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Found my no spart problem

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fly89gta

New Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2001
Messages
1,062
Found my no spark/no injector pulse problem

The cam sensor drive broke, which explained my sudden loss of oil pressure before the car shut off

now here's my question, if that gear was starting to go for sometime could that be thowing my timing off, and causing me to run rich and run like crap?

Also, I know a crank sensor has a lot do with a no spark no inj. pulse problem but we replaced that, the ign. module and the ECM, nothing, the cam sensor is NOT spinning, pulling the sensor drive tomorrow, if that goes does that explain the no spark no inj. pulse problem?
 
Cam Sensor

Cam sensor tells the ECM when the number one piston is at TDC on compression. Crank sensor can recognize TDC, but doesn't know about the valves, so cam sensor is necessary for proper spark. Timing is controlled by the ECM, so slight changes in cam sensor won't affect timing. If the cam sensor is off by sixty degrees, then spark will be off by one cylinder, but it doesn't change continuously, a few degrees at a time, so the bad cam sensor drive wouldn't explain the other problems.
I may have this wrong, and if so, I'm sure I will quickly hear about it!!
 
well, that roller pin on the gear drive is the culprit, the ****er broke in 5 pieces, one of which jammed the oil pump, yeah this is gonna be a REAL fun day :mad:
 
Cam sensor??

If the car was running and just died, there would be other causes than the cam sensor.
The cam sensor can be unplugged AFTER the engine is running and the engine will continue to run. Once you have shut the engine off w/ the sensor unplugged, [or failed], the engine will not restart.
So, if you shut the engine off when you saw the "no oil pressure" problem, [due, most likely to the pump not being driven because the pin in the dr gear sheared], then it would not restart.

One other scenario could be, if you did not kill the engine w/ the key, that the fuel pump relay is not working, and the pump is being triggered by the oil pressure sensor switch below the turbo.[It closes at about 4-5psi of cranking oil pressure.] Thus when the oil pressure failed, that switch opened and the fuel pump quit, resulting in the engine shutting off. Finding the cam sensor not turning could lead one to think the engine died due to the sensor taking a dump.

Lastly, I would SURELY take a look at the bearings before I run this engine again.. You may have been lucky enuf to have the FP relay bad and the relay bypass sw cut the engine off B4 damage.. Knowing MURPHY as I do, most folks aren't that lucky...:eek: :eek:

I would also check the FP relay and see if it is working. Triggering the pump w/ the bypass sw. will cause extended periods of cranking time in order to get the oil press up far enuf to start the engine.
As for the sensor timing, IF the sensor is installed 180* out of time, the engine will start, but not run well, as the injection timing is out. If the sensor is off from the 180 out or correct position, then the engine could/will backfire and not start at all.
You can review the install procedure at: www.gnttype@gnttype.org
 
the car ran about 1.5 seconds without pressure, and i was doing about 6mph, i think the bearings will be fine...it makes sense now, the pin broke, jammed the pump, stopped the pressure and the FP cut off, that theory works for me hahaha
 
>>Cam sensor tells the ECM when the number one piston is at TDC on compression. Crank sensor can recognize TDC, but doesn't know about the valves, so cam sensor is necessary for proper spark. <<

This isn't true. Cam sensor is strictly there for fuel sequence timing, not spark timing. During sequential operation, the ECM needs the cam sensor signal to initiate it. It has nothing to do with spark sequence...that's the crank sensor's job. Once the engine starts, ECM spark advance tables take over.

Also, there is no provision to shut the engine down when oil pressure drops. The switch is there only to duplicate the fuel pump relay contacts in the event the relay fails. If the engine quit, it may be because the cam sensor "slipped", causing an improper sync to the fuel, stalling the engine.
-John Spina
http://www.casperselectronics.com
 
With the shear pin broken off of the gear, the oil pump will stop spinning...The gear may still be spinning, but the oil pump won't spin...I don't see how the bits of the pin could get into your oil pump...

I had the same thing happen to me...But I was using a cheaper aftermarket timing cover that misaligned the cam sensor/oil pump to the camshaft gear...It was in a bind and sheared the pin, chewed up the cam sensor drive assembly, and stalled the car while I was trying to do the cam break-in procedure on a new cam!!!

