Florida Selling my 2nd 1987 WE4 runs and drives project


Active Member
Ok guys I give up. We are at the 29th day of April and I spent a total of 16 days in the hospital with 6 separate asthma attack incidents all stemming from restoring this car’s peeling clear coat because it was left in a carport for 20 years by the original owner. I bought it from the original owner. Yes I have every single document that came with the car. Including the window sticker, original dealership bill of sale, pre delivery inspection document, and every service receipt from day one.

My days are getting filled with doctor appointments and tests so I respectfully request that you don’t contact me unless you are serious about buying this project and have 10 grand really to go. I only ask this because I don’t have the time to answer a bunch of questions that I most likely don’t know the answer to. Basically please read everything and if you’re interested then please come and see it. If you’re looking for a project I mean this is a no brainer because I already bought just about everything you need to finish this. All you really need are your skilled hands. I have this engine running like a top. No leaks that I know of. Brand new vacuum brake conversion. All stock parts are laying in the trunk included.

I bought this car last June. It was the car that I wanted to make into an 11 second car because my original WE4 has too much family value to me to do anything to other then Alky. So anyway I bought this car which sat in a car port by the original owner for literally 20 years because the original owner dealership said the fuel pump died and when his private mechanic couldn’t get it to start after replacing the fuel pump. He just put the car in the shelf and moved into a 95 impala. Long story short I figured out the ecu was the problem not giving a signal to fire the fuel pump.

So I bought it. Made a copy of the original 1987 title and got me registration and title. Once I got it in my storage unit I figured I’d get it to start up and if I like what I hear I would go from there. So round one I replaced the following with brand new parts installed.
-brand new fuel tank and filler neck
-Walbro 255 fuel pump (Genuine walbro pump. Not a knock off)
-new soft high pressure fuel feed and return lines at the tank.
-new stock fuel filter
-blew out the hard fuel lines (they were clean because the fuel pump never moved any fuel in the lines because it was the ecu. So nothing was contaminated other then the old fuel tank.
-new 30lb fuel injectors and tt 5.7 chip.
-new spark plugs ac Delco
-new AutoZone spark plug wires (lifetime warranty)
-new AutoZone coil pack (lifetime warranty)
-new AutoZone ignition module (lifetime warranty)
-complete spring cleaning done
-new battery (12 month warranty)
-Rebuilt advance auto parts ECU (lifetime warranty)

After that the car started right up and ran excellent. Transmission shifts perfectly through all 4 gears.

So I moved onto round 2

-dropped and cleaned out the oil pan and pickup which was actually spotless other then 3 nylon timing cog teeth.

-replaced stock Camshaft with comp cams 260/260 flat tappet Camshaft

-replaced lifters with comp cans lifters (yes the good ones with the hardened bottom)

-replaced pushrods with comp cams pushrod kit

-Replaced valve springs with comp cams 980 kit

-Replaced valve retainers with comp cams 742 kit

-Replaced seals with comp cams 502 kit

-Replaced valve locks with comp cams 601 kit

-replaced timing chain with Erson double roller timing kit

-replaced timing cover with a TA timing cover with high volume oil pump with EB porting mod. Yes I measured the pump clearance and lash and made sure everything was well within spec. Packed it with petroleum jelly.

-pioneer roller cam button

-cover and everything sealed and installed with fel pro gaskets and the right stuff (no I didn’t use silicone sealer around the oil gallery holes)

-cleaned and installed the intake manifold using a fel pro valley pan intake manifold gasket which sealed perfectly.

-all gaskets replaced with fel pro gaskets all the way up to the dog house and TB gaskets.

-All new vacuum lines
-new Pcv
-turbo replaced with a 35k stock turbo.
-new AutoZone radiator from an 89 turbo trans am. Oil cooler sandwich plate and lines removed for now. They will be included in the sale.

-cam was properly broken in by running the engine at 2k rpm with comp cams break in oil with no turbo and the oil feed capped off so I could get all the oil pressure up to the Camshaft for break in. Then after breaking in the engine and changing the oil the turbo was installed and oil feed and return lines were installed.

-oil was changed again and I decided to make a habitat of always using comp cams break in oil additive.

-the engine is running excellent. No knock under boost, and Block lean stays at 128. Engine sounds great. No overheating all hoses and everything that carries fluid or vacuum was replaced. The engine is great and ready to run.

-brand new Delco alternator
-transmission cooler lines are hooked up to the radiator.

Ok round 3
-black powdercoated stock rims
-brand new (no name brand) stock size tires.
-new lug nuts
-new brake calipers
New brake pads
-new vacuum brake booster
-new vacuum brake master cylinder
-brakes work but still need a good bleed.

Ok now the body needs to be sanded, spots need to be filled not because of rust but because some areas just need it.

The interior is shot. But I literally bought just about everything new.
All needs to be installed like
-seat covers
-headliner molding
-brand new in box full floorboard (even tho only the rear drivers side needs attention. I bought the entire floor board) needs to be installed.
- new carpet
And I have every piece of weatherstripping, window sweeps, trunk weatherstripping.

Brand new trunk lid installed
Kirban reproduced RPO sticker
Led taillights already installed but need to be wired up.
Comes with new alky control kit
Scanmaster 2.1
And a bunch of other things that I will remember over the next few days.

Basically I started sanding the exterior so I could get it ready for paint and the damage I did to my already diseased lungs has taken time off my lifespan and I literally have to stop restoration because it kills me. That is the only reason why I’m selling it

10k firm cash only. The only trade I would be interested in is the following bike in the link plus $2500 cash from you.

