Rick the pool guy
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Electrical short now no power to half the fuse panel
- Thread starter 1987we4
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salvageV6
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You have no power either into or out of the IGN switch that feeds the fuse panel. Pink wire in the IGN connectors is the output that goes to a multi Pink wire splice that feeds all the fuses that aren't working.
One of the two Red wires feeds power into the IGN switch for those dead circuits. But since one is good feeding the circuits that work, and it seems all the other fusible link A wires seem to work, horn feed etc. I'd bet on the output of the IGN switch Pink wire or at the splice up inside the harness that feeds the fuse panel.
You have to get a meter probe up into the pink wire cavity on the IGN switch connector with it in place and check for battery voltage on it, or else remove the connector and check the pink wire for continuity (ohms scale) to the fuse panel circuits that don't work. That would be a key off no power on test when using the ohms scale to check for continuity.
You got this far might as well finish the testing and narrow down the problem.
One of the two Red wires feeds power into the IGN switch for those dead circuits. But since one is good feeding the circuits that work, and it seems all the other fusible link A wires seem to work, horn feed etc. I'd bet on the output of the IGN switch Pink wire or at the splice up inside the harness that feeds the fuse panel.
You have to get a meter probe up into the pink wire cavity on the IGN switch connector with it in place and check for battery voltage on it, or else remove the connector and check the pink wire for continuity (ohms scale) to the fuse panel circuits that don't work. That would be a key off no power on test when using the ohms scale to check for continuity.
You got this far might as well finish the testing and narrow down the problem.
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The toxic old bastard I eluded to, is Turbo Lou. He's your goto guy.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
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Remove the lower panel and A/C vent and duct, 5 minutes.
Pop the long harmonica connector off the side of the steering column, slide it upwards to disengage the tabs that hold it in place on the sides of the connector.
Up above that is the 3 IGN switch connectors blue and black in the pics. below.
Dropping the column down should provide access to the connectors and the switch itself for testing. Shouldn't take more than a half hour to get access.
Pop the long harmonica connector off the side of the steering column, slide it upwards to disengage the tabs that hold it in place on the sides of the connector.
Up above that is the 3 IGN switch connectors blue and black in the pics. below.
Dropping the column down should provide access to the connectors and the switch itself for testing. Shouldn't take more than a half hour to get access.
Thanks for the photos and Instructions. You laid it out and explain it so well even I can understand it. Got some help coming soon from someone with a multimeter who’s pretty good at trouble shooting automotive electronics. Plus I printed several pages of stuff from the vortex Buick site along with the “no start” tree. Thanks again to all of you helping me out. I’ll keep everyone posted on the progress.
salvageV6
Daily Driver
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Just remember those red wires in the connectors are hot +12 right from the fusible links at the starter don't short them on any metal. Verify they are hot with the multimeter first.
I would start with only pulling the blue connector out since it has the fat pink output wire from the IGN switch that goes to the circuits not working, as well as (I'm assuming here) the fat Red wire which should feed into the IGN switch for those circuits.
I don't know how those connectors lock into place up in there so be prepared for some locking tabs etc.
Once you pull the connector out and verify there's no power on the pink wire with the meter or test lamp put the scale on low OHMS and read the Pink wire with one probe and the other to the metal tabs for the CCCI or Gages fuse, check both tabs fuse removed key off test.
If you get continuity the problem is the IGN switch contact, if there's no continuity from that pink wire to the fuse panel it's in the pink wire to the splice most likely at the splice up in the harness.
I would start with only pulling the blue connector out since it has the fat pink output wire from the IGN switch that goes to the circuits not working, as well as (I'm assuming here) the fat Red wire which should feed into the IGN switch for those circuits.
I don't know how those connectors lock into place up in there so be prepared for some locking tabs etc.
Once you pull the connector out and verify there's no power on the pink wire with the meter or test lamp put the scale on low OHMS and read the Pink wire with one probe and the other to the metal tabs for the CCCI or Gages fuse, check both tabs fuse removed key off test.
If you get continuity the problem is the IGN switch contact, if there's no continuity from that pink wire to the fuse panel it's in the pink wire to the splice most likely at the splice up in the harness.
Thanks for the tip. That would totally suck to be probing/testing then touch something metal and smoke more wires. By the way, are those under dash photos from your actual car? The stuff looks practically brand new! Along with the factory wires, mine has what appears to be speaker wires, miscellaneous accessory and alarm wires running everywhere!
salvageV6
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Yea my car, 235K miles daily driver.
She's clean on the inside kinda dirty on the outside.
You have to move those wires out of the way to get access, they have slack.
Here's another pic. of all the wiring that sits on the cheesy plastic access cover. Luckily it's not in the way of the steering column area.
Hopefully the aftermarket alarm isn't wired into those circuits on your car, that would be hard to trace and fix.
She's clean on the inside kinda dirty on the outside.
You have to move those wires out of the way to get access, they have slack.
Here's another pic. of all the wiring that sits on the cheesy plastic access cover. Luckily it's not in the way of the steering column area.
Hopefully the aftermarket alarm isn't wired into those circuits on your car, that would be hard to trace and fix.
Question for everyone. Is it possible the alarm system could cause the missing power to the fuse box? It has been mentioned a few times as a possible suspect... plus I have read plenty of stories about alarms being the source of many no starts. Any and all opinions are appreciated.
On my 1979, the engine wiring harness rubs right behind the alternator where the conduit runs back along the intake manifold. 8)
(The harness should follow from the endpoint starter to the oil pressure switch to the alternator.)
(The engine lifts during torque and shifts the harness.) Good luck though Man!
(The harness should follow from the endpoint starter to the oil pressure switch to the alternator.)
(The engine lifts during torque and shifts the harness.) Good luck though Man!
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Update: Problem fixed!! salvage6 nailed it. Turned out it was the ignition switch. It got cooked during the short. Thanks to all for giving me guidance and helping me out. I gained lots more gray hair on this one. Ended up taking it to a local GN shop that just opened right in my own town. Owner Johnathan at J6concepts is a good dude. He just texted me this morning saying it’s ready for pick up. I am a happy man and can’t wait to pick up my car and go for a nice Memorial Day cruise. Time to get ready for Buick@Bates! Hope to see you all there.
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Jerryl
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