So, yes, the car will stall when that shear pin breaks...It's happened to me...

BTW, figure out why your shear pin broke...If you don't, it will happen again...It broke for a reason...
 
yeah, gonna try to find why it broke...that worries me :(


but does it makes sense that i'm getting no spark and no injector pulse with that broken?
 
Originally posted by GNVenom
>>Cam sensor tells the ECM when the number one piston is at TDC on compression. Crank sensor can recognize TDC, but doesn't know about the valves, so cam sensor is necessary for proper spark. <<

This isn't true. Cam sensor is strictly there for fuel sequence timing, not spark timing. During sequential operation, the ECM needs the cam sensor signal to initiate it. It has nothing to do with spark sequence...that's the crank sensor's job. Once the engine starts, ECM spark advance tables take over.

Also, there is no provision to shut the engine down when oil pressure drops. The switch is there only to duplicate the fuel pump relay contacts in the event the relay fails. If the engine quit, it may be because the cam sensor "slipped", causing an improper sync to the fuel, stalling the engine.
-John Spina
http://www.casperselectronics.com


Oh Geez, I hate doing this, but I gotta call ya on this one John. I know you're the electronics expert on these cars but, here's how I've seen it explained:

I've bolded the section that is particularly interesting about how the cam sensor plays into the spark game:

The DIS system used in the Turbo Buicks is a 3x system, meaning that 3 reference pulses occur from the crank sensor for every crankshaft revolution. These reference pulses occur 120 crank degrees apart, with 60 degrees between the rising and falling edge. The falling edge of the crank signal occurs exactly 70 degrees BTDC, meaning the rising edge will occur exactly 10 degrees BTDC.

There are two modes of operation, bypass and Electronic Spark Timing (EST). Bypass mode is used during cranking and in limp-home operation. In bypass mode the coil dwell time is defaulted to 60 degrees, as the coil begins charging on the falling edge of the 3x signal and fires on the rising edge. Therefore spark advance in bypass is always defaulted to 10 degrees BTDC, a reasonable number for cranking and limp-home operation. Fuel delivery during cranking is batch mode instead of sequential. Once RPM reaches 400, the system switches to sequential fuel delivery and EST mode, where spark advance and dwell are controlled by the ECM. In EST mode, spark advance is triggered on the falling edge of the crank sensor. Basically, the EST software algorithm looks at desired spark advance and RPM and computes the length of time from the crank sensor falling edge (knowing that this falling edge is at 70 degrees BTDC) that would be required to “wait” in order that spark delivery occurs at that desired spark advance. Additionally, the start if injection occurs on the falling edge of the crank signal as well. Therefore it is obvious that the crank sensor alone is responsible for ignition and injector timing. However, it is also evident that the 3x trigger wheel mounted on the harmonic balancer must be positioned correctly; likewise, the balancer must be keyed correctly – if either was off, the crank sensor rising and falling edges would no longer occur when they should, therefore causing ignition and fuel delivery timing to be inaccurate. Although I haven’t seen it, I have heard reports of some balancers having these problems.

So, what use is the cam sensor you ask? Well, if you only had this uniformly spaced crank sensor signal, you would never be able to tell exactly which cylinder each crank pulse corresponds to. This is where the cam signal is needed, as it occurs once every two crankshaft revs, that is, once every six crank signals. The cam sensor should be adjusted so that the falling edge occurs at 25 degrees ATDC of cylinder #1. Now we are able to sync each crank pulse to its respective cylinder, because after detecting a high to low transition of the cam signal, the ECM knows that the next hi-lo transition of the crank signal will be cylinder #6, which will be the first cylinder to fire. Thus, it’s evident that adjusting the cam sensor so that the falling edge no longer arrives at 25 degrees ATDC does absolutely nothing, until it is adjusted so far off spec that the next low going crank signal is no longer cylinder #6, but #1 or #5. The problem is that the ECM still thinks that pulse should be #6, and it will fire the 3-6 coil right in the middle of the intake stroke.

The cam sensor resyncs every 2 crank revolutions. If you happen to lose the cam signal while the engine is running, a malf code will set, and the system operation will default to simultaneous double fire operation instead, but the engine will remain running until you shut it off. Once you kill the engine, you will not be able to restart.

