Everyone please read this and respond!

[mr_85regal]

Ok... ive had some change a heart... and im goin to keep my car cuz nobody wants to buy it, lol. My friend gave me a set of crager draglites.. FOR FREE! there perfect. there 15x5 fronts and 15x10 rears. the tires r ok. {they came off a 55 prostreet so thats good wear} and i am going to do up the top end on my car and do some custom exhaust work. i am goin to throw a cam in it, get a 4bbl carb and intake manifold and have my friend tim is making me headers and straight piped 2-1/2 pipe out in front of the rear wheels. no restriction! and no muffler! also wile we have the motor out were goin to put a 1800 stall converter and a shift kit in that bad boy. im my opinion i think it will haul ass! but when christmas rolls around ill get a drop kit for it and set it lower on the cragers. does everyone adgree on this? also how much is the 4bbl set up? what else will i have to change? and what is the CFM on the carb. that i need? and will it be worth it in the power gain? and will straight pipes on the 3.8 sound like shi*?

 

[Ttype83]

Here is B4Black's site with the list that you need to change to a 4bbl carb. Get Doug ROE's book and tweak the carb while you are at it.

http://home.flash.net/~rjgeorge/252V6.htm

I would go with a flowmaster muffler JMO

Is Tim going to store the car while you go in the coast guard?
Militaryman my self for the last 18 years.
I think the mods you play on doing are right on track for want you want.

 

[mr_85regal]

tim is just the metal man. its my friend chris's shop. i put off the coast guard date till next sumer. i wanna work and make some money for when i get out and reinlist and also thickin up for boot. will i pick up more money w/ flowmaster exhaust or the straight piped. i have no emission laws in Fl. Also the straight piped will be free. lol. i read in another email that im gunna have to look for a 4.1 4bbl set up. bbut do i buy the performer set up from eddlbrock cuz thats what cam im gunna get.is a 4.1 a punched out 3.8? so will it fit. and wear will i find the carb not expensive? i got bout 600 bucks to put in the cam, intake carb, gaskets and odd ends and that...

 

[Turbo-Rich]

You MIGHT have some prob.'s getting those 10" rear rims to fit. Thats pretty BIG for any G-body. I ran 8.5" Centerlines with G/60/15(265/60/15) & I had to roll the piss outta the inside fender wells to make them fit. You'll prob. need air shocks or air bags to to lift the rear end enough to make those monsters fit.
You never know tho, if the offset is right & you stay with a 10" tire or smaller they might just work.
If you want a carb. that'll wake up your BEAST get a Holley 390cfm Double Pumper. The difference WILL be night & day & it should work well with the open exhaust you plan on running. You should be able to find a used rebuildable one cheap($100 or so) but new ones are around $300 I believe. Its A LOT of "bang for the buck", & money well spent tho! I had a 350 w/a Holley 650cfm dual feed that wouldn't even spin the tires. I changed to a Holley 700cfm double pumper & was fighting to get any traction! The difference was AMAZING!! Alltho, prob. not the right carb. if your keeping your computer. You'd need to switch your ign. over to an older vac. distributor. Should be cheap to get from any junk yard, you can add lighter wieghts & weaker springs while your at it for even more performance.

 

[mr_85regal]

well i pick up the rims on friday b/c my alignment is way out from gettin run off the road that day. we woulda put them on sunday but he didnt want the skinnys upfront gettin chewed up. this week im gettin the alignment and fri putin the rims on. i think there 10's in the back. i could be wrong. there anywhere from 8-10. all he said was "i got a pair a drag lites u can have so u dont have to spend the money", "there 50 series tires in the rear". i dont really care if i have to modify the rear at all, im all for the look. since im doing up the engine now. but where i live in FL theres no junkyards around here. just a starkys, which is all used parts and i doubt id find a duble pumper there. can u maybe help and keep ur eyes open and let me know? i put out a wanted ad in the parts section and hope for a respnse. some one told me i should go w/ the kenny bell intake manifold and then buy and use the stock q-jet from the 4.1. but since i was gettin the eddel. cam i wanted to use the intake manifld too. AHH im soooo confused!

