extreme lifter pump up?

[ThikStik]

Well, i had top of motor off for years thanks to un-believable luck with heads. Soon , i may mention a name....Anyway, i knew my comps were noisy and almost sprung for some Morels. Lifters start out ok with just sewing machine noise, but after long warm up, 1 lifter seems more moisy than others. I got 2 great punches out of car...then , anything above 3200 rpm, it craps itself. It needs to run awhile before it craps out. The way it rolls over , it is similiar to fuel starvation, its not, and it even has popped in the intake. No knock, and good o2's . The question, could it be the one noisy lifter pumping up? Ive never seen it happen at such low rpm. Can yall describe any similiar experiences with what seems to be pump up?
Thanks

 

[QUIP'6']

Well, i had top of motor off for years thanks to un-believable luck with heads. Soon , i may mention a name....Anyway, i knew my comps were noisy and almost sprung for some Morels. Lifters start out ok with just sewing machine noise, but after long warm up, 1 lifter seems more moisy than others. I got 2 great punches out of car...then , anything above 3200 rpm, it craps itself. It needs to run awhile before it craps out. The way it rolls over , it is similiar to fuel starvation, its not, and it even has popped in the intake. No knock, and good o2's . The question, could it be the one noisy lifter pumping up? Ive never seen it happen at such low rpm. Can yall describe any similiar experiences with what seems to be pump up?
Thanks

sounds like springs have an issue

 

[Chuck Leeper]

If it pumps up, it's not going to be loose and make the noise you describe. It may, depending on the cup location,[preload], cause the valve to stay off the seat, resulting in possible back fire, miss. [backing thru intake is likely an intake valve hanging, or it's lean.]
As mentioned.. valve springs. Are they installed at the correct hgt?

"but after long warm up,"....Could be the coil pak/module is failing once warm.

Fuel psi is?
Oil psi is?

 

[ThikStik]

Spent all night driving it ...started getting worse. Opened hood to make sure fuel pr line was still connected, etc. Darn vac brake booster check valve was cracked wide open...when does that ever happen! Did it fix it...nope. It only drove alittle better with cracking up now just limited to higher boost. 50 miles later it lit the cel with code 42 and more cracking up. I believe its not valve problem because i can give it hi rpm unloaded w/o pump up. Yes, sure does sound like ign problem.
line off fp =45. And that is an issue because it varies by 3psi. Can set it cold and its down by 3psi after running alittle. I also have T+ set to rich and wot timing set to pull timing just to be safe. WOT o2s have been hi 880-910, some low K to none at wot.
Thanks

 

[QUIP'6']

Spent all night driving it ...started getting worse. Opened hood to make sure fuel pr line was still connected, etc. Darn vac brake booster check valve was cracked wide open...when does that ever happen! Did it fix it...nope. It only drove alittle better with cracking up now just limited to higher boost. 50 miles later it lit the cel with code 42 and more cracking up. I believe its not valve problem because i can give it hi rpm unloaded w/o pump up. Yes, sure does sound like ign problem.
line off fp =45. And that is an issue because it varies by 3psi. Can set it cold and its down by 3psi after running alittle. I also have T+ set to rich and wot timing set to pull timing just to be safe. WOT o2s have been hi 880-910, some low K to none at wot.
Thanks

ignition module was my other problem. car would lay over at topend like the gas was shut off

 

[ThikStik]

I put on my oe ign module, checked coil, ohmed out wires, found 1 plug that was alittle dark around electrode. Nothing will fix it, very consistant pop in intake at boost. The Waccamole game is in full swing as usual. Back to wearing car out just test driving.

 

[ThikStik]

Chuck , oil psi is 20 at idle.

 

[QUIP'6']

i am wondering if you popped a head gasket because of the check valve cracked wide open. the ticking you hear could be an exhaust leak.

 

[ThikStik]

I pulled a plug that was brownish and thought , oh god, that was the same cylinder that had popped a hg twice. Well, it was the plug that had been in that exact cyl before head change. I checked compression on that side...ok. Car runs perfect until about 10 psi. Its so crazy to find all that i have and problem just keeps on, especially a module that coded and of course...no change. I know o2 sensor can cause pops...this one isnt too old and reads quickly. I also will check for a leak at the egr block off plate, it seems to be of poor design meaning it doesnt puch down hard enough at top.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Have you checked the wheel in the cam sensor? Sounds like your tab is broke.

RJC sells a fix.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

FP is 45... What is it @ 10# boost?

"line off fp =45. And that is an issue because it varies by 3psi. Can set it cold and its down by 3psi after running alittle". Could be the pump is going away. Works til it gets warmed up.

 

[bison]

What lift, what springs, what installed height? To determine if its the lifters pumping up which i dont see how it can be set them at zero pre-load and re-test. Then you are running them like a solid lifter and pump up wont matter.

 

[ThikStik]

re cam sensor-There was an issue before it was parked 3.5 years ago. The tab was broken and i rebent/reinstalled and determined that "rotor" wouldnt move. Car ran no better/worse as the "rotor" hadnt started to clock. Will look at it and recheck-thanks.

FP-Exactly C...It will cold start at 45psi , then drop by 3-4 psi. I have set it alittle higher cold to let it settle higher. Its an early Walbro , and like i said car sat for 3.5 years. The leak down is bad as after key off, it leaks down within 10 minutes...also did this new. Boost referencing, it is the billet reg, did check that before the long sit -up, but not since running. O2's have been on rich side, but still should check. Thanks

Cam-Its 206/210 517/517 roller from FTP by Comp-Yuck. So the lifters are very noisy with 1 predominantly so. Beehive springs that came with it with blue stripe. pn 1052691872. I did run HS rockers this time 1:6 so that has me wondering if the crap lifters may be rebelling at the higher lift levers. Installed height....i hope its right..probably isnt as i had heads sent off to NC to be done and it has been a bad experience. My oe uncut virginal heads were never again seen when they left my house!!!
I can run engine to around 5k rpm , engine unloaded, and no missing happens. Only with loaded, boosted time does it pop. Thanks.

Otherwise, i changed all plugs, o2 sensor, checked for leaking egr. thanks

 

[ThikStik]

Checked cam sensor ring...cant move it , so fine there. Drove, terrible popping. Gonna spray electronic cleaner on T+circuit board. A few small drops of brake fluid got on it. Starting to think valve lifter again, but dont know for sure if load/unloaded engine matters, or if pump up is only affected with rpm.
Has anyone taken their gn to an Excorcist?!!!
Ill just have to tell this one thing...there are many. My cat was around front bumper looking back and under car focused like a lazer...coudnt faze his stare. He was growling mad and did this for 50 minutes. I tried waiting him out thinking a mouse /rat was there, even tho that woudnt have made him mad. I got light to try to find something. Then under car to try and break his stare and he NEVER looked at me, just looked at the diff w/o moving. There was never an explanation!

 

[ThikStik]

Cleaned the T+ circuit board...no more pop, but alot of K. Dont know how much but it set of caspers whistle. That may be from latest tank of gas. You never know what you got here. I wonder what the conductivity of brake fluid is. It was very tiny droplets that got wiped immediately. I know it pulls in moisture.

 

[ThikStik]

Popping is still there , only more mild. Scannning the maf counts at wot has me wondering...the amounts never max out, they=91. I forgot , but does T+ half the maf counts as scanned? thanks