Found the problem...

[Lunkan]

Guess I have a fault that is broken...

At last I got my hands on a compression tester that fit the heads, well almost. Had to make some minor adjustments. So, to the test...

All cylinders where 9.5kg... except one... thought I had adjusted the tester too much, because how I tried, I couldn´t get any readings on cyl# 3... JESICA!!! COME HERE AND GIVE ME A HAND!!!

While Jesica turned the key, I put my finger over the hole... No pressure at all... So I put my finger over one of the other, and my god what a difference

Well, at least I´ve found where the problem is.

 

[Lunkan]

Couldn´t keep away from the garage. Took the intake off and found that the head gasket was blown on cyl# 3. Would this be enough not to get any compression?

http://www.turbolunkan.com/blown_gasket.jpg

 

[Razor]

3 always blows. Take a look at 2 and 6 for any weirdness. And make sure the cam is not damaged. Pull lifters out on the number 3 cylinder and inspect them for issues. make sure you put them back in the same holes.

Go and change the HG.. you'll be back up and tunning in a few hours..

If you fly me to Sweden.. i'll be more than happy to change them for you

hehehe

 

[Lunkan]

Ok, just pulled the head and what a relief:
http://www.turbolunkan.com/headgasket.jpg

No marks at all on the lifters, they look brand new.

Hey Julio, I´d be glad to pay a ticket for You, just have to get me a good raise first

How come it´s always #3 that blows?

 

[Razor]

3 is the majic number

Your going to need to drop the oil pan and get the graphite out. It can clog the pickup screen on the oil.

Tap the holes, make absolutely sure the head is perfectly flat, and make sure the surfaces are 100% free of any oil/grease on the head and block.

What can I say.. good luck.

Ohh.. tell me where to call so they can give you a raise

 

[Lunkan]

I took the dicision to take out the block and go through it and replace all bearings and seals. While at it, I´m going to o-ring the block and go to copper gasket instead.

I´ve just made a "small" wishlist of parts to bring with me home to Sweden...

 

[Razor]

The gasket is like a fuse. Currently your 6 hours away from getting the motor back on the road. Once you pull it, you'll be months away.

Put the stock gasket back on it, keep the car drivable, over the winter, perform your wishes on it.

Also copper gaskets can leak coolant into the oil destroying the motor. As can the cometics.

The stock TTA pistons will get a hole punched through them if you make a mistake. If the gasket doesnt blow.

You want to do something to alleviate the problem, pull the motor out in winter, deck the block, surface the heads, and install the gaskets on the motor. I bet it will handle about whatever you throw at it. If the deck surface isnt flat on the block, no gasket can fix that.

We have an expression here.. measure three times, cut once. Put a 50 dollar gasket on.. enjoy the car for a few more months.. then rebuild it. You blow a gasket replace it.. go back to tuning or figure what cuased the issue.

You dont blow a gasket.. you'll destroy the piston or crank if you make a mistake.

My .02

 

[Lunkan]

Julio, I undertand what You say and sure do listen. The thing is, the engine has never been opened, so I don´t know what shape the rods or bearings are. Ulf did run it pretty hard before me, so I´d really like to check it.

I´d like to run it, but then again I´d like to be certain it´s ok inside. I drove it rather long with the gasket blown.

And it´s easier to get it align bored, decked and checked during the autumn. In the winter the company have too much to do.

Anyway, I don´t have time over for the car until I get back from the States, and I still have a couple of weeks to decide.

 

[Razor]

Andreas, you'll have to drop the oil pan to get the missing piece of gasket out. While the pan is off, remove a couple rod caps like from cylinder 2 and 5 and inspect the bearings. If they look ok.. your good to go. If they have copper showing, then its time to pull the motor.

My engine was out in January this year.. I pulled the rod caps off..they were good.. back together it went.

If its not broken.. dont fix it

 

[Lunkan]

Originally posted by Razor
If its not broken.. dont fix it

Hey, that´s my quote Why don´t I follow it now

Is it possible to drop the oil pan with the engine still in place? It didn´t look like it.

 

[Razor]

You'll need to pull the two motor mount bolts, and then lift the motor or jack it up. The pan will come off. Cheese way is a block of wood under the balacer or flywheel. Better is an engine hoist. Watch the wiper arm box..

Ohh and get the crankshaft counter weights up on cylinders 1,2 than way the pan has an easier time clearing.

HTH

 

[Lunkan]

Thanks for the info, going to check it when I´ve got som time over

 

[The Swede]

I'm using the copper gasket with an O-ring in the block, no problem!
Why should this be an problem?
You don't use the stock gasket as an "fuse", you use the complete setup and and as it is suppossed to be used!

If you have the "coppergasket" blownaway engine in parts you have made something wrong!

Make sure that the engine has all the surfases correct and have the engine blueprinted and balanced as well when you have in parts!
That is the trick!

No problems!

A well done engine isn't no problem!

 

[Razor]

Originally posted by The Swede

A well done engine isn't no problem!

So your running 25 PSI boost lean and mean.. then.. you blow a fuel pressure regulator hose, overboost, fuel pump gets an issue, get a bad connection in the injector harness, misfire, get a bad batch of gas, lose an engine ground, ignition module goes bad, etc... all of these that can cuase cylinder pressure to go up up up up.... then what happens?

Answer.. the best pistons in the entire world will desintegrate. And the best machine work in the world will be reduced to a pile of rubble. Ive seen plenty of professional race cars blow up at the track.. go to any racing event.. they have engines lined up..

If your car is a track car running only C16 gasoline, then go ahead and copper SCE gaskets, hylomar them, stud them, do whatever.. but on a street car with questionable tuning(Andreas is learning), questionable conditions, things are 15 years old.. carefule what you ask for.

Do a head gasket in 6 hours.. or rebuild over a year. 35 dollars for the HG, vs 2500 on the motor.

Racing "IS" all about choices and decisions, I never said graphite gaskets are stronger than copper.. no way, I just said better a HG than a hole into a piston.

 

[The Swede]

Originally posted by Razor
So your running 25 PSI boost lean and mean.. then.. you blow a fuel pressure regulator hose, overboost, fuel pump gets an issue, get a bad connection in the injector harness, misfire, get a bad batch of gas, lose an engine ground, ignition module goes bad, etc... all of these that can cuase cylinder pressure to go up up up up.... then what happens?

Hehehe.... well, things can happen that way yes!