 

[Turbo-Rich]

If the rims were off a '55 Chevy they shouldn't be larger than a 8" rim unless he moved the springs inboard or cut the fenderwells out. Not much room under those'55's.
No need to get confused about engine combo. Its all really what you want. There are 100's of configurations that will make the V6 Rock-n-Roll. Go with what suits your driving style & taste the best. The Edlebrock package does look nice put together & makes good HP too for daily driving & IMO esier to tune than a Quad. or a Holley. The cheapest way to go would prob. be to find a quad. If your SERIOUS about making it a fast ¼ miler, go with the double pumper & learn to tune it. There are several good books out there on tuning Holley's.
Check this link out http://members.nbci.com/CarbedTR/smokey375_1.html
from the master himself, Smokey Yunick. More HP than you'll need but it shows the potential of the MIGHTY Buick V6.

If you do find a 4bbl. off a 4.1 in a j/y somewhere, remember, there's prob. a 4bbl. intake attached to it if you wanna keep things "on the cheap".

 

[b4black]

While free rims and tires are greart, do you really want skinny front tires for a street driven car? They might look good and help a little with striaght line performance, but you give up a tremendous amount in cornering and stopping.


A factory 4.1 intake/carb will certaibly give you the most bang-for-buck. I think a cam is good idea while you are changing the intake.



Also look into rear axle ratios. The can dramatically effect acceleration and top end speed. Just like the gears on a ten-speed bicycle.

 

[mr_85regal]

i dont mind loosing cornering b/c im not a crazy driver round corners. now w/ the stopping prob. im not worried about too. somthing is wrong w/ my brake ballance anyways. when i hit em to stop at a red light that was yellow my passanger rear tire locks up easy and then the driver side grabs too. basically the rear grabs hard too fast. i plan on changing gears once i learn what trans i had like i said on the other post. and also what my options w. rear end gears are to keep top end speed and maintain decent gas milage.

 

[Turbo-Rich]

Originally posted by mr_85regal
i . now w/ the stopping prob. im not worried about too. somthing is wrong w/ my brake ballance anyways. when i hit em to stop at a red light that was yellow my passanger rear tire locks up easy and then the driver side grabs too. basically the rear grabs hard too fast.

I'd say your rear brake cylender is bad. Its probably making the rear shoes drag some on that side & you only notice it when you brake hard. Could be air in the line too, might as well bleed 'em before you jump to conclusions since it wont cost you nothin' to do.
I wouldn't worry about the skinnies in the front. Unless your into carving hard through the corners you really won't notice that much difference from the puny 14's that came stock on most Regals. That being said, take it slow at first, no hard cornerring & remember; if you start to hydroplaine at a stop in the rain, PUMP the brakes to regain traction(duh ). They wont make it handle any BETTER, thats for sure. Learn thier characteristics & you'll be OK. I've ran skinnies w/Moroso D.S.'s through an Ill. winter before. Now that was a little tricky!

 

[b4black]

I highly suggest that you look into some suspension upgrades since you are interested in high speed. There are some cheap and VERY easy upgrades you can do. They are as important to staight line driving as to cornering.


1. Get a rear sway bar! Any is better than none. The biggest factory bar is 22mm and can be found on all Monte Carlo SS's and many Grand Prixs.
2. Get a bigger front bar (Monte SS again) and use urethane bushings.
3. New shocks. The originals are likely worn out and weren't very good to begin with. You don't need big dollar shocks. $60 can get a decent set and are easy to install.


These will keep your car from "floating" down the highway. You will be amazed at how much better in will handle all around.

 

[mr_85regal]

actually the shocks were replaced 8k ago, {6 months}. but ill keep in mind about the rea and front sway bar..uritane bushing? r u talkin bout the suspension, or the body?

 

[b4black]

Neither. There are two brackets and two endlinks for the front sway bar. All have rubber bushing that are cheap and easy to replace with polyurethane when swapping bars.

 

[mr_85regal]

i climbed under neithe last nite and looked up and inder there and found that theres no rear sway bar but there is a front. and like u said... those bushings are fallin all apart...