Ever wonder why cranking times vary so much from start to start? It all depends on how the cam sensor is positioned when the engine finally stops after a key-down. If it stops immediately before the cam sensor transition, then the next start-up will be very quick as everything can sync up in less than ½ a crankshaft rev. However, if the engine stops after the cam sensor transition, a full two engine revs may be required before everything is able to sync.

Now, it is very possible (and often happens) to install the cam sensor 180 degrees out of phase and still have a running car! It makes no difference to the ignition system that the cam sensor is 180 out, since it’s a waste spark system. You’re still firing the same coil pack - from the ignition standpoint if the cam sensor is 180 out there’s absolutely no difference as the current still runs out the same terminal, thru one plug from center electrode to ground electrode, thru the block and back from the ground electrode to the center electrode on the other plug and returns to the other coil terminal. This pattern occurs the same way regardless of whether the cylinder is under compression or exhaust. The plug that fires the “usual” way does this every compression and exhaust stroke, and the plug firing “backwards” always fires backwards on its compression and exhaust stroke.

What changes is the fueling. With the cam sensor 180 out you’ll fuel the cylinder on the wrong stroke, and the fuel will sit around puddling on a hot intake valve for 1 engine rev until the valve opens and it’s pulled(forced) in.
 
Gittin it strait!!

Dave, thanx for the explanation! I've printed it and it's in the "black book" for future reference!!:cool:
I said:

The cam sensor can be unplugged AFTER the engine is running and the engine will continue to run. Once you have shut the engine off w/ the sensor unplugged, [or failed], the engine will not restart.
So, if you shut the engine off when you saw the "no oil pressure" problem, [due, most likely to the pump not being driven because the pin in the dr gear sheared], then it would not restart.

One other scenario could be, if you did not kill the engine w/ the key, that the fuel pump relay is not working, and the pump is being triggered by the oil pressure sensor switch below the turbo.[It closes at about 4-5psi of cranking oil pressure.] Thus when the oil pressure failed, that switch opened and the fuel pump quit, resulting in the engine shutting off. Finding the cam sensor not turning could lead one to think the engine died due to the sensor taking a dump.

Would the second paragraph above be correct? [in that there are likely ALOT of these cars that run on the oil bypass pressure switch and the owner doesn't realize it??]

I agree w/ John that there is no OEM oil pressure shutdown for safety reasons.
How far off am I in my assumptions???..:confused: :confused:
 
Well done Dave! Yes, during startup, the CCCI sets the "tone" with default spark timing, but the spark won't happen *until* the cam signal is there. That's why the car will run without the cam signal - after - the initial cam signal is present. The cam signal sync's the whole operation of the sequential spark. If the cam sensor is out of adjustment, just like you said, the fuel will either puddle at the valve (advanced) or show up too late (retarded) which gives you that gulp of lag during deceleration. Of course, that's all assuming you're using the stock cam. I believe all bets are off with the 25deg. setting once you swap your cam with an aftermarket cam.
Basically, the crank sensor sets the dwell and sequence for spark, and since it's three coils instead of six, that explains the waste spark and three interrupters on the ring. So, that leaves the cam sensor for fuel timing. But the module always looks for the cam signal to initiate the first spark, and only after the interrupter at the crank sends its first signal. The long crank time, that happens because the cam signal isn't always present the instant you turn the key. It may take up to two complete revolutions of the engine before the cam signal is sensed, and only then will the injectors begin to open. The engine needs to see the cam signal first, then the injectors open. During crank, ALL injectors open at once so the cylinder that needs the fuel will get it. Once the ECM takes over, it goes into sequential mode (I think it's 600 RPM threshold). Ever wonder why that puff of black smoke happens at startup? Most likely all that extra fuel being consumed.
Clear as mud eh?
-John Spina
http://www.casperselectronics.com
 
Re: Gittin it strait!!

Originally posted by Chuck Leeper


One other scenario could be, if you did not kill the engine w/ the key, that the fuel pump relay is not working, and the pump is being triggered by the oil pressure sensor switch below the turbo.[It closes at about 4-5psi of cranking oil pressure.] Thus when the oil pressure failed, that switch opened and the fuel pump quit, resulting in the engine shutting off. Finding the cam sensor not turning could lead one to think the engine died due to the sensor taking a dump.

