I hope your pics here show just greased up crank pulley removal problem and NOT aligment of crank key to cam gear dot that you going to use with the chain later ?
The pictures are just of my problem of getting the crank off. Thanks though
Finding dead center
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The pictures are just of my problem of getting the crank off. Thanks though
Also from your pictures...
I don't know what timing set you're going with, but your stock style chain tensioner is...uhmm...gone. Where is it?Chewed up over the years????
Anyway. if you're using a stock style timing set, you might want to to put a new tensioner on there. If you're going with an aftermarket set (like a double roller) that isn't a flat backed chain, then you can leave the tensioner out of the setup.
I actually found the tensioner pad on the rim of the oil pan when I took off the timing cover!
I think it was torn off as the teeth of the cam gear broke off, along with the extra slack in the chain.
Got a new tensioner
Thanks for the info, that's what I needed to know.
Do I need to remove the rockers completely??? And is there anyway to check for damages to the internals since the cam gear rotated free of the crank?
The timing chain must have been slipping around the cam gear while I was trying to start the car and diagnose the problem. Half the teeth were worn down and broken at the bottom of the oil pan. So, I am unsure if there was damages caused from me doing that!!!
RmvBfrFlght
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For the rockers, loosen the shaft bolts and set the shaft/rockers assembly aside. No need to further disassemble them.
What can be done to check for bent valves is a compression test. Will need to re-assemble most of the engine to do this: chain, timing cover, oil pump, rocker shaft assemblies. Can leave the damper off.
RemoveBeforeFlight
challengermike
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while we are on the rocker talk,Are there shims under the rocker shafts?mine had some and i put them back in,i figured the heads were shaved.
stickybones
What?
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Hmmmm
The 4 long ones go thru the water pump as well as the front cover.
The 2 with the stud heads go on the very bottom; one on each side.
The short one goes in the recess by the oil pump.
I think the others are kinda obvious based on their length (some have to go thru the "thick" area around the water inlet and outlet).
Remember to put thread sealer on all them except for the bottom 2 that don't go into the water passages.
Remember that that crank sensor goes with the 1st and 2nd ones from the bottom on the driver's side.
The 4 long ones go thru the water pump as well as the front cover.
The 2 with the stud heads go on the very bottom; one on each side.
The short one goes in the recess by the oil pump.
I think the others are kinda obvious based on their length (some have to go thru the "thick" area around the water inlet and outlet).
Remember to put thread sealer on all them except for the bottom 2 that don't go into the water passages.
Remember that that crank sensor goes with the 1st and 2nd ones from the bottom on the driver's side.
k, thanks, I will try to look at them again today to see if I can figure it out. I know one of the longer bolts went in behind the water pump inlet b/c the water pump had to be removed to take the bolt out
