Dyno questions
- Thread starter TURBOV6
- Start date
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
All I can say is have the car set up with fuel for the boost and timing you will run.
It should be safer after your first run when you can look at the A/F ratio and see if you are lean or rich and at what rpm.
Start a bit conservative by 2-3 psi. on the first run and get your A/F ratio and check your fuel and boost gauges and KR gauge on the first run.
The let her rip.
PS: I would toss any tools or spare parts you might need to tweak and make adjustments in a box to have on hand.
It should be safer after your first run when you can look at the A/F ratio and see if you are lean or rich and at what rpm.
Start a bit conservative by 2-3 psi. on the first run and get your A/F ratio and check your fuel and boost gauges and KR gauge on the first run.
The let her rip.
PS: I would toss any tools or spare parts you might need to tweak and make adjustments in a box to have on hand.
BoostKillsStres
TIRE-FRYER VIA HAIR-DRYER
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
another question
With your mph I'd guess around 350HP and having it in track trim making some good hard street blasts to make sure you have minimal knock before the session is a good idea.
Wouldn't our cars make even more power if they were run in 2nd gear since most chips drop the boost back about 10% in 3rd? I guess the dyno results give you a good idea, just remember you've got even more for the competition in 1st and 2nd
With your mph I'd guess around 350HP and having it in track trim making some good hard street blasts to make sure you have minimal knock before the session is a good idea.
Wouldn't our cars make even more power if they were run in 2nd gear since most chips drop the boost back about 10% in 3rd? I guess the dyno results give you a good idea, just remember you've got even more for the competition in 1st and 2nd
BoostKillsStres
TIRE-FRYER VIA HAIR-DRYER
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
The 1:1 gear ratio thing is what I figured the reason was, I imagine there's a dyno configuration for that so another gear could be used but 3rd is a good long pull.
About the open exhaust, might want to test first as my friends mostly stock car got lean and burnt 2 electrodes when he opened up the THDP dump so you might want to add some FP to be conservative at first.
About the open exhaust, might want to test first as my friends mostly stock car got lean and burnt 2 electrodes when he opened up the THDP dump so you might want to add some FP to be conservative at first.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I would put the Nittos or BFG's on to insure traction.
They had a big block Pontiac on the dyno yesterday with a high stall converter and it blew the tires away and they didn't get a HP reading until about 60mph or so.
Only did 360HP and 429 Torque but the graph started from the top not the bottom LOL.
As for the open dump if you have a cat. definately try it. If not run the setup you know your fuel is good at. If you race open dump set the car up for that to run on the dyno.
Going lean is not fun.
I was at 13A/F on spoolup with my Maxeffort on F, full WOT fuel, and it kicks in more fuel at 4K rpm. The alky. also helped get me to 11A/F in 3rd gear which was pretty much right on according to Eric R.
We added 2 psi. f.p. for the next run. Only lost 10h.p. but A/F was much safer accross the whole rpm band.
They had a big block Pontiac on the dyno yesterday with a high stall converter and it blew the tires away and they didn't get a HP reading until about 60mph or so.
Only did 360HP and 429 Torque but the graph started from the top not the bottom LOL.
As for the open dump if you have a cat. definately try it. If not run the setup you know your fuel is good at. If you race open dump set the car up for that to run on the dyno.
Going lean is not fun.
I was at 13A/F on spoolup with my Maxeffort on F, full WOT fuel, and it kicks in more fuel at 4K rpm. The alky. also helped get me to 11A/F in 3rd gear which was pretty much right on according to Eric R.
We added 2 psi. f.p. for the next run.
Only lost 10h.p. but A/F was much safer accross the whole rpm band.BlackBeauty
Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2001
I am confused about dyno'ing our cars. Since they are automatic, how do we get a good pull in 3rd gear starting at low RPM's? Seems like if you go slowly till the car gets in D... then you need a WOT run, so if you stomp it, then the car will downshift into 2nd. How does this work? I'm sure others are curious too. Thanks.
A friend e-mail me this link http://www.dyno-jethawaii.com/ another place in Hawaii that has a dyno thats cheaper. I also has a Lambda air/fuel meter usage per vehicle
(no time limit) on screen graph for $30 more should I go with this?
(no time limit) on screen graph for $30 more should I go with this?
