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Engine Noise after rebuild

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BuickED

New Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2007
Messages
17
I just completely rebuilt my engine in my 87... new bearings, rings, pistons, valve springs etc I installed a 212/212 comp cam in it. My problem is, I started the car, after priming everything, and it had a VERY strong valve train noise. I figured it was because the lifters werentt pumped up full, so I ran the car and broke the cam in, and the noise didnt go away. So i figured, off chance I had a few collapsed lifters, So i replaced them and its still doing the same thing. I have Reds 93 chip in it, and when i look at the scanner, I have the timing at 32 degrees, I cant remember if this is normal or not. BUT i do have a code 43 showing up, im assuming it is because of the noise. I'm at a loss here, I don't know what else to look for. Any suggestions?? I pulled the valve covers and its pumping oil strong, 50 lbs of oil pressure cold, and goes to around 15-20 lbs when it gets warm. The car idles great, the little roughness from the cam, but has NO power at all... boost wont build past 5 lbs, wont even spin the tire.. I didn't want to take it for a drive incase I would damage something ... any suggestions?????
 
what do you mean you have the timing at 32 degrees is this a distributor or the cam sensor because ignition timing is in the chip
 
ITs not a roller cam

I looked on the scan took, and its saying 32 degrees adavanved timing, its whats its running at

And yep, torqued the rocker arms down to 25 lbs
 
With new cam specs, did you measure for the correct length p. rods? If so, did you set the preload correctly?
 
I called comp and they said its okay to use the stock push rods ...

what do you mean preload?


im reaching for things .. .but if the timing chain is off one tooth, would it still run on these cars? but I don't know what would make the noise....
 
Preload is

I called comp and they said its okay to use the stock push rods ...

what do you mean preload?


im reaching for things .. .but if the timing chain is off one tooth, would it still run on these cars? but I don't know what would make the noise....

the amt the lifter cup is down from the snap ring.
Preload should be checked with an adj pushrod, w/ the lifter on the base circle of the lobe. The p.rod is adjusted to zero load, then is removed, and measured. The preload distance, [.030-.050"] is added to the measured length of the rod. This total is the correct rod length.
Too short, and you have noise. Too long, and you can bend p.rods, stack valves open, create poor performance, and generally raise hell w/ the valvetrain.:eek:
Timing chain off 1 tooth would likely allow the engine to run, all be it, poorly.
You did degree this cam in, didn't you???? :biggrin:
Rockers are not hitting the valve covers are they?
 
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