DS Header finally cracks...need help!

I have to get my headers welded too. They came to me with the flange cut between #3 and #5 and a giant glob of weld slag (even more than you think, like someone was gonna drown the leak in the past).

I was wondering if I should go about gringing all the extra slag off before I have them repaired. I do have a spare head to bolt to, so that's no problem.

Any ideas?
 
i just ordered a brand new postons ds header for 260 bucks today...i should have it soon and should be installed by friday...now i am working on other things like changing trans fluid and replacing tcc solenoid (oh that should be fun) and changing plugs

hope this postons header is good quality...and i hope it can put up with the stress of high boost on a te-44 turbo...i wonder how long the passenger side header will last? i don't think it will be quite as easy changing that one:rolleyes:
 
I just got done doing mine tonight. I swapped it out with a good one that I had. It was pretty easy. Took me a little while, just beause I was overly carefull with it.

One tip I can give is the easiest way to get the back two (towards firewall) is from underneath the car.
 
Originally posted by TurboDave
Truth be told, I've had several header repairs done, both driver's side and passenger side with none of them being clamped/mounted and haven't seen any warping occur yet. Wonder what causes others to warp :confused:
I believe a highly skilled welder will alternate across opposite sides of the welded region, and use other tricks, so as not to pull the material being welded to one side or the other due to heat. TIG vs MIG , and the welding machine setup for minimum heat (yet full penetration) probably also play a role.
 
You can mount them to a head and weld them and they will still warp all day long if not welded in an alternate method. A good welder can Tig them with minor warpage without bolting the header to anything. It is the location of starts and stops that control the warpage. If you weld something that is bolted down and you continue to stop in the same place it will look like a bananna when you unbolt it.
1. Use a gasket
2. Check and clean up the inside so you don't destroy the turbo. A good welder will clean up inside if he even goes thru.
3. Bolting it down is not the answer to preventing warpage it just helps a little.

Tim
 
I wrapped a plastic garbage bag around my brakes and A-arm assemblies so I didn't get grease all over my arms. :D
 
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