Everything needed to change over to factory intercooler

[T-rouble]

Ive been trying to look thru all the posts. Can someone please give me the info and parts needed or the post to change a 1985 non ic to a factory 1986 style factory intercooler setup? Thanks

 

[RUDE DOG]

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/index.php?threads/427999/
Hot air hopes are now finished look at the last post on this thread.

 

[O SO LO]

For those wanting to convert a HA car to IC here is a list of required parts and related links
(this list also in Junkyard dog donor section "sticky")

Convert HA car to IC car- Conversion parts list
All front engine accessory brackets with pulleys and belt tensioner
Complete intake with all sensors
87 ignition module, coil, and all wiring for it
87 hard metal heater lines on top of intake
87 throttle body
87 throttle cable
87 MAF with air intake tube and air box
87 detent cable
Downpipe
87 catalytic converter
Drivers side oil fill neck
Passenger side header
Passenger side valve cover with vent tube
87 transmission dipstick and tube
87 heater core
87 alternator, ac compressor, power steering pump with remote reservoir
A/C lines
87 radiator hold down
87 radiator
Oil cooler lines
Main engine wiring harness
87 fuel lines
Intercooler with all brackets
Intercooler fan
Intercooler piping
Intercooler scoop
87 air dams and deflector
87Turbo
Turbo brackets and heat shield
Turbo oil feed and return lines
Electric fans
All hardware including any nuts, bolts, or fasteners needed

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/need-help-85-87-conversion.250756

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/ha-ic-conversion-parts-list-help.318759

 

[Dave 85' GN]

Holy Shit......Better be looking for a rear ended GN and buy it.

 

[sy1322]

I did it this way, and worked out fine not to expensive

 

[sy1322]

What do you think T-rouble

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

it's about 4 grand to do correctly with a fmic. Of course I go to the stupid extreme with 4" cai, another ported intake, new caspers harness, new rjc pulleys, new power steering pump, alternator, 75mm plenum, TB, 3" DP. It's an investment into the 9's so I can stop wasting money.

 

[SloGN]

it's about 4 grand to do correctly with a fmic. Of course I go to the stupid extreme with 4" cai, another ported intake, new caspers harness, new rjc pulleys, new power steering pump, alternator, 75mm plenum, TB, 3" DP. It's an investment into the 9's so I can stop wasting money.

Well Toby If 9's are your goal then your correct about having to ditch the HA set-up to the I/C set up for the ease of more power that intercooling can give.

But from what you had stated about wanting to make the Swap for reliability... I don't get that because you have already done changed everything on the car that give trouble... The biggest difference in your current set-up VS a I/C set-up of the same caliber build minus the I/C is the Turbo.

So with that said I wish you the best of luck on the swap and the goal of 9's .....

BTW going 9's ain't Cheap.......

 

[Wahoo]

Easier to work on too intercooler over hot air. But with the cost being so much to convert id rather go LS but thats one of the most hated things to do lol

But at least ive owned a car that was LS powered so i have first hand experience knowing how awesome it was.

 

[SloGN]

Easier to work on too intercooler over hot air. But with the cost being so much to convert id rather go LS but thats one of the most hated things to do lol

But at least ive owned a car that was LS powered so i have first hand experience knowing how awesome it was.

only if it has a front mount.......

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

man the only thing I was wanting t k

Well Toby If 9's are your goal then your correct about having to ditch the HA set-up to the I/C set up for the ease of more power that intercooling can give.

But from what you had stated about wanting to make the Swap for reliability... I don't get that because you have already done changed everything on the car that give trouble... The biggest difference in your current set-up VS a I/C set-up of the same caliber build minus the I/C is the Turbo.

So with that said I wish you the best of luck on the swap and the goal of 9's .....

BTW going 9's ain't Cheap.......

I have learned that the charge of the air temps will make a HUGE difference. I am concerned with having nearly 5k in my rotating assembly that I am one good knock from poking holes in the pistons. I see what the air temps did when I had 130* versus 168* and its a huge difference in performance. No KR at 130*, all kinds at 168* and it was true KR. If I get an efficient IC, which I am and also spray alky......?? If I can have an IC making that charge 30* or better over ambient I should be in good shape. So that covers the air charge temps

The turbo and its parts will be a hell of alot easier to deal with. I blew carbon seals for no apparent reason. I have to send the turbo off to have carbon seals breaking for no apparent reason. Dynamic seals are a hell of alot easier to deal with

The tune will be easier to achieve versus having to change when the wind blows in the opposite direction.

Now....with my points on reliability on all the above this puts me in a really good spot to achieve a high 9 goal which is good enough for me...and now can truly enjoy the car.

 

[esinger]

So Toby, you’ve figured out reliable 9’s. And there I was thinking school was out.

Best of luck with that.

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

Figured out? Lol...no.... goal? Yes...

 

[esinger]

You'll definitely have the admiration of a whole lot of TR owners with that goal

 

[Wahoo]

Is your drivetrain going to he able to handle 9 second power?

I cant see sigs.

 

[Toby_Goodmk]

it's questionable. Probably will get upgraded as well. Currently stage 1 with rear end girdled. Drive shaft no issues, has an alum dynotech.

 

[NorCalTurbos]

I did it this way, and worked out fine not to expensive

How much shipped to 94590... Lol nice tho I'm gonna pm you when I'm ready to do mine