E- brake launch??

[1ARUNEM]

Don't recommend the e brake launch.. Got the backing plates to prove it.. You may get away with it for a while, but it will eventually bite you.


"Oh what a tangled web we weave....."

Just remember, it will catch up with you one day..



Jimmy, i am sending you a Private Message..

 

[JRSGN]

Holy cow.
OGII,
This is getting better & better.
I've left ya 2 vm's & no call back. Call me ASAP.
Jim

 

[jnor]

What's a jumper valve?

Someone mentioned a jumper valve on a reply to the e brake launch question.
What is it?
I can't get my boost over 0-1lb with the brakes at launch.
You car walk faster than the car leaves 2.0-2,1 60', 13.20 et's 105-106mph. I'am running BFG drag radials it won't spin a tire at launch in gravel.

 

[TurboDiverArt]

Is the problem that you push through the brakes or you just don't get any spool. I assume it's you're pushing through the brakes and not a cracked header or bad converter. What have you done to the brakes? With the stock brakes in the rear (even the shoes) I was able to hold easily 5 psi. Never tried more cause the BFG DR's couldn't handle it. When I put on soft shoes and bigger wheel cylinders I could hold 14 psi cold and chickened out trying to go any higher. No real reason on my car cause there isn?t any way I'll be launching with that much boost.

 

[Boost]

Nothing wrong with an E-brake launch...

e-brake the hell out of it, stand on your brake after pumping it hard two or three time and give it hell.

When you launch just MAKE SURE that you pull the e-brake all the way out. The damage caused on your rear brakes if you "roll" your brake line can be detremental to your rr brakes and posiibly your life ! "Been there, done that", more than once, I am sorry to say. Concentrate on pulling that e-brake all the way out. Many racers tie a couple of cable ties to them to help on the "pulling" process.

 

[jnor]

Bad launch

The problem is not the brakes,it just doesn't have any low end power, I haven't tried the e-brake method yet. I must be doing something wrong, after 10' the car pulls very hard and the 105-107 mph is enought to run in the 12's with a decent 60'. The tires i'am sure are not spinning, it wouldn't spin in gravel, but still runs 13.20's all day long. 2.0-2.1 60'

 

[TurboDiverArt]

Have you inspected the headers and x-over for cracks and leaks? I know quite a few people that have been developing cracks and rot through on the stock x-over pipe. Seems 15 years may be approaching the life span of these pipes.

Sounds like you have a spooling problem to me. With a leak once you get to the desired boost level, the leak has no effect on performance, only on getting to the desired boost level.

 

[jnor]

The exhaust is new and looks good no leaks, the car has a 3" down pipe from the turbo that the previous owner put on it the rest of the exhaust is a Hooker system, there is no convertor on it.
I still think that I am doing something wrong like not letting the turbo spool up long enough. I just tried to stall it up on the street and I can get 5lb boost, but it still leaves slow.
Could the chip be causing the problem? I have a Thrasher 100 chip in it, I also have a Thrasher 116,and a 108. I run race gas at the track, but i've only tried the 100 chip.

 

[TurboDiverArt]

It certainly could be the chip, could be a lot of things. Do you have Direct Scan where you can look at the initial frames when it's leaving soft? Some other simple things to check is the turbo itself. Pop the DP from the turbo and take a look in, make sure none of the fins are chipped or missing, same with the compressor as well. The Thrasher is certainly not known for being fat on the bottom end, actually quite the opposite, the reason it spools so well. Unless you are using a really big turbo, 5 psi should certainly send you on your way without too much trouble.

What's your build up? I assume it's a stock long block with injectors and turbo swap as the basics? might be something with the combo. 106 should be in the 12's but the short time is killing you.

 

[jnor]

I bought this thing used, it's my first "turbo car". I don't have a scan tool. The previous owner recently put a new TA49 turbo on it. It has stock injectors,a 237 Bosch reg.,trans cooler,line loc,K&N filter,volt booster,160 thermostat,342 posi,BFG 235 drag radials. This thing from a roll feels like it will tear your head off and keeps pulling.

 

[TurboDiverArt]

Tough to tell when you're not sure what the computer is doing. The TA-49 is an extremely quick spooling turbo. I had one on my car for a while, initially with the stock injectors. Spooled quicker than stock with the stock injectors but had about the same pull as the stock turbo until I upped the injectors, then the thing really woke up.

Could be a converter too. If it's the stock one it's known for stalling short. If you have a tach, test out what it spools to at 5 psi of boost (the stock one is always way off). I don't remember because it was such a long time ago but I'd think that you should be able to stall up to about 2400-2600 off the brake at 5 psi of boost. Maybe someone else knows better than I do about what the stock D-5 converter should brake stall to. I know when mine was going I was only able to brake stall to about 2100-2200. Put in a 3000 stall precision and then the tires wouldn't stay put on the ground.

 

[KEVINS]

Originally posted by TurboDiverArt
I don't remember because it was such a long time ago but I'd think that you should be able to stall up to about 2400-2600 off the brake at 5 psi of boost

yep..
Mine stalls to 2520 at 5 psi according to my scanmaster..

Just a cool note: I foot brake mine to 15psi then mash the throttle. On Direct Scan it shows that the converter flashes to 3500+rpm in 0.7 seconds before the car moves. Direct Scan is cool!

ks

 

[TurboDiverArt]

jnor,

Try brake stalling your car and see where it stalls to.