Finally broke down old block, suggestions needed please

[6SENSE]

Today I broke down the block that I used to have in my car about a year ago, before it developed a knock.
Only sign of damage I could find was on the #1 rod journal. The rest of the crank looked good. I will have it looked at to verify. I wonder if I can use oversized bearings on just that one or do I need to have all turned? Dont know if .010 will clean it up or more is needed. Surface looks rough compared to the smoothness of the others. Weird, I think the bearings were moving around. The tabs on them that fit in the grooves on the rod and cap were gone.

Block is already .030 over and cylinders look good. Dont feel any ridge at top of cylinders, should be able to just hone them. Pistons are TRW forged and should still be fine. Rods looked good too. I will get 2nd opinions though. What rings do I need to get? Any special type? What about bearings? Or can I just get the rering kit from somewhere like Northern Auto Parts ($135) which comes with rings, rod/main bearings, and gasket set?

Had 204/214 SpeedPro (sealed power/federal mogul) cam. Didnt have very many miles on it at all before I pulled the block. Worked fine, idled great. There is a bit of surface rust in a couple spots now. Im still not the greatest at reading a bad cam so I will have it looked at. Dont know if it is actually starting to pit or not. Im kind of hoping that the cam is still good (not looking forward to breaking in another Buick cam). If it isnt good, Leeo already recommended the 208/224 Schneider. Does anyone know where to get this cam and how much does it cost? Any other cam suggestions? Didnt really get a good chance to see what I could do with the 204/214, maybe I just get another? [WANT TO BE ABLE TO MOVE SOME AIR ]

I have a Rollmaster double roller chain that I will use also. Very few miles on it also when the motor came out.

Shouldnt need a girdle but would like to at least get the 2 center steel main caps. Where is the best place to get them? Should I worry about the front one too? Is there machining that has to be done for these aftermarket caps? I want the block to be strong, since I dont know what the future will bring as far as performance. Im definately shooting for low 12s high 11s when this block goes in, probably on pump gas/alky inj (we'll see).

I will use the heads that are on the stock block that is in my car now. Already ported, 3angle valve job, 980 comp springs.

SORRY SO LONG; I know its alot of questions, but I know some of you have already been through this or have put some thought into this stuff already. I should be able to get this going pretty soon, since Im putting it together myself and have most of the parts already. The stuff I do need other than maybe the main caps are not expensive and the machine shop work that needs to be done is pretty cheap stuff (mostly just cleaning and checking, cam bearings, freeze plugs, etc).
I am anxious to swap this block into my combo. Im thinking the bigger cam and larger bore will complement the head porting and intake and wake the car up, as opposed to the std cam and bore which I think is kind of mis-matched with all the other performance stuff on top of it. Should be able to get some air moving
ANY SUGGESTIONS OR COMMENTS ARE MUCH APPRECIATED

 

[6SENSE]

Also: looking at the lifter valley I see that the previous owner of this block already had things worked and smoothed out a bit. I know this was a rough spot on our blocks as opposed to the 109 blocks.

Oil pressure was always great with this block, even when it had the knock.

 

[racemybuick]

Ok...I can only really speak on a couple things, but what I do know is...It is all a matter of how fast you are going to go. I am told that the 50's from MSD are great, but cost the same as the 65's. If you feel like going faster than what the 50's get ya, then think about having to tear down the intake again and again... consider this, you can always tune injectors down....I am personally considering the 65's, on recommendation from a very knowledgable gentleman in the field.

As per a cam...Call DAVE WEBER!!! I have never heard so many success stories out of any machine shop, but if Lee Thompson uses this guy, then he has to be damn good. the cam is a custom grind 216/216. If you want, he also fabricates a front cover with the cam button attached for the easier install. He can give you all the details under the sun, better than I can...Here is his #: 440-327-7702. He's extremely knowledgable, and tell him what you want..he'll tell you what you need!

As per the crank...do one, do em all! A machinist will tell you most often, do all the journals, not one...if one failed, there had to be cause. That cause may affect the rest of your motor in time. Good luck, and hopefully one day, my car will be finished, and instead of deciding on combo's, you and I can be deciding what lane we want to line up in!

John

 

[Lee Thompson]

ideas

Is your crank standard/standard? If so, have it turned .010 on the rods only. Tell the shop to leave it on the BIG side. There are limits when turning a crank. There is a small limit and a large limit. As an example (.24999---.25199) Not any exact # just an example. This will make for tighter bearing clearance. If turned on the small side then the only way to tighten up the clearance is to have the bearings coated. As for the tabs gone--The bearing spun!!! meaning ALL THE RODS will need to be resized. Sounds as if you block is GOOD-- hone and reuse with the fordged pistons. As for rings, I like Total Seal gapless TOP rings. What ever ring you use make sure it is a quality ring and for a turbo application. Order the rings .005 over size and file to fit. IMO I would be leary of some of these KITS as they are usually CHEAP!! E-mail me about bearings as I can help with a price on a good hard, quality bearing.
If you cam has PITS on the top of the lobes---BAD!!! Also check the ramps, there should be FISH EYES on each side of the ramp. This means the lifters were spinning, as they should. Over the weekend I will try to find Schineder # altho the Speed Pro has been doing well for lots of people. I never tried one only the 208-224. I believe Jamie has this cam in her HOTROD. Best of Luck.

 

[turbo6x2]

this is the one I run now the Schnieder, However the cam before that was the weber 206/206 and I loved it as well. Just stepped up on a recommendation from a really good friend. ESP performance sells these if you want to go through them. Dave Weber is an excellent source and I would recommend him hands down as well.

 

[turbobooster]

was just wondering can i through on that 216/216 cam on my stock block wit 3 inch downpipe?

 

[WFO]

Originally posted by turbobooster
was just wondering can i through on that 216/216 cam on my stock block wit 3 inch downpipe?

Sure...prolly have a little more effect with some porting to go with it,but certainly won't hurt.

 

[turbobooster]

now is that just porting on the heads or r u talkin g about the intake as well ?

 

[WFO]

I'd gasket match all of it.