factory alarm module

[turbo39151]

Anyone have the GM part number for the factory alarm module? Can't seem to locate it.

 

[turbofish38]

Try GM part number 16158276.

 

[turbo39151]

Is this the same thing as the starter interrupt?

 

[turbofish38]

It should be. The book says circuit interrupt for a description.

 

[turbo39151]

$154.00 from the local stealership . As low as $80 online. Is there a cheaper source I'm not aware of?

 

[turbofish38]

You can always try the boneyards. That module was used on a lot of Cadillacs in the 80's. I see them turn up from time to time. Just look for the anti-theft labels on the door glass. The RPO code on the SPID label will read UA6. They are located in the steering column area and are a heck of a lot easier to get to than the one on a TR.

 

[turbo39151]

I'm heading to the yards tomorrow!

 

[rodman99999]

There's a "starter interrupt relay" that is mounted separately, and triggered by the "theft deterrent controller(alarm module)." Follow the light blue wire from the module to the relay(on our cars).

 

[turbo39151]

To my understanding the theft deterrent controller is the larger module that controls a host of other options like lights and horn. I tested all of the options linked with the system and they all work. Thus, I'm inclined to beleive that the controller is good. Am I mistaken?

 

[rodman99999]

You never stated what the problem is. If the car isn't starting: it could very well be the "interrupt relay." If that's the case: jump the purple/wht and purple wires that are going to it(to one another), and the car should start. The module doesn't interrupt power to anything but the starter(through that relay when activated), so- testing the horn and lights is not an indicator as to whether it's still functioning.

 

[Jerryl]

Interesting info for all of us to know.
Also good info for car thieves.

 

[turbo39151]

This car is such pain electrically, I don't noe how thieves would be able to work them in a hurry...

Anyway, there is no power to the starter. Starter is good, solenoid is good, battery is good, everything is fine...


I was going to jump wires but I don't want to cut wires or disable the alarm. It's nice to have the honking noise to scare off would be thieves...

 

[rodman99999]

This car is such pain electrically, I don't noe how thieves would be able to work them in a hurry...

Anyway, there is no power to the starter. Starter is good, solenoid is good, battery is good, everything is fine...


I was going to jump wires but I don't want to cut wires or disable the alarm. It's nice to have the honking noise to scare off would be thieves...

Pull the plug off the relay, and jump the wires there. No need to cut anything.

 

[turbo39151]

Ok here's what's happening so far.

1. I pulled the starter and put new solenoid. -Did not work.

2. I pulled starter and put back old solenoid and bench tested it and it worked fine.

3. Put old units back on the car checked all my wires- - Did not work

4. Ran a "Jumper from battery to "s" (with and without the red wire attached that is nomally attached) on the Starter and registered 12.5 v- This did not start the car.

5. "jumped" purple wires at the plug- DID not work.

6. Replaced module where purple wires are located.

Summary:

Starter is good.
Solenoid is good or not (don't know anymore)
I have constant power and ground but no switched power and even jumped I get "nada"

I can't unerstand what the hell is up with this car. Ideas?

 

[rodman99999]

Hook your voltmeter up between the purple/wht lead at the "starter interrupt relay" plug, and a good ground. Turn the ignition key to "start". If you don't have 12V there: either the fusible link is blown, or your ignition switch is bad. If you have 12V there: check the wiring between the relay and the starter solenoid(the purple wire from the relay to the starter). You have to get 12V to the starter solenoid to engage the bendix, and crank the starter. If you're getting 12V to the purple wire at the starter, and nothing's happening: your solenoid is bad.

 

[turbofish38]

You can always try the boneyards. That module was used on a lot of Cadillacs in the 80's. I see them turn up from time to time. Just look for the anti-theft labels on the door glass. The RPO code on the SPID label will read UA6. They are located in the steering column area and are a heck of a lot easier to get to than the one on a TR.

I just scored a module and relay Sunday. Got them out of a 89 Fleetwood. Might I suggest getting both parts. On a TR the relay is easy to get to. The module is a lot harder. Maybe do a little parts swapping before you start probing. The only reason I say that is because the relay was attached to the module on this particular Caddy. Two 7mm headed bolts and a snip of the wires and I had probally 3 minutes invested getting them.