Would the second paragraph above be correct? [in that there are likely ALOT of these cars that run on the oil bypass pressure switch and the owner doesn't realize it??]

I agree w/ John that there is no OEM oil pressure shutdown for safety reasons.
How far off am I in my assumptions???..:confused: :confused:

Well Chuck, all I can say is that I had the same situation happen to me and my motor shut down...The pin in the gear sheared while I was trying to do the cam break-in procedure, so I was running at least at 2200 rpm when the motor starting to sputter and miss real bad and then just shut down...

I know my fuel pump relay is working...Now, what happens when the screw holding the cam sensor cup gets loose and the cup stops spinning??? Will the car stall or will it run like crap??? I know something will happen, but have never had it happen to me, so I really don't know...Not trying to argue here, but just relating my experience with this same problem...

This is really a great discussion and a learning experience for many...Let's keep it going...
 
If the interrupter ring in the cam sensor comes loose, it could wreak havoc on fuel timing, especially if it moves 'occasionally' as the cam sensor shaft turns. I once designed an anti-theft device for the GN's that would put a sporadic cam signal to the ECM during its operation. The result was a horrible-running engine that would sputter, backfire and finally die. But it would stay running as long as you had your foot into the throttle. Hmmm, where have we heard this scenario before?? It would make the car run badly because every time the cam signal was put out, the fuel timing would re-initiate, spraying injectors at non-sync'ed events, causing incorrect fuel timing.

So we've established that the cam sensor keeps the sequential injection working properly and any variation to the cam signal will affect the operation of proper fueling in the engine.

-John Spina
http://www.casperselectronics.com
 
One more time??

John S. wrote:

So we've established that the cam sensor keeps the sequential injection working properly and any variation to the cam signal will affect the operation of proper fueling in the engine.

John, am I correct then, in assuming that if the cam sensor was still hooked up and it stopped turning, [either the rotor or the entire shaft assy], that the signal would become incorrectly timed, and the engine would not run correctly, or die??

Help me out here!!
:confused: :confused:
 
Scenario 1: Car starts, then the cam sensor somehow stops turning. Car runs, SES light comes on, engine is now in multiport mode (all injectors open simultaneously). Car idles badly, wants to die, but will still run. Actually, at WOT, the engine will run pretty much normally, especially if your injectors go static anyway.

Scenario 2: Cam sensor doesn't see a signal during startup. Engine won't start, period.

Scenario 3: Cam sensor is not timed correctly, maybe 180 degrees out of time. Car starts, sometimes with difficulty, and seems to run improperly. Again, at WOT, it runs almost normally, but driveability and part-throttle performance is terrible, causing the "bogs" and occasional backfire, particularly after the car is idiling for extended periods of time.

In all the above cases, the fuel timing is affected. Spark timing does not play into any of these scenarios - strictly fuel timing.

I designed a plug-in module called the CamFix module, that plugs into the cam sensor connection. It is designed to put a false cam signal to the ECM, only the first four seconds during cranking, so that if for some reason the cam sensor fails, the car will still start. It is the only way your engine will be able to start if the cam sensor goes bad. Kind of a safety net. Here is the item:

http://www.casperselectronics.com/c...cgi?search_request_button=yes&keywords=102076

Hope this explains something...
-John Spina
http://www.casperselectronics.com
 
Well I have to let you know that the cam sensor did in fact cause my car to die cruising on the freeway at about 70 MPH...it bucked a couple of times...backfired then shut down...of course it wouldn't start back up...I found out after a tow that the screw holding the interrupter ring came loose...I never even thought of checking the cam sensor because I had always heard and read that the cam sensor can't cause the car to die...it definitely can...
 
Under that scenario, yep, it would kill the engine because at 70MPH, the engine freewheels when you release the throttle, causing it to idle down, then die. If you were in say, 2nd. gear, the engine might stay running for a bit longer.
-John Spina
http://www.casperselectronics.com

PS The CamFix would've saved you...from a tow anyway.
 
Well actually if I had even thought it might be the cam sensor I could have fixed it in about a minute...which is how long it took once I got it home and figured it out...but I was under the impression that there was no way the cam sensor could cause the engine to die which is what I've heard and read over the years...mis-information did me in...I do have the CamFix now...
 
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