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final word on rim screws for slicks and soap for sealing.

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jbaker

Member
Joined
May 26, 2001
Messages
296
i've searched and read most posts here on the subject.
what is the final conclusion on the need for screws and soaping the inside of the tire to keep the air from leaking out.
i will be running no less than 14 lbs psi for stability reasons
and running mickey thompson 28x9x15 dragsand no tubes.
2800 stall (flash to 3400) 4.10 gear and 400 ftlbs at the crank.


thanks jerome baker
 
soap seems to work......if the tire is turning, use screws...if you have tubes, use screws for sure
 
thanks woody.
i have recieved conflicting info locally on the screw issue.
i dont have a problem drilling the rims. and will index the tire and rim for reference. just was hoping to not drill if not reqd , at my power level. i am somewhat concerned about running the screws
into the wire thats inside the bead.

thanks jb
 
I use 4 screws per side (but I have tubes)

if you get a good bead seal, you'll prolly be fine with no screws

have seen cars go low 1.4x with no tubes or screws
 
Lemon Joy dishwashing liquid. Coat EVERY square inch of the inside just before you mount and inflate the tire. My Hoosier have always held air well using this method.

Dwight
 
I gotta disagree about the soap. All dishwashing detergent liquids contain alcohol. The alky attacks the rubber in your tire and dries it out.
 
The screws should never be long enough to damage the tire or tube. If you must have screws (I doubt you'll need them at your power level, unless something is amiss) get proper screws (e.g. Moroso, Mr. Gasket).

The reason you don't want to spin a tire when you have a tube is you'll tear the tube up - the tube if stationary due to the valve projecting through the wheel. I have never used tubes. The sole purpose of tubes is air retention.

Green Palmolive is the best at sealing the tire. And no, it doesn't ruin the tire. The GP trick is as old as the hills. Concentrate on the sidewalls, that's where most leakage occurs - pinholes develop as the slick gets abused over its life. Use two coats, let it dry between coats, and do not get it on the bead, where it could promote slippage.

If you don't mind airing up your slicks religiously, don't bother with tubes or GP...
 
I used to have to add air to mine while still at the track because they leaked so bad. This got old. Stupid slicks would go flat on the trailer when traveling too. When I washed the car you could watch the sidewalls foam up from the air bleeding through. I've never heard of using dish soap to seal them, I just bought tubes and now never have to air them up. When a new season starts they still have the same air pressure as when I last used them.

I didn't want to put screws in the wheels, though, incase I ever wanted to use them for street tires. So I did as my buddy did and glued them to the rim with 3M weather strip adhesive. I've watched the tire changer guy make faces wondering why the tire is so hard to get off the rim and they held through many, many launches, even 1.5's one night. Of course, I'm only running 110 mph but my buddy that told me about this has run a best of 10.1 @ 134 mph and it holds for him. I can't say it will always work, just that it has for us so far.
 
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