fine tuning ideas for PAC kit?

[JDSfastGN]

I just got my turbotweak alky chip and could not be happier right now with how the car is running. Only real problem is a very light throttle with my little 44 and 3200 stall i can make a lot of boost under very little throttle, i get a surge and sometimes a buck when the alky hits around 7 psi or so.(it did this on my street chip i was running as well, its a lot better with the turbotweak chip) At WOT all the way down to 1/2 throttle its perfect though. I really dont want to change the initial voltage, should I lower my fuel pressure further? I am running 42 psi right now line off. The BLMs at idle and cruise (they were before alky as well) sit around 110-115. I will be making a few track passes tommorow night, so I will be able to see what changes affect what. So far im running 23.5 psi (rod is maxed out) 23* timing with no knock at all. The blue gain knob is only at the 10 oclock posistion or so (not to the halfway point) Would it be benificial to increase this even though im not seeing knock (i know all cars will respond differently) Thanks for any tips or help.
J.D.

 

[Razor]

Your issue may be MAF related. 110 at idle means its pulling a bunch of fuel, or in other words its rich.

Try and lean out the translator idle setting and see if that cures it. Another thing to try is a stock GM maf if you have access to it.. I had a car a week ago that had a bucking at lower boost.. swapped in an OEM MAF.. problem was gone.

You want to run as much alcohol and as little fuel. The more alky, the less it will knock. If its not knocking.. thats great. Now lean the curve and report back.

One thing you may also try is raise the turnon to like 8 PSI and see if that helps.

Tho first start by getting your idle BLM's in the 120's..

HTH

PS, you can also call

 

[JDSfastGN]

Originally posted by Razor
Your issue may be MAF related. 110 at idle means its pulling a bunch of fuel, or in other words its rich.

Try and lean out the translator idle setting and see if that cures it. Another thing to try is a stock GM maf if you have access to it.. I had a car a week ago that had a bucking at lower boost.. swapped in an OEM MAF.. problem was gone.

You want to run as much alcohol and as little fuel. The more alky, the less it will knock. If its not knocking.. thats great. Now lean the curve and report back.

One thing you may also try is raise the turnon to like 8 PSI and see if that helps.

Tho first start by getting your idle BLM's in the 120's..

HTH

PS, you can also call

Thanks Julio, ill play with MAF and see if i can get the BLMs up into the 120s. I may give you a call later tommorow or this weekend, i haven't because where we live and tune (just moved out in the country) I don't get reliable cell phone service. I'll report back my findings tommorow and also post up the track times. It feels very strong, even more so than it did on 112 Hopefully with the cooler temps tommorow i can see some 11.30s

 

[Razor]

Remember you can put the chip into prog mode and bump the timing at the track. Shoot for top end O2's in the 770-780 range and watch your MPH pickup.

Target 25 MPH from 1/8-1/4

 

[pacecarta]

ive got similar issues with the 50s and tt alky chip.
not surge as the alky comes in (knob at 12:00) its nearly unnoticed and boost comes in really strong and with the .82 exhaust housing at 40-43 mph the power is now causing traction issues

its the BLM thats got me , fp at 43 and blms keep rushing down to 110-113 and not just in first cell but across the blm grid on directscan , I have no clue why but appears to be chip program and they drop on decell it seems . could it be the blocked EGR from powerplate ??

had no problems at all with the 30lb inj no PP ,stock turbo and tt alky chip , blms were always at 126-128.

lots of info on cure for high but none for low blms , and at first i assumed the same thing fp too high ,but it was at 43 and dropping back even to 37 didnt have much if any affect

i think Im going to give the translator /lti maf a shot.

 

[Razor]

Just wanted to add, the last three weeks i've been chasing a drivability issue with my ME-r setup.. ended up being my fuel pressure guage was off 4 PSI too high.

So 43 was actually 39.

Low BL's are typically injector or MAF related.

Borrow a stocker from someone...

 

[JDSfastGN]

Well I got my BLMs up to 123-4 or so, i feel kinda dumb, for some reason my TPS has dropped since the last time i set it, it was at .38 at idle and adjusting it back up to .42 raised them back up. They still drop near 113 or so at very light throttle below 30 mph, but anything else and its in the 120s. I tried playing with the translator but it didn't like the 1 step leaner setting. I also increased my alky (haven't gotten to test it yet) a bit as we had a cold snap last night and my boost was higher at 25 psi this morning, no knock but 02s were in the .720 range at the top of 3rd gear. It feels real strong, ill post my times later tonight. Thanks guys

 

[HellOnWheels]

...the same for meth?

You want to run as much alcohol and as little fuel. The more alky, the less it will knock.


PS, you can also call [/B][/QUOTE]



Julio,
Does that apply to methanol also????

 

[JDSfastGN]

ummm yeah.... just wasn't my night at the track, lifted the heads and blew both headgaskets. Looked like a 100 mph john force burnout. I shut it off and coasted the second i saw the smoke. Its my own fault, i hadn't seen any knock all day long testing it, but at the track i fumbled around with my toggle switch for my TC lockup and was really late in hitting it,(should have just let off) this was my first run and i was still on my 17" wheels so my ET wasn't gonna be anything special. I guess when i hit the TC switch at that far into third it spiked the boost up to 27 and the gaskets and heads just couldn't take it Live and learn. Still saw only 1 degree of knock, but I'm my scan tool updates pretty slow. Didn't matter anyways since the heads lifted. On a positive note, i did trap my best ever in the 1/8 mile. Heres the slip

60: 1.879
330:000
1/8:7.596
mph: 95.60
1000:9.843
1/4: 11.876
mph: 104.35

My best 1/8 before was a 7.28 at only 94 or so and that was on my pass in the sig. Hopefully it will be only headgaskets, motor is coming out tommorow as im not doing this one in the car

 

[Razor]

Think you put the car on "Kill" mode and had an issue.

