Door Hinge Pin Rollers
- Thread starter Morbid
- Start date
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Hinge rollers
I've looked at that issue myself but never took any action. My thought was to grind the pin off, toss the roller and make up a small ball bearing, fitted with a bolt to fit the inner race, a spacer to prevent the outer race from rubbing on the hinge. I still haven't done it but its on my "todo" list.
I would be interested in your thoughts dealing with this problem. BTW I never found any info on the boards on dealing with it either I just thought I was the only one faced with it.
I've looked at that issue myself but never took any action. My thought was to grind the pin off, toss the roller and make up a small ball bearing, fitted with a bolt to fit the inner race, a spacer to prevent the outer race from rubbing on the hinge. I still haven't done it but its on my "todo" list.
I would be interested in your thoughts dealing with this problem. BTW I never found any info on the boards on dealing with it either I just thought I was the only one faced with it.
The roller on my Drivers Side Pin is shot. Door makes a god awful noise when opening closing it and I'm afraid the damn roller is going to give.
The bushings and hinge pin are fine though so I really don't want to drop the $$ for the pricey new full hinge. Even used hinges are expensive.
I did some more looking under different search terms this morning and found a thread in the TTA forum that list's a company selling either a kit (both pins, bushings, and roller) or just the roller and it's pin.
Problem is that's for an F-Body so I'm not sure it will work for G-Bodies but you would think someone would have NOS on this
Later this morning I found this thread (after playing with the search terms again) in which a poster says the roller and pin has been discontinued from GM for our cars but he gives some part numbers for a S-10 that should work.
I don't know about just putting a ball there. That roller is grooved so the arm and ride in there.
I think I'm going to call TopDown Solutions and ask them if they have something that will work for G-bodies.
The bushings and hinge pin are fine though so I really don't want to drop the $$ for the pricey new full hinge. Even used hinges are expensive.
I did some more looking under different search terms this morning and found a thread in the TTA forum that list's a company selling either a kit (both pins, bushings, and roller) or just the roller and it's pin.
Problem is that's for an F-Body so I'm not sure it will work for G-Bodies but you would think someone would have NOS on this
Later this morning I found this thread (after playing with the search terms again) in which a poster says the roller and pin has been discontinued from GM for our cars but he gives some part numbers for a S-10 that should work.
I don't know about just putting a ball there. That roller is grooved so the arm and ride in there.
I think I'm going to call TopDown Solutions and ask them if they have something that will work for G-bodies.
You are correct, I forgot about those guide flanges. I knew there was a reason for my washer idea but gave you the wrong reason. I guess I thought that one on top and one on the bottom would do the trick. I will tackle it someday as my door makes the same noise you refer to also and I keep spraying it with lube but sooner or later I'll have to bite the bullet. If you do find a reasonably cost effective solution I would be pleased to hear about it. Please keep us posted on your progress. Its too friggin' cold here to work on it yet so I'll drag my heels and wait for you 
Peter
Peter
I'll keep the thread updated as I work through this, the Regal has been sitting all winter and it's starting to warm up enough here where I can work on her behind the Garage without my Winter Bibs on.
This is what that TTA roller/pin looks like, while this and this show the hinge assembly. The hinge looks pretty much like the upper on our cars so this might be doable.
I called TopDown and they said they had no idea if their kit's I was talking about would work for G-Bodies. My GM Parts guy said I'm right in that the proper roller/pin has been discontinued (I can get a whole new hinge for $85.00 though). He told me he's going to pull out the old GM Parts books and see if he can cross reference another part for me.
What I may do is bite the bullet and replace the whole hinge then try this newer part number on the old one. That way I'm not screwed if it doesn't work.
So it begins.
Greg
This is what that TTA roller/pin looks like, while this and this show the hinge assembly. The hinge looks pretty much like the upper on our cars so this might be doable.
I called TopDown and they said they had no idea if their kit's I was talking about would work for G-Bodies. My GM Parts guy said I'm right in that the proper roller/pin has been discontinued (I can get a whole new hinge for $85.00 though). He told me he's going to pull out the old GM Parts books and see if he can cross reference another part for me.
What I may do is bite the bullet and replace the whole hinge then try this newer part number on the old one. That way I'm not screwed if it doesn't work.
So it begins.
Greg
turbofish38
Le Pétomane
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2002
- Messages
- 6,160
Replacing that roller is a PITA! First off the G-body spec roller is discontinued. Now what I have used in its place is the roller from a 82-93 vintage S-10. The roller is held onto the fat pin with a pressed in pin. Thats the PITA part of this trying to get the pin out in one piece. If you succeed than use GM part 20058035 for the roller and 20262500 for the pin. The only difference between the S-10 roller and the one from a G-body is the outside diameter. Its about 1mm smaller if that. Most of the time it's a lot easier just to grab a good used hinge out of the boneyard. New hinge assemblies are still available if you want to spend a small fortune to fix the problem.
Thanks turbofish38 for providing some insight via experience. I'll give Brian Weavy and holler and see what he's got, but I'm sorta getting tired of having to replace the entire hinge for any problem.
One question though. Since the roller and pin from the S-10 your talking about are available can't one just use a air chisel or something to get the old pin/roller out?
One question though. Since the roller and pin from the S-10 your talking about are available can't one just use a air chisel or something to get the old pin/roller out?
