I need to replace my hot/cold cable connected to the HVAC controls. It broke off at the control pivot lever. I got a replacement part from gbody, now I just need to know the easiest way to get in a replace the cable. I hope I don't need to remove the dash to do it. Below is a picture of the assembly I am trying to get to. The other picture is the cable. I have taken off the glove box, but I can't see or get to where it is connected to the HVAC unit.
Easiest Way to Replace Hot/Cold Cable
- Thread starter MCH86GN
- Start date
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Flip the glove box down and you'll be able to get at th connection. BE CAREFULL with that bellcrank. From what I have read they break easily and are EXPENSIVE to find used.
On the other end, pop the radio and heater controls out and you should be able to get to that one easier.
Mine broke in that same place too. What's the part number on that cable?
On the other end, pop the radio and heater controls out and you should be able to get to that one easier.
Mine broke in that same place too. What's the part number on that cable?
I don't know the part number of the cable. I sent a picture to gbodyparts and they sent me a used one.
What is the "bellcrank"? These pictures are just for reference they are not of my car, obviously. That is my goal, to be able to replace this cable without breaking anything else. Since I broke the cable I can't get my AC compressor to turn on. I hope I didn't break anything else. I will take pictures of the work I do. I don't use or rarely use my AC, but I just want it work because of the money I spent to convert it to over to r134a. Then I had to replace the compressor and the condenser. So I want it functional.
The bellcrank is the 90* plastic piece that the cable hooks to. It converts the cables motion into a pulling motion for the flapper door in the HVAC box.
I don't think that cable has anything to do with your A/C compressor not firing. An easy test would be to put the control on 'defrost'. I'm pretty sure thta should run the compressor no matter where the slider is.
I don't think that cable has anything to do with your A/C compressor not firing. An easy test would be to put the control on 'defrost'. I'm pretty sure thta should run the compressor no matter where the slider is.
Well, got the new/used Cold/Hot cable installed. It was actually pretty easy, once I figured out the face plate comes off for the HVAC and the unit can be removed. The end of the cable that connect to the HVAC unit tab was also snapped off. So both plastic tabs were snapped. So now that is fixed, I need to figure out what happened to my AC or rather the compressor. It is not coming on. Initially I pulled the glove box to make sure that the vacuum lines were plugged in because I could get air to blow out the vent. Then while doing this the cable tab snapped off the housing. I got a used one from gbodyparts. Now for whatever reason the AC or the compressor will turn on when the lever is moved to AC or defrost. However, now I get air to come out of the vent, for the defrost and bi-level if I wish. Compressor just doesn't engage. It is a relatively new compressor and I still have a warranty on it. However, I don't think it is the compressor I think a wire might have been pulled lose or something or maybe the switch is out. I can also hear very faintly a vacuum leak, but the compressor isn't controlled by vacuum is it? It is an electrical signal correct? Just to reiterate, the compressor was working but after sticking my hands inside trying to feel around is when it stopped working. I'll do some searching around and if all else fails I will replace the switch or try and find a known working unit.
There's an electrical plug on the AC compressor that energizes an electromagnet. That's what physically engages the compressor. Make sure that's plugged up.
There's a second switch on the round dryer attached to the heater box under the hood. That's the low pressure switch. It becomes open if there's no freon. It will keep the compressor from running to save it from self destructing.
a quick and easy test is to turn the air on max, and jump out that plug, if the compressor energized, you're either out of freon or have a bad switch. MAKE SURE to remove the jumper before you drive the car!! I heard that will cause the compressor to lock up (don't ask how I know that!)
There's a second switch on the round dryer attached to the heater box under the hood. That's the low pressure switch. It becomes open if there's no freon. It will keep the compressor from running to save it from self destructing.
a quick and easy test is to turn the air on max, and jump out that plug, if the compressor energized, you're either out of freon or have a bad switch. MAKE SURE to remove the jumper before you drive the car!! I heard that will cause the compressor to lock up (don't ask how I know that!)
I found a whole bunch of information on here. I'll double check that every thing is plugged in. So you can simply jumper the low pressure switch as a quick test? If the clutch engages then start looking else where, it is not the compressor.
I will do this quick check. I can pick up a set of gauges if need be. I also have a multimeter and probing hardware, I have clips, needle probes, etc. I can even get an o-scope if need be, I have one setting on my desk at work.
In an unrelated topic, I have my door panel off my 2002 Explorer trying to figure out a door ajar switch. Replaced the switch, still not working, so I need to start probing to figure it out.
funny you should mention that. an old lady stopped me at Piggly Wiggly sunday with a ranger... turns out her dome light wouldn't go out and the door ajar light was staying on. I noticed there was no pin switch and I figured ford had overcomplicated the latch mechanism. I had to pop the lens off and remove the bulbs.
....since you have a scope sitting on your desk, is it safe to assUme you can read flowcharts and technical data?
....since you have a scope sitting on your desk, is it safe to assUme you can read flowcharts and technical data?
Yep, I am an embedded software engineer. I use flowcharts, schematics and I am constantly probing hardware or using an in circuit debugger to track down software bugs or possible hardware issues.funny you should mention that. an old lady stopped me at Piggly Wiggly sunday with a ranger... turns out her dome light wouldn't go out and the door ajar light was staying on. I noticed there was no pin switch and I figured ford had overcomplicated the latch mechanism. I had to pop the lens off and remove the bulbs.
....since you have a scope sitting on your desk, is it safe to assUme you can read flowcharts and technical data?
I almost forgot, thank you. Getting schematics or flowcharts is generally the major battle when trying to figure out issues.
