Dutweiller contact info?

[TurboDave]

Hope you guys don't mind if I start lurking around in this area for a while. I recently acquired some STGII aluminum "on-center" 4.1L blocks. New, virgin, bare blocks, and I'll need to start learning all over again.
I would like to get a hold of someone at Dutweiller's to inquire about his oiling system and hopefully a pan to go with it.

Guess I'll have to start from the bottom and work my way to the top

The oiling and intake being the biggest problems getting fitted up on these on-center's.

Now I'm going to have to move somewhere to be closer to a suitable machinist They will also need the lifter bores drilled for oil provisions.

Consider me a rooky here and tollerate my future stupid questions.

As soon as I get them in hand, I'll put pix up on my photo gallery.

 

[86brick]

Duttweiler Performance...... Phone # is (805)-659-3648.

 

[Bob Mustic]

Just wondering what your going to put your Aluminum blocks into. If its going to be turbo'd you'd better talk to Kenny as I think he'll tell you to get a steel block. I've been told repeatedly that the Aluminum blocks will not take much power. I've been looking at them for my normally aspirated Cobra but I've been warned that the aluminum blocks may not be strong enough for that project either. Personally I don't believe that they can't handle a non turbo. Let us know what Duttweiler has to say...

Bob

 

[Mac in SD]

Neither the oil pan/pump nor the manifold is that big of a deal, Dave. Get a 12AN fitting welded into a baffled 14-bolt pan and you're set there. The Duttweiler pump set-up is a bit pricey (almost $400 I think), but it goes right on a regular front cover - the hardest part is assembling AN hoses. Intake? If you're going to use TA or Champions, I don't have any direct experience, but we're only talking about .120 off on the ports and bolt holes. A little grinding, a little epoxy... Mazeltov on the blocks, too. Enjoy.

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by Bob Mustic
Just wondering what your going to put your Aluminum blocks into. If its going to be turbo'd you'd better talk to Kenny as I think he'll tell you to get a steel block. I've been told repeatedly that the Aluminum blocks will not take much power. I've been looking at them for my normally aspirated Cobra but I've been warned that the aluminum blocks may not be strong enough for that project either. Personally I don't believe that they can't handle a non turbo. Let us know what Duttweiler has to say...

Bob

Well, I would certainly hope that they would be able to handle around 700-800HP (which is more than I'm looking to make).
One is steel sleeved and the other in some kind of special Nik-A-Sil bores(supposed to be super rare). That one may not be as strong as the steel sleeved one, but you never know. Whatever I end up building has to be perfectly streetable, so nothing much over 600-700 HP for sure.
I may even dink around and try and make it smog legal (ya sure)

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by Mac in SD
Neither the oil pan/pump nor the manifold is that big of a deal, Dave. Get a 12AN fitting welded into a baffled 14-bolt pan and you're set there. The Duttweiler pump set-up is a bit pricey (almost $400 I think), but it goes right on a regular front cover - the hardest part is assembling AN hoses. Intake? If you're going to use TA or Champions, I don't have any direct experience, but we're only talking about .120 off on the ports and bolt holes. A little grinding, a little epoxy... Mazeltov on the blocks, too. Enjoy.

Thanks MAC. I'll need all the help and encouragement I can get. This is virgin territory (stg II) for me. I'll need all the help and parts I can get. Going to go pick the blocks up next weekend so I'll know more when they're in hand.

 

[Bob Mustic]

Re your:>>>> Well, I would certainly hope that they would be able to handle around 700-800HP (which is more than I'm looking to make). <<<

Just trying to pass some info along about the Aluminum motors. If I were you I'd talk directly to Duttweiler before I went ahead with what your planning. If he thinks the blocks will take that kind of horsepower than I'd procede. If he doesn't I'd be very careful about doing anything with them that involves a turbo. Please let us know what he says. Good luck...

Bob

 

[Reginald West]

I will second what Bob said. I think you should talk to kenny before you buy the blocks.I have talked to Duttweiler about AL blocks once or twice in the past and he has never been a real fan of them although he has one sitting on the floor in his shop.I think he told me that around 600 hp was all they would support.Why not wait for the TA block? I know it will cost more but eveything in the stage 2 arena costs more. according to this months Car Craft the TA block will support 3000 hp.


