Hello all. Been lurking here for the past 1 1/2 years and now it's my turn to join the electrical problem crowd. After 1 1/2 years and nearly 10,000 trouble free (mostly) miles of enjoyment, my current 87 GN has lost power to several fuses in fuse box. I am no expert in this department but do have the basic understanding of how it works. I've been around turbo Buicks for 30 plus years (bought a WE4 new) so I am very aware of all their quirks. Issue started two weeks ago after I noticed the volt gauge erratically bouncing between 12 and 16 volts while driving home. A few minutes later I pulled back into the driveway, shut it off and noticed the fans were still running ( they have never done that before). Turned the key back on for a few seconds and poof, lost power to several things. At this time I also noticed the dreaded faint smell of an electrical short . Popped the hood to look around and noticed that the exposed metal part of the connector to dual fans (intrepid fans I believe but not sure since I bought the car this way) ground out against the intercooler pipe. First thing I checked were the fuses, all looked good. I could find no smoked wires anywhere, under the hood or dash. Next I checked the fusible links by the starter and they looked in perfect shape as well. I then put a test light on the wires and confirmed power before and after each link. I do have power to the seats, wipers, headlights, taillights, radio, ac/heat blower fan, under hood light, interior dome light. I do not have power to the ignition, fuel pump, alky control, aftermarket gauges, blinkers, dash lights. I love driving my car, not sure where to start next and need help. Thanks in advance for any and all assistance!
Electrical short now no power to half the fuse panel
- Thread starter 1987we4
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
ScottHeidinger
Active Member
- Joined
- May 2, 2015
- Messages
- 743
Key on do you have SES light?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mikestertwo
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2006
- Messages
- 5,249
Check your "Gauges" fuse. Should be a 20 amp fuse
There is link on this site called vortex buick- there you should find the electrical schematic of the GN electrical system. Start by verifying power from each fuseable link at the fuse box. Then check power at the fuse box for each inoperative system that wont power on.
The vortex troubleshooting tree should give you good direction to solving your issue as long as you know how to use a mutilmeter.
The vortex troubleshooting tree should give you good direction to solving your issue as long as you know how to use a mutilmeter.
Thanks for the Vortex buck recommendation. Printing copies of electrical schematics now. Looks like Egyptian hieroglyphics to me but I will drill down and see if I can figure them out. 20 amp gauge fuse has been replaced for good measure with no improvements.
ScottHeidinger
Active Member
- Joined
- May 2, 2015
- Messages
- 743
If you’re sure fuse able links are good check the ECM and CCCI fuses. Have you verified the ground wire to the block is secure?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
hensleyt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2008
- Messages
- 1,555
Ok it’s been a long time,But it looks like you have power to upper 1/2 of the fuse panel,right?
The plug in the engine compartment is in two separate sections with two power feeds.and the bottom side is usually where we hookup all our add on stuff. You can take your test light and test these for power. If no power Go to drivers side find the big plug,should be a 10 mm headed bolt ,unscrew it and pull the plug and inspect it’s condition.
Be patient electrical problems are never fun.A good test light is your friend,one that will show +and - volt is even better.
The plug in the engine compartment is in two separate sections with two power feeds.and the bottom side is usually where we hookup all our add on stuff. You can take your test light and test these for power. If no power Go to drivers side find the big plug,should be a 10 mm headed bolt ,unscrew it and pull the plug and inspect it’s condition.
Be patient electrical problems are never fun.A good test light is your friend,one that will show +and - volt is even better.
hensleyt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2008
- Messages
- 1,555
I spoke to soon there are a dozen power feeds to the back of that plug,but I’m still going to start there.
ScottHeidinger
Active Member
- Joined
- May 2, 2015
- Messages
- 743
Did you check the negative battery cable going from battery to block under the turbo?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ScottHeidinger
Active Member
- Joined
- May 2, 2015
- Messages
- 743
With the key on do you have power at the ECM and CCCI fuses? Verify with test light or volt meter. Probe the empty (or used?) battery slot on the fuse panel to see if power is there.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The negative battery cable was checked and I found no issues. Checked ECM & CCCI fuses with a test light and confirmed they have no power to them in the fuse box. There is no set pattern to missing power at the fuse box. Meaning it's not isolated to just the upper half, lower half, left or right side. I'm pretty certain I probed the battery slot last night and it had no power. I will probe it again for power and report back. I did probe the extra ignition slot #1, located at the upper left, and it had power. Ignition slot # 2 does have power.
ScottHeidinger
Active Member
- Joined
- May 2, 2015
- Messages
- 743
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
salvageV6
Daily Driver
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 20,942
There are (3) IGN 1 slots and one IGN 3 slot further right of the (3) IGN 1's.
There is no IGN 2 slot.
Replace the ST BLT/ACC fuse which is 20A between the IGN 1 slots left side of the fuse panel.
You then need to test both sides of each fuse clip with the key in the ON/RUN position preferrably with the fuse out.
Report back any that have no power on either side.
Does the fan work on high speed, the fat red wire on the blower fan relay terminal D should have power on it at all times does it? It's mounted right near the blower fan passenger side under the hood near the firewall.
Most likely you cooked fusible link A which powers a lot of stuff and has (3) wires off it down at the starter area.
It shouldn't take more than an hour to test the whole fuse panel and write down the findings in detail which is needed to troubleshoot electrical problems. Pull the plastic panel off that covers it which will make for easier access.
There is no IGN 2 slot.
Replace the ST BLT/ACC fuse which is 20A between the IGN 1 slots left side of the fuse panel.
You then need to test both sides of each fuse clip with the key in the ON/RUN position preferrably with the fuse out.
Report back any that have no power on either side.
Does the fan work on high speed, the fat red wire on the blower fan relay terminal D should have power on it at all times does it? It's mounted right near the blower fan passenger side under the hood near the firewall.
Most likely you cooked fusible link A which powers a lot of stuff and has (3) wires off it down at the starter area.
It shouldn't take more than an hour to test the whole fuse panel and write down the findings in detail which is needed to troubleshoot electrical problems. Pull the plastic panel off that covers it which will make for easier access.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
- Messages
- 10,084
Sounds like a blown fusable link down by the starter.
It was a shitty place for engineers to put the fuses. It’s a lot of work to drop the starter and replace the fuses. Then if the fuse blows again, you will be pulling your hair out.
It was a shitty place for engineers to put the fuses. It’s a lot of work to drop the starter and replace the fuses. Then if the fuse blows again, you will be pulling your hair out.
turbofrank
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2002
- Messages
- 2,481
Check thick orange and black wire running up steering column for power.
Update. Checked and confirmed all speeds work on blower fan. Then checked fuse clips with key ON/RUN as suggested. Hope this helps. No power to GAUGES, ECM-IGN, all three IGN 1 slots, TURN B/U, ST BLT, ECM-SOL, FP/INJ, LPS, CCCI, CRUISE & INST LPS. Now, the CIG CLK, RADIO, PWR ACCY, STOP-HAZ, A/C, RLYS & WDO all have power to the left leg, no power to the right leg. This is with no fuse installed . With fuse installed, power shows up on both sides of fuse when probed with the test light. The PWR BRK, TAIL LP & WIPER have power to the right leg, no power to the left leg. Again, with fuse installed power shows up on both sides of fuse when probed with a test light. All BAT slots have power as well as IGN 3. Also replaced the ST BLT ACC fuse again, no love.