Come with 10k and a trailer and take it all. Or buy this bike for whatever price u can get it for and bring it to me with the clean title and $2500 firm. And take it all home.

Yes the car has under carriage rust. That’s why it’s a project. And comes with a full floorboard.

Must be picked up in Daytona Beach Florida 32114. That bike im interested in is about an hour away from me. Who know maybe you can get the bike at a discount and Save yourself some money. As long as you bring me that bike and 2500 cash it’s yours. I’ll give it a week up here before I throw it up on eBay.
Remember it’s a project so please don’t expect a show car. It’s priced very fair and I’m taking a huge loss.


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I would be willing to come down to $9,500 cash or $2500 cash with that bike seen in the Craigslist ad above. Now is your chance because that seller just came down to $6,900 for his bike. It definitely won’t last at that price.
Also included in the sale are the following parts uninstalled

-Art Carr 3100 stall 9” non lockup torque converter
-non lockup transmission oil pump valve
-Turbonetics 6266 dual Ball bearing turbo. Mint condition zero shaft play. (I gave my word to the seller of this before I knew that I needed a lot more mods before I could use it. So it’s been sitting in my living room since)
-new no name brand downpipe 3” with external wastegate dump.
-6 used wiseco 20over pistons with pins mic’Ed within spec
-6 used stock rods
-used turbo crankshaft (unknown journal spec)
3-GN Delco radios (power up)
-1 extra 8.5 posi unit
-set of Manley stock head valves within spec
-2 gauge pillar pod
-2 gauge console pod

I’m sure I have more parts but this is all I can think of right now.

I feel it’s priced fairly but will listed to cash offers via pm. Serious buyers only plz


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Wow, there's a lot of car and parts here and if I hadn't just bought a Syclone I would have to consider this. I believe that one day the We4s will get the love they deserve but until then we remain ignored among the ignored, by that I mean anything that's initials don't start with GN.

I was wondering if you could answer one question for me if you would. Where did you get and/or what brand are the seat covers you have? The reason I ask is that I need covers for my car too and every one I've seen, including the one's you have, have the wrong color piping. I don't know if the dark piping is a We4 only thing but all the aftermarket sellers that I have talked to who swear there stuff is correct with the light gray piping, don't seem to care that I point out that they're wrong. You can see by the cars original seats the piping is different. Anyway, I would like to know where those came from so I can mark those off my list if I haven't already.

Thanks and GLWS
PDI seats
Price temporarily dropped to $9,000 if the car is taken from my storage unit before May 5th after that I have to pay another month.
TTT 2 days left to come with a trailer and get the best deal you will ever see on this. After April 5th I need to pay another $300 for May storage. After that the race for a quick sale is over.
Sorry for the short notice
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Hey man, the craigslist ad for the 1000 RR was most likely a sham (its flagged for removal). But, nice choice in bikes as that thing has been a contender ever since it hit the streets what like ten years ago now. With the latest iteration being up to 200'sh hp now, I think? Anyways, just thought you should know the bike link doesn't work anymore.

Just have a few questions, since the car is running and driving without issue, then why is it still in storage?

And when you say it comes with a full floor pan and that there is under carriage rust, how bad is the rust?

I mean, do you have any pics to show the extent of the rust and what all needs to be replaced?

It’s in storage because I started sanding the car as soon in the pics and the only garage space I have holds my other WE4. It’s been in this storage unit since June 2018 when I bought it. And when I bought it it was no where near running. I did the whole top end with new everything down to the cam lifters and springs. I put a ton of money and by myself hard work into this car to get it running and driving again as it sat in a carport for 20+ years.
As far as the rust underneath goes I’m not sure how water got in the car but I’m assuming the rear windshield seal which I bought a new one. As well as all now weatherstripping for every single seal. But I didn’t install any of it yet because I wanted to get the body sanded and primed so I could send it out for paint. But my health is preventing me from going any further on it because of the dust. Before I got sick I sanded away all of the surface rust on the rear frame, diff, and control arms. And treated everything with black anti rust treatment I forgot the name of it but it was expensive.
Bottom line the rust on the frame is surface rust and comes off with a wire burst mounted on a angle grinder. I was doing as much resto as any single person could do in a small storage unit with lights and power. Till I got sick. But the car is a project and is in no way ready for the road. Plus I cut the insurance on it so I cannot Park it on the street. That’s why she is still in storage. Unfortunately it will just stay there till it sells or we move to California next year and my family can help me finish it.

And I should clear this up. Yes it runs and drives very nicely but the brakes still have some air in the system that I cannot bleed out by myself. It stops on a dime but the pedal is still spongy. So it’s not a car you’re gunna drive home. Plus the tail lights need to be wired up as they are the new led lights but I will probably do that if nobody buys it by the time I pay the storage bill for May.

As for the s1000rr yes I own a 2014 s1000rr and it’s literally the best bike I’ve ever ridden in 30 years of riding plus it’s the safest. And it’s not a scam he had that ad running for a month. It didn’t get Flagged till I posted it here.
But it’s still for sale and I would definitely take it in trade.

I have videos of the scanmaster readings on cold and warm idle with a few revs that I will post tonight and I will try to drive it outside and take a walk around video and host that as well. I’m 99% sure that it won’t sell before the 6th so I’m gonna wind up paying for May storage so no rush to sell anymore.
Cold start up
Warm engine

Sorry guys for neglecting your requests for more pics and videos. My health is preventing me from doing a lot that I use to do just 2 months ago.