Energy Suspension Front Control Arm Bushings

[Franks86gn]

Enery Suspension offers them in Red or Black. The Black ones are graphite impregnated and the Red ones are not. I'm primarily looking for pros and cons of having the graphite impregnation or not.

Thanks.

 

[charlief1]

Graphite is a lubricant so my guess would be that the bushings wouldn't squeek as bad. Polys have a tendancy to squeek though. If you're planning on doing the uppers and lowers then you might be better off relacing the uppers with tubular arms with greasable bushings. The tubular arms use a greasable bronze bushing in them most of the time and won't melt because of the down pipe like the stock or poly can.

 

[Franks86gn]

So the polys melt like the stock rubber? This is why I'm replacing them. Downpipe scorched the passenger upper/rear bushing.

 

[charlief1]

Loot at speedway motors part number 910-34394 L instead. All you'd need is new ball joints on them and you'll replace the entire arm and no rubber or poly. Poly is a type of plastic and if the down pipe gets hot enough it will still deteriorate but not as fast as rubber bushings.

 

[Franks86gn]

My car will be driven on the street a lot. No bushing at all? Sounds like a rough ride.

910-34394 says one is longer than the other. Is that right?

 

[charlief1]

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/IMCA-Spec-Stock-Car-Upper-Control-Arm,7241.html

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/IMCA-Approved-Spec-Stock-Car-Control-Arm,2120.html

 

[charlief1]

Bushings don't move and these are designed to move so they won't cause a ride issue. The bushings flex where these actually rotate on the shaft.

That's why I said get the 910-31394 L arm. It's the right length for a direc replacement.

 

[Franks86gn]

Thanks for the info! So which ones are the best?

 

[charlief1]

You can also get the same thing from Brian at G body parts. I believe he gets his from a different source.

 

[Franks86gn]

Why are there 2 different designs? Which ones to get? LOL

 

[charlief1]

Why are there 2 different designs? Which ones to get? LOL

There are actuall 4 or 5 different designs and subdesigns on top of that. It depends on the shaft matereal and the ball joint mount. The main thing is to get the 8.5" long ones (2) to replace the stock arms with a better unit. You've got bolt in (stock) type ball joints and screw in type ball joints which can be used as well. Not a big fan of the screw in design myself because they're a pain to remove to change them. The bolt in ones are the ones most use and you can bolt the ball joint on the top or the bottom of the arm. Top is a little safer because if the bolts holding the joints in come loose the wheel isn't going anywhere. If you bolt them on the bottom and the bolts come loose the the wheel can flop and damage things. Don't ask how I know this.

 

[sscamino]

Those are sweet, and also affordable.

 

[charlief1]

One other thing to consider is the lowers on the frint. Here's the permanant fix but you need to lube them and install them correctly.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-L-W-Steel-Lower-Control-Arm-Bushings,23550.html

For the rears you can use these and get better control of the car if you're using a stock rear sway bar. You only need 6 of these and you'll need to get the ones for the ears on the axle somewhere else.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-Rear-Control-Arm-Bushing-with-Spherical-Bushing,26242.html