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Flying the white flag. I surrender

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Cometics (3 layers) and Hylomar spray here. No leaks. I even reused them. Still no leaks.
 
Cometics (3 layers) and Hylomar spray here. No leaks. I even reused them. Still no leaks.

Jerry, when you reused them did you just re spray the outside faces or take the layers apart?
 
Took them apart, cleaned with brake clean, resprayed, reinstalled.


What oil are you using?
 
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I run Cometics on my 340 stroker dry and never a leak.

I'm running Valvoline 10w 40 dino with zinc additive
 
Try a quart bottle of lucas oil stop leak and run strait 40 weight. It stop 90% of my cosmetics leaking. I still notice a little seapage on the block after a hard run.
 
Like I mentioned earlier I read about that working. Just wasn't sure what the Lucas stop leak did exactly? Does it swell the rubber seals or have some sort of reaction to air? I was afraid to try it.
 
I'm not sure what's in the Lucas. I don't see where it could hurt a motor. It slowed my rear main seal leak on my last motor. It lasted 3 years and I just decided to freshen it up while I painted the car last winter
 
I didn't read the whole thing and this may be a dumb suggestion. Maybe the bolts are too long and they're bottoming out before pulling down properly???
Ask me how I know!?!?!?!?!?
 
I didn't read the whole thing and this may be a dumb suggestion. Maybe the bolts are too long and they're bottoming out before pulling down properly???
Ask me how I know!?!?!?!?!?
Possibility. Happened to me.
 
Now there's something I would have never thought could happen. I got my heads and bolts from Nick so if it's what he uses I can probably rule that out unless ARP bolt are inconsistent in length?

My block has been decked twice so there's a variable (using .045 HG's) if it's possible to bottom a bolt out at the front and back of the motor. Is it wise to add a washer and re torque? Them back bolts are a pain to get at with the motor in the car and how in the world would you ever get a proper TQ reading doing it that way.
 
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