for taking and your time and schooling a super rookie like my self (this internet thing leaves out the smiles, chuckles)
When ever you and that old Grumpy guy suggest something i take as if it is written in stone.

the big problems for me right know are time, space and location.
1-My garage (Dads garage) is a disaster=2.5 car size packed to gills shed
2-Its at least 45 minutes away at 3:00 AM now add NY traffic till at least 9:30 PM- i would kill a minimum of 2 hours every time i wanted to work on the car
3-At home all i have is a driveway so i would have to move the car daily

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

I think i am finally going to do this one.

The one thing that my builder is kicking my ass about is the top of the cylinder (above where the piston rings travel)
He says it would be hard to near impossible to get the new piston rings past it with out any damage to the rings.
would it be possible to hone that out with out re-sizing the cylinder??
He is also complaining about the cylinder being too big for the piston because of the high miles.-- My worthless opinion is that this thing ran great at 180K miles and it didn't even smoke, it did have a good amount of blow-by at high boost (34psi)
I am sure some one else has done this type of rebuild before, If you have and don't want to post it up please PM with your out come.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

the engine has about 180K miles
the last time on the road it spun the #6 rod bearing.
I got these machine shop prices almost 2 years ago, going to call on Monday and see how much the prices changed.
1-Hone the block ----------------------------$60.00
2-Line hone-----------------------------------$175.00
3-cut the crank to what ever it needs--------$125.00
4-Re-size the rods-----------------------------$90.00
5-clean and re-use the OE timing cover----My labor
6-stock rebuild on the heads-----------------$150.00 pair
7-Freeze out plugs and installation -----------$20.00
8-Install new cam bearings --------------------$25.00
9--Boil block ------------------------------------$75.00
sub total ----------------------------------- =$720.00
...........................................................................Plus
A-roller cam with GM lifters and the spider hold down ???? maybe just a flat tapped cam ???
B-Cam bearings -----------------------------------$$
C-Main bearings ----------------------------------$$
D-Rod bearings------------------------------------$$
E-Full engine gasket set-------------------------$$$
F-Cam sensor------------------------------------$$$
G-Piston rings------------------------------------$$$
No way this thing stays under $1000.00 maybe under $1500.00

 

[HelloBozos]

You won't be using the same 180mile timing cover or oil pump assembly.
To fix my cracked sleeve ordeal, it was $2100,minus $300 for new block. That was all new bearings/rings an just all my internals switched to new block an assembled. If you wanted to go cheap, an you didn't do to much damage in the motor,you could just replace all the rods bearings an let it ride...that'd be about $1000 for the machine shop if you did the motor remove an replace yourself.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

1-You won't be using the same 180mile timing cover or oil pump assembly.
To fix my cracked sleeve ordeal, it was $2100,minus $300 for new block. That was all new bearings/rings an just all my internals switched to new block an assembled. If you wanted to go cheap, an you didn't do to much damage in the motor,you could just replace all the rods bearings an let it ride...that'd be about $1000 for the machine shop if you did the motor remove an replace yourself.

I do all the removal and install my self,
1-Why not? the oil pressure was always high during idle (over 20# PSI) and high RPM
The problem with what are saying is the the #6 rod NEEDS attention (replace, resize what ever) and to do that it has to come out of the cylinder then go back in passed the ridge or what ever its called on the top of the cylinder wall.

 

[HelloBozos]

I do all the removal and install my self,
1-Why not? the oil pressure was always high during idle (over 20# PSI) and high RPM
The problem with what are saying is the the #6 rod NEEDS attention (replace, resize what ever) and to do that it has to come out of the cylinder then go back in passed the ridge or what ever its called on the top of the cylinder wall.

You'll see when you take it off,(the timing cover), it's Wear Issue (the Cam Button-Oil pump)

If u want a cheap build, only fix whats broke. It would be best for you just to freshen the whole motor though with all those miles on it.

 

[earlbrown]

If the stock cover is useable, use it. The cam button wear won't matter as the new roller cam button doesn't rub against the casting like the original did.

I'd check the rods for roundness before committing to resizing them. If they don't need it, there's not reason to pay to resize them. If the top of the bore is bellmouthed and won't clean up during a light hone. It won't hurt your rings, they'll just lose some seal at TDC. (I'd do the honing at home and save that money too). You can also do the freeze plugs yourself too. That'll save $170.

A bore gauge will pay for itself with this build. You can check (and tighten) your vertical clearance on the mains, check the rods for round, and see how worn the top of the cylinders are with that one too.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

If the stock cover is useable, use it. The cam button wear won't matter as the new roller cam button doesn't rub against the casting like the original did.

I'd check the rods for roundness before committing to resizing them. If they don't need it, there's not reason to pay to resize them. If the top of the bore is bellmouthed and won't clean up during a light hone. It won't hurt your rings, they'll just lose some seal at TDC. (I'd do the honing at home and save that money too). You can also do the freeze plugs yourself too. That'll save $170.

A bore gauge will pay for itself with this build. You can check (and tighten) your vertical clearance on the mains, check the rods for round, and see how worn the top of the cylinders are with that one too.

I did put in a roller cam button in 06 when i replaced the OE chain with a double roller.
the reluctant builder has a dial gauge and all the tools to do the job.

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

The machinist is referring to ring ridge. I wouldn't touch it either.