That 1/8 mile et is definately a low 11 second pass with better traction. Had it been like a 1.55-1.60 60 foot, the 1/8 mile would have been an 7.0-7.1. Thats enough for a very low 11 second run. If not a tip into the 10's.

The car was hauling...try and figure out what cuased it..

How much boost where you running when this happened? Do you recall your O2 readings? And it is possible the gaskets may have been hurt at some other time, and now when pushed hard decided to go. Once you lift the heads, you'll know why.

Sorry to hear bout the HG's. Once you get into the mid-low 11 seconds or faster.. as Jack Cotton says.. "Things can happen really fast". My first set had gone from a bad tranny flare on the 2-3 hitting the rev-limiter at 29 PSI.

Need help with the gaskets, drop me a call.

 

[JDSfastGN]

Yeah it was my own fault, mine was similar to your story, i banged the rev limiter at the top of third and compounded the problem by hitting the TC lockup button close to the same time. It all happened so fast as described lol. I normally lock it at 85 or so, but forgot and decided to lock it a little later, well i fumbled with the switch a bit too long and by that time it was too high in the rpm, i let out but my reaction was to slow and bam went the limiter and lotsa smoke. Boost was only 24 throughout the run until the extra load was placed from the TC lockup and it spiked to 27 or so.(gonna fix this problem with a boost controler) O2s were in the 750-760 range all through the run until then when they dropped when the boost spiked. THis was only the first run, and I know i could have gotten the 1/8 mile mph high with the TC locked. I wasn't worried about ET yet, it was just my "get to know ya" type pass that i usually do before i drop the slicks on. Oh well gonna go get started pulling the motor. Thanks for the advice Julio, It may be up and running as early as this weekend hopefully.

Originally posted by Razor
Think you put the car on "Kill" mode and had an issue.

That 1/8 mile et is definately a low 11 second pass with better traction. Had it been like a 1.55-1.60 60 foot, the 1/8 mile would have been an 7.0-7.1. Thats enough for a very low 11 second run. If not a tip into the 10's.

The car was hauling...try and figure out what cuased it..

How much boost where you running when this happened? Do you recall your O2 readings? And it is possible the gaskets may have been hurt at some other time, and now when pushed hard decided to go. Once you lift the heads, you'll know why.

Sorry to hear bout the HG's. Once you get into the mid-low 11 seconds or faster.. as Jack Cotton says.. "Things can happen really fast". My first set had gone from a bad tranny flare on the 2-3 hitting the rev-limiter at 29 PSI.

Need help with the gaskets, drop me a call.

 

[JDSfastGN]

Heres the pics of the aftermath, looks like they may not have lifted, the other cylinders show no signs of being detonated at all so I'm guessing it was a pretty catastrophic problem, does anybody know what gets cut when you tag the limiter on a turbotweak chip? Spark or fuel? Just curious, hitting the limiter and the TCC just a split second before was enough to lean it out im guessing. Time for a Direct scan and EGT. The motor looks good, all the cylinderwalls are good, no loose rods, no trash in the pan other than a little headgasket. May have it running again tommorow.
http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/headgaskets5.JPG http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/headgaskets3.JPG http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/headgaskets2.JPG http://www.ls1camaro.net/freehosting/headgaskets1.JPG

 

[Razor]

ECM protects by cutting off fuel

All chips will do this.... triple check the head surfaces. If you can get them to a shop for a .001 cleaning.. and have the surfaces flash rust from being completely oil free. I use brake cleaner with white paper towels(lint free) until I rub and the towels come out clean.

Loct-tite 567 the bolt threads. Just a little. You dont want it to seep under the gaskets. And lube the heads on the bolts.

Let the loctite sit over nite to set before adding water. I havent retorqued.

Actually I have a bad #2 intake guide.. now I cant blow the gaskets

I'll keep trying...

 

[JDSfastGN]

Originally posted by Razor
ECM protects by cutting off fuel

All chips will do this.... triple check the head surfaces. If you can get them to a shop for a .001 cleaning.. and have the surfaces flash rust from being completely oil free. I use brake cleaner with white paper towels(lint free) until I rub and the towels come out clean.

Loct-tite 567 the bolt threads. Just a little. You dont want it to seep under the gaskets. And lube the heads on the bolts.

Let the loctite sit over nite to set before adding water. I havent retorqued.

Actually I have a bad #2 intake guide.. now I cant blow the gaskets

I'll keep trying...

Thanks Razor, i already got the heads and motor mostly back together, i reused my ARP 12 pt bolts, and used the 9441pt gaskets. I went and bought a new torque wrench just to make sure, (not the greatest but 30 $ same brand as the old one) I used 30 wt oil on the shaft of the bolt for less friction, chased the theads with a tap, and used the permatex teflon sealer on all the bolts, I torqued them down in 10# increments all the way to 85#. Since then I have loosened a 1/4 turn and retorqued twice and will do it one last time in the morning after sitting overnight. I didn't use loc tite, never heard of using it on the head bolts before. I prepped the block and head surface by cleaning all the gasket and crap with a razor blade, then with the finest steel wool 000 grade, just to make sure everything was off. Last i used some alcohol and brake cleaner to make sure there was no oil or residue on either surface. Hopefully they will take the abuse. School starts this week so I'll have to get the motor in and running next weekend. Thanks for the help razor and everybody. Razor I'll definatly be calling ya for some tuning advice on the alky when its up and running again.

 

[Razor]

The loc-tite is a thread sealant. A bit better than the permatex.

Its ok..next time