Found out what went wrong

[Hiwinds]

Well I finaly tore into the motor and found some things I didnt like.

First when I pulled the heads off number 3 cylinder h/g was u shaped and it looks like 2 & 4 have been leaking.

Then I pulled the front cover off to find the timing chain tensoner(spelling) was broke into three pieces and the plastic piece was in about 100 pieces.

Then pulled the pan and found the spring and the rest of the tensoner. The oil pick up had a bunch of stuff stuck in it.

Pulled the main caps loose to find the thrust bearing was messed up bad. Guess that would explain the in and out play in the crank. The thrust bearing was gone far enough to let the crank rub the main cap.


Soooo on to the questions.
1. Sence I am going to have to replace the crank do I go with the billit stock replacement or the stroker?
2. How much difference is there in the two in respects to building power.
3. Is it worth it for a daily driver.
4. what is a good roller cam that has a chopy idle to it.
The car is a tta and I would like to get into the middle 10's with the build

 

[Grumpy]

I smell a $$$ pit brewing :biggrin: can you just turn the crank ??

 

[Razor]

Mid 10's and daily driver.. I smell cubic dollars. Ask me how I know

That motor was already rebuilt once?

IMHO, Rebuild it stock... run 11's.. have fun. Putting a 4500 dollar bottom end doesnt guarantee anything. As the guarantee revolves around a lot of other issues. You'll easily hit 3500 on a good stock rebuild.

Grumpy is rite.. typically :wink:

 

[89ICBM]

The Grump-miester and Razor give good advice but I would suggest a few things. Get the stock replacement Eagle crank, forget about the stroker or a stock billet unless you are building a true race car. Turning the crank is ok at a 10/10 but I just don't trust a 20/20. Replace the timing gears with a good set like Progear, Rollmaster or Cloyes, no need for the tensioner. The stock rods will be fine but pistons are another issue. If you can get by with just a honing job on yer cylinders and there's no damage to the pistons yer cool with re-using what you have whether it's actually the stock stuff or not. If the machine shop recommends a bore (which is quite normal) on yer cylinders, yer talking new pistons so go with what they recommend (as long as they are a forged aluminum). As far as the cam goes, don't worry about the sound, get something that's going to suit yer needs. Even a 218/218 roller doesn't have the sound of a really big cam but it will take a car into the 9's. I would suggest talking to some folks like Pearcy, Armstrong or the folks at Percision about what would work well for what yer building.

 

[Hiwinds]

Yes the motor was built before I bought it. It haad trw pistons and an atr g roller cam. The heads have been worked over pretty good. I dont think the crank can be turned. Also why would it be so hard to build a mid 10 sec street car. When there are stock motors in the same area. Just trying to learn. The trans is there. There isnt that much differance between the tta and my syclone. Actuly the tta should be a lot easier to get into the 10's Hel my truck hasnt even haad the valve covers off and I am shooting for 10.9x with it.

 

[89ICBM]

[Hiwinds]Yes the motor was built before I bought it. It haad trw pistons and an atr g roller cam. The heads have been worked over pretty good. I dont think the crank can be turned. Also why would it be so hard to build a mid 10 sec street car.



I don't think anybody said it was hard, what they said was it's expensive. Most of the folks that respond to a post like yours is thinking that yer car is stock and you want to build it up so they advise sticking with the stock set up to save money and still run in the 11's. Hey! If you have the dollars and want to play, go for it. Here's a few things to think about; don't try to compare that 4 wheel drive truck to a car. That truck will out 60 ft a TTA all day long and that's where the et comes from. 2nd, Murphy's law. Runnin 10's is a lot different than just takin off the cat, changin to an adjustable fp regulator and an adjustable waste gate. A stock block can do it but yer rollin thu dice and what can go wrong, will go wrong. So! More dollars for preventive measures (which is part of what Razor was eluding to) then comes larger turbos, injectors, special chips, maf translater, larger ic, so on and so on. Show me thu money! Um! Just tryin to help.

 

[Hiwinds]

Runnin 10's is a lot different than just takin off the cat, changin to an adjustable fp regulator and an adjustable waste gate. A stock block can do it but yer rollin thu dice and what can go wrong, will go wrong. So! More dollars for preventive measures (which is part of what Razor was eluding to) then comes larger turbos, injectors, special chips, maf translater, larger ic, so on and so on. Show me thu money! Um! Just tryin to help.



Ok I see. Well lets see I already have gt61, 50#inj., extender chip, Tplus, 3400l/u stall, transbrake, Billit center main caps, d/s, scanmaster,yada,yada,yada.

I understand about rolling the dice. I run 26psi from a pt61 into my stock 134,000 mile syclone. And have been doing it for atleast a year now. So whats the big deal? If you tune it good it will live. If I can make the week little 4.3 live as long as it has I dont belive it will be a problem with a 109.

I am asking what parts do I need to buy to reach my goal the easiest Not trying to be talked out of it because it wont happen.

 

[Razor]

Issue stems from engine management, transmission, turbo, IC, rear end, driveshaft, etc.

On street car to hit 10.50's you need over 130 MPH trap speed. On a heavy azz TTA.. you'll need to make some serious power. That 61 aint gonna cut it. More like a 70 GTQ, 3600 NL, 218/218 roller minimum, fully ported heads, girdle, steel crank, aftermarket rods, forged pistons, etc..

Build a high 9 second sec TSM motor.. you'll run mid 10's on a TTA. Easy.

HTH

 

[Hiwinds]

Thats what I was looking for.