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Frame Notch PIA, What Are Your Labor Details, Price and Money??

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GNVYUS 1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2002
Messages
4,311
LET'S MAKE THIS USEFUL FOR FUTURE READERS

What did your notch cost, parts and labor?

How long did it take to do the notch labor wise?

Post pics of your notch frame and with tires?


Update on my notch, sometimes you can't buy happiness. Picture is 325/50/15 MT Street R.

My frame notch has been a real PIA, I can't ever just pay a huge amount and it's 100% done I guess.

Frame notch $6100, but it looked like the factory and was done with expert care, literally other shops couldn't tell it was notched. But....it had some small areas not marked and mathematical mapped out to make the notch useful for huge tires.

Issues to be aware of for your notch..
Original notch blended out too soon and rubs. You want to make a mark on the frame that is from the edge of the tire thread at the front and rear of the tire. This mark guarantees the notch has to at least go that far forwards and back and be FLAT the whole way. I suggest then going 1" more beyond this mark if you ever go to 30" tires.

The notch doesn't have equal thickness throughout. Make sure you have them MEASURE the thickness along the way so you don't have unequal thickness.

Shop can't get me in for many months for the fix so I find a local fabricator so I can finish up other things.

It's a FrankenFrame notch and after $2000 more you get the picture attached after the suspension shop gets it.

No one to blame but me, I try not to tell people HOW to do their jobs, just what I want and try to help with parts and vision.
What I should've done is sit down with them and see what they planned to do and pay them for their time to map out the repair. This would've entailed the measuring above and using the existing outside face of the frame vs welding plate and it looking rough and sticking out.

My Issues Even After Repair..
Frame isn't totally flat still from top area to rear area and there's like a 1/4" difference in notch width. My left tire has only a 1/2" spacer (rear end was shortened) and looks great tucked in, right tire has 1" spacer to clear the notch bump. My rear end is totally straight and this was aligned recently to confirm.

F me, I could've bought a frame, had it blasted, powdercoated, braced and then notched for what I got in this and probably installed yet I'm still not done. Now I'm in too deep to do my initial plan above but if you know me, I don't let BS derail my plan and I'll make happen somehow or literally do the above and then find those that have actually done this for real vs theory.


LET'S MAKE THIS USEFUL FOR FUTURE READERS

What did your notch cost, parts and labor?

How long did it take to do the notch labor wise?

Post pics of your notch frame and with tires?
 

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I was just thinking about getting my frame notched today. What are your specs on the wheels and is it a stock length rear? 325 50 15 is the tire I would like to use also.
 
Moser 9", shortened 1" with 325/50/15 ET Street R on 15x10 4.5"bs. This changes with what rear end, factory rear end would be 5.5"bs.

Let me just say, even this was a PIA. Moser has a form online that's very detailed except in the form area it asks about shortening the axles. I have the saved form where I said 1" shortened. They eventually called my shop and said they couldn't shorten, then built my rear, I hear about this and call them. Moser says they can only do stock unless the rear end has been notched or tubed, I say I ordered it that way because I'm notched, they then need $800 to shorten, repowdercoat and move shock brackets. F me again, unreal. Great form but they needed to add...

Factory Frame
Notched/Tubbed Frame
 
Ok interesting. I have a moser fab9 in my car but its stock length, I am also running a 15x10 wheel with a 4.5 back spacing with 275 60 15. With a full frame notch and a stock length rear a 15x10 with a 5.5 should work. I’m going to give my chassis guy a call and see what’s he charging and his turn around time is. When I had my nova he made me custom wheel tubs and he fabricated my trunk floor and made me rear frame rails when he did my mini tub. This was about 15 years ago and the cost was 2000 back then. Curious to see what he charges now. Here’s a pic of my Buick rearend setup now. IMG_8266.jpeg
 
1 & ONLY time dealing with the jerkoffs at Moser.
Their c clip eliminator axle kit was a total shitshow.
Seal crushed when they assembled it. Needed special tools to replace.
Bastard seal that they would not sell me.
Then, it was the "you didn't assemble it right", bullshit. :mad:
My next purchase was a Quicktimes 9".
Done right except for the wonky lower shock mounts.
I modified and notified them.
Recently read that they still have that issue. Some folks never learn.
 
I'm notched, they then need $800 to shorten, repowdercoat and move shock brackets.
Interesting , because I measured how much I could shorten each side ( which was 1.5" ) without touching the lower shock mounts . I gave the dimensions to Quick Performance and it bolted right up ...except for the funky angle of the lower shock mounting which I fixed with an angled spacer .
 
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