Front end rebuild kit install questions

[818GN]

I recently purchased the front end rebuild kit from Moog and I was wondering on the difficulty of switching out the parts? Spoke with my mechanic and got a quote for $800 for labor alone.

Kit included the following:

* Moog Centerlink
* Moog Idler Arm
* Moog Inner Tie Rod Ends (Qty. 2)
* Moog Outter Tie Rod Ends (Qty. 2)
* Spohn Extreme-Duty Tie Rod Adjusters (Qty. 2)

Are there any write ups, tips, or pics to explain how to switch out the front end parts? What is needed for this?

I have some mechanical experience, and am not afraid to learn. If the job is too difficult, then to experts she goes.

I don't mind getting dirty and have the time/tools to tackle it. Looking to save some $$$ for other parts in the build.

Thanks in advance,

 

[novaderrik]

you can buy the necessary tools for way less than $800 to do it yourself.
actually, the only tool you will need for htep arts you listed is a pickle fork.
if you were to replacethe boshings and balljoints, you'd need a balljoint press.
what you listed is maybe a couple hours of work and a trip to an alignment shop.

 

[818GN]

you can buy the necessary tools for way less than $800 to do it yourself.
actually, the only tool you will need for htep arts you listed is a pickle fork.
if you were to replacethe boshings and balljoints, you'd need a balljoint press.
what you listed is maybe a couple hours of work and a trip to an alignment shop.

You are correct in saying the tools and labor are much less. I will go research the 2 items you suggested.

Any other tricks, tips, suggestions?

 

[The_Six]

Supper easy job to do any one with a tape measure socket set and hammer can do it. I just loosen up the nuts on the tie rods until the nut is at the end of the bolt and then hit them with a hammer and they will pop loose do the same to separate the center link from the pitmen arm you can get a puller from autozone but I never have any luck with them and end up going to the hammer method. Then unbolt the Idler Arm from the frame. Now you will have all the steering out in one piece everything still attached as it was on the car. Measure all your tie rod lengths and make the new ones match make sure when you put the tie rods together you hold the in and outer tie rods in place ant turn just the adjusters.
Then bolt the center link on the pitman arm then the idler arm on the frame and last the tie rods. When done take it to the closest front end place you trust and have it aligned. I have the torque specks at home I can post them up for you when I get home tomorrow if needed. It took me less than 30 minutes to get everything apart but I pressure washed everything off and took a wire brush to all the bolts and sprayed with WD40 the day before.

 

[Red Regal T]

Any other tricks, tips, suggestions?

$800? If he's your mechanic of choice, LOSE HIM!

 

[gunslinger]

$800? If he's your mechanic of choice, LOSE HIM!

+1

Do it yourself.
Very easy job to do.
1. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame.
2. Unbolt the tie rod ends and separate them from the steering knuckles.
3. Unbolt the center link from the pitman arm and separate them.
4. Measure the length of the original tie rod ends and make the new ones the same length as the originals.
5. Install all of your new parts and take it to a good alignment shop.

 

[818GN]

Good stuff.

Will I need grease for any of the parts? If so, what type and where should it be added?

The parts I am replacing are original, so they are quite dirty, greased over, and rusted a bit.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[The_Six]

Yes the tie rods and idler arm have grease fittings I use barring grease from Wal-Mart nothing fancy. If you dont have a grease gun just get a cheap one from walmart or harbor friaght tools. Or have the front end place grease every thing when they do the alignment.

 

[818GN]

One last question before I tackle this job tomorrow. I would like to replace the ball joints as well, since I purchased them from Moog along with everything else.

Whats involved/needed for that? Is it pretty straight forward by eyeballing it or are special tools needed?

Also, thanks to all that replied so far.

 

[Dabigguy]

Since you're going to replace the ball joints, might as well replace the upper and lower control arm bushings while you have them apart. You will need to have them pressed out and back in with a press, but your whole front end will be good as new.

 

[charlief1]

You can get a ball joint press at Auto Zone as a "loan a tool". It costs about $100 + tax but you return it and get your money back so there's no real cost.

 

[818GN]

Perfect. Will do just that.

Will feel/see/notice a direct benefit from replacing these parts?

 

[The_Six]

you will notice a big difrence you need to replace the shocks to if you havent.

 

[conn84gn]

I replaced everything for the $800.00
UMI uppers
UMI lower
Moog springs
upper ball joints
Everything but the upper ball joints from Brian
Man what a difference
bought a spring compressor $38.00
took my time no rush two days yes I have a garage
$69.00 front end alinement Town Fare Tire took 90 min two guys
These old cars take time to do alinement
Best thing I did for the front end

 

[GNRick]

Since you're going to replace the ball joints, might as well replace the upper and lower control arm bushings while you have them apart. You will need to have them pressed out and back in with a press, but your whole front end will be good as new.

The screws holding the upper control arms to the frame have little splines in them which rust out over the years. You should have new ones on hand when you reinstall the arms. The reason for the splines is so you don't need to put a socket on them when you tighten the nut. Also, take notice of the shims that come off so you can put them back on the same way. I know this all looks like a straight forward job, but there is a reason your mechanic wanted $800. I would recommend that you save this job for the winter if you have a garage to work in. I also tried painting my control arms with POR-15 while I had them off. I used their three step process for cleaning, metal etching, and then the black rustproofer, but for some reason it just pealed off. Oh, I saw someone selling those light weight upper arms on ebay for $200/pair. Probably made in China. Didn't include the ball joints.

 

[DailyDrifter]

Well you might as well throw some new wheel bearings and races in there too :biggrin:. Its not hard to redo the front end. Take note of how many shims are on each upper control arm and keep them in that same orientation. For a quick alignment until you get to the shop get a tape measure and pick a groove in the tires and make the measurments the same from the front of the tire and rear. If you do the bushings yourself put the new ones in the freezer for awhile (Also works for jeep steering shafts ).

 

[The_Six]

If your going to replace the ball joints and bushings in the A arms I would get a set of these GBodyParts.com Online you will find out that if you have to pay some one to but the new ball joints and bushings in it will be cheaper to get a set of these tubular arms I was charged $50 to have my ball joints and bushings put in my lower arms that was with me taking them off the car and droping them off at the shop. plus 40 for poly busings and 50 for ball joints if I did that for the uppers it would have been $140 you can get the tubulkars for $170 and never have a bushing to go bad from the down pipe heat again.

 

[Junior Samples]

If you do the bushings yourself put the new ones in the freezer for awhile .

Same with balljoints... balljoints go in the freezer, put the torch to the arms heating them up, then drop the balljoint in.

 

[Junior Samples]

double post

 

[GNRick]

Same with balljoints... balljoints go in the freezer, put the torch to the arms heating them up, then drop the balljoint in.

Is it ok to bolt the cup with the boot under the A-arm hole and drop the ball joint in from above?