REG

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by Reginald West
I will second what Bob said. I think you should talk to kenny before you buy the blocks.I have talked to Duttweiler about AL blocks once or twice in the past and he has never been a real fan of them although he has one sitting on the floor in his shop.I think he told me that around 600 hp was all they would support.Why not wait for the TA block? I know it will cost more but eveything in the stage 2 arena costs more. according to this months Car Craft the TA block will support 3000 hp.


REG

Thanks, just got off the phone with him. Based on what I'm getting, he's pretty comfortable with either of them supporting 700 easilly, and 800 is possible (what the indy program was making with these same blocks).

The TA blocks would of course be the best of all deals, but $3500 for a bare block is not in my cards. I don't need/want something that can handle 1500+ HP. My goals aren't that lofty!!!

Geez, I'm making a comfortable 458HP on my BONE STOCK factory block that's got over 70,000 miles on it with NO problems what-so-ever.
Common sense dictates that a stage II indy block should easilly best that by several hundred HP (aluminum or not).

 

[JoyOf6]

Originally posted by TurboDave

Geez, I'm making a comfortable 458HP on my BONE STOCK factory block that's got over 70,000 miles on it with NO problems what-so-ever.
Common sense dictates that a stage II indy block should easilly best that by several hundred HP (aluminum or not).

Good luck with your new project. Since you "just" want 600-700 hp, then IMO the Buick Stage World will be deprived of acquiring another Marlon Brando-Apocalypse Now personality... (i.e., routinely mumbling "The Horror"). Keep us posted, eh?

Art

 

[StagedGN]

Good luck Turbo Dave and be prepared to give ur wallet a work out .I started my S2 project 2.5 yrs ago and looks like this week I will fire it up. What is the weight savings alumn compared to production block? Steve B

 

[Bob Mustic]

Steve,

I looked into the aluminum block and I believe it weighs right around 90#'s empty. The steel Stage II is 140 or so. That's one of the reasons I want to use aluminum in my Cobra when it comes time to rebuild the current Stage II steel block. However, I'm still gun shy about the strength so I'm going to order a T/A block.

Bob

 

[StagedGN]

thanks Bob.

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by StagedGN
Good luck Turbo Dave and be prepared to give ur wallet a work out .I started my S2 project 2.5 yrs ago and looks like this week I will fire it up. What is the weight savings alumn compared to production block? Steve B

I"ll let you know about the weight when I get them. One is steel sleeved, and the other is some sort of ultra exotic ALL aluminum. Kenny D. explained it all but can't remember all the details, other than the all aluminum will require some special cylinder handling because of the nik-o-sil (sp?) coating, etc.

 

[TurboDiverArt]

Originally posted by Bob Mustic
Steve,

I looked into the aluminum block and I believe it weighs right around 90#'s empty. The steel Stage II is 140 or so. That's one of the reasons I want to use aluminum in my Cobra when it comes time to rebuild the current Stage II steel block. However, I'm still gun shy about the strength so I'm going to order a T/A block.

Bob

Seems like a lot of money to save 50#? Wouldn't it be cheaper to add an additional 10 HP or shave 50 lbs somewhere else off the nose?

 

[KendallF]

Bob's car is a Cobra replica..not sure he's going to be able to shave 50# off of the nose as easily as we can with our Buicks. Now if he'd put turbos on that motor instead of that carburetor, imagine what the car would be like.

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by Bob Mustic
Steve,

I looked into the aluminum block and I believe it weighs right around 90#'s empty. The steel Stage II is 140 or so. That's one of the reasons I want to use aluminum in my Cobra when it comes time to rebuild the current Stage II steel block. However, I'm still gun shy about the strength so I'm going to order a T/A block.

Bob

What kind of HP are you looking to make? As I said earlier, after talking to Kenny D. I have no qualms about turbo'ing the aluminum StgII blocks (according to him, upwards of 700HP). Certainly 650 safely.
If the indy cars were able to make 850 HP through these same blocks, I think 650-750 should be safe. And Kenny confirmed that.

 

[TurboDiverArt]

Originally posted by KendallF
Bob's car is a Cobra replica..not sure he's going to be able to shave 50# off of the nose as easily as we can with our Buicks. Now if he'd put turbos on that motor instead of that carburetor, imagine what the car would be like.

Ahhh, didn't realize it was carbureted. Yes, I did know it was a Cobra replica so yes, shaving weight is probably tricky without spending a lot of money. Guess not as easy to just add 20 hp to a carbureted car. I don't know what I would do without that little black knob in the glove box...

Thanks for the clarification.