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Engine won't stay running problem????

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PaulRV6

Active Member
Joined
May 25, 2001
Messages
1,656
Ok guys here is the scoop: car is on jack stands and in garage for winter.
Went to start car and it started fine, let it warm up at idle and then proceeded to revit up a few times, last time I reved it the engine stalled when I let off the throttle.
- Tried to start again and as soon as it does start it stalls. I can hear the pump prime and the pressure remains at 40 psi.
- Tried opening up throttle plate some and does the same thing, starts/stalls but popped a few times in the process.
- Disconnected IAC and tried it but did the same thing.
- Disconnected cam sensor and tried it but would not start, reconnected and started but stalled right away.
- Banged on crank sensor but did same thing. Starts and stalls
- Disconnected orange wire to ecm and tried it but same thing.
- Disconnected battery cable for a few min. but no change.

This happened a couple years ago while driving and after waiting a while it started. Not sure if it is exactly the same problem but thought I would mention.
It an '86 with not allot of high end mods, just the normal upgrades, pump, chip, injectors, etc.

Any help you can offer to what is happening would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

paul
 
Maybe the car is flooded. If the car has xylene in the tank, cold weather and it will sink to the bottom and you cant run on straight paint thinner.

Try FLOORING the car while you crank, this shuts off the injectors from pumping more fuel into the engine. If it starts to fire up, let off the gas and try to clear it out.

You cannot start the car with the cam sensor unplugged, you can unplug it once the car is running, and it goes to batch fire.

Check if the plugs are wet, if so, follow above advice.

Like turboburick said, if its a bad maf, just leave it unplugged and pull the up pipe off the t-body to see if the car starts and runs fine. If its running good, you have a bad maf.

Does it run for a few seconds and then dies? Are you sure there is gas in the tank? 40psi could be air pressure. My t-type sat outside for the summer, went to fire it up, had pressure and went thru what your going thru.

Put 10 gallons of gas and felt like a goof for it.

BW
 
Rick, it is the stock MAF. I disconnected it and the car started and did not stall. I assume with the MAF not in the system the engine will run very rich? Sure seemed like it was. I did get a check engine lite on and when I plugged it back in the car stalled.

Ok, so what do I do now? Thanks for the help.

paul
 
So will the engine run very rich with it unplugged?

What are my options for a new MAF? Do they even make them any more?

paul
 
Get a new mass air flow

BW

I second that.

May want to take this time to think about a translator and ls1 maf upgrade. That would give you a much better maf and something to adjust fuel with. Good stock maf's are hard to find. You can't trust re-mans from just anywhere. Food for thought.

It could very well be rich with no maf.
 
I have a working stock MAF in my garage. I upgraded to the LS1 MAF and translator. PM me if interested.
 
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