are these the parts i need to replace front main seal, rear main seal, and timing chain? i have 90,000 on the car and i heard this is what i need to replace is it true? also does someone make a package that has all the parts and gaskets and evrything? thanks jerrad
front main, rear main seal and timing chain?
- Thread starter jerrad
- Start date
Welcome!
By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.
Blown&Injected
Active Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2001
- Messages
- 3,721
I went over 225,000 before replacing those seals, or timing chain, in my car.
If it is leaking lots of oil, then go for it, otherwise leave it alone.
If it is leaking lots of oil, then go for it, otherwise leave it alone.
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2003
- Messages
- 9,742
did my chain at 128 .
3 teethwere missing and cracks all over,I have a good pic of it its nylon on aluminum. when it starts to break down the nylon goes to the oil pickup and if it gets down to the aluminum the bearings can be damaged.
if the gear fails and the chain slips the pistons will hit valves
felpro timing cover set TCS45930
includes gaskets for timing cover /waterpump/cam sensor o-ring/fuelpump plate /front oil pan /rubber front seal/oilpump cover
your choice on the timing chain set, GM lasts and is quite but not cheap , stock replacement is cheap and youll need new tensioner-( gm Tensioner 25532546- gm Tensioner Spring 1358909, or try parts store ) , if going with a performance set no tensioner needed .
replace the cam button w/ HD cam thrust button roller type (GM 2553288)
or from dynagear(advance auto)cam button 7189
felpro rear main seal kit BS40613
felpro rubber oil pan gasket OS30521R or duttweiler cork
consider replacing the oil pickup tube (w/screen) advanceauto 2OIS2 -its cheap
good time to replace the waterpump and do the thermostat and check hoses and replace any worn
dont need to touch the oilpump
heres a link that has all the specifics for install
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/enginepage.html
the balancer is on good at over 200 ft lbs , you might have some fun getting it off but make sure to retorque to over 210ftlbs
a list of torque specs for all fasteners can be found here as well as how to install and adjust the cam and crank sensors. http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/
3 teethwere missing and cracks all over,I have a good pic of it its nylon on aluminum. when it starts to break down the nylon goes to the oil pickup and if it gets down to the aluminum the bearings can be damaged.
if the gear fails and the chain slips the pistons will hit valves
felpro timing cover set TCS45930
includes gaskets for timing cover /waterpump/cam sensor o-ring/fuelpump plate /front oil pan /rubber front seal/oilpump cover
your choice on the timing chain set, GM lasts and is quite but not cheap , stock replacement is cheap and youll need new tensioner-( gm Tensioner 25532546- gm Tensioner Spring 1358909, or try parts store ) , if going with a performance set no tensioner needed .
replace the cam button w/ HD cam thrust button roller type (GM 2553288)
or from dynagear(advance auto)cam button 7189
felpro rear main seal kit BS40613
felpro rubber oil pan gasket OS30521R or duttweiler cork
consider replacing the oil pickup tube (w/screen) advanceauto 2OIS2 -its cheap
good time to replace the waterpump and do the thermostat and check hoses and replace any worn
dont need to touch the oilpump
heres a link that has all the specifics for install
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/enginepage.html
the balancer is on good at over 200 ft lbs , you might have some fun getting it off but make sure to retorque to over 210ftlbs
a list of torque specs for all fasteners can be found here as well as how to install and adjust the cam and crank sensors. http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/
Jerrad, Pacecarta's advice is solid.
Advance/Discount autoparts carries all these items. They are not Buick specific. I dont know if any vendor carries all these parts.
Rear main, do a search.. use the "right stuff" instead of the pins. Johns performance may carry a lot of the items your looking for.
Timing chain=timing ticking bomb. Even my sprocket at 30 K miles had cracks in the gears.
Call me if you need specific procedural help.
Advance/Discount autoparts carries all these items. They are not Buick specific. I dont know if any vendor carries all these parts.
Rear main, do a search.. use the "right stuff" instead of the pins. Johns performance may carry a lot of the items your looking for.
Timing chain=timing ticking bomb. Even my sprocket at 30 K miles had cracks in the gears.
Call me if you need specific procedural help.
BLACK DEATH DSR
New Member
- Joined
- Apr 29, 2004
- Messages
- 168
If there is a front seal, then what is the rope seal for? Is there something better than the rope to use? My front seal is leaking and I also need to replace it.
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2003
- Messages
- 9,742
the stock front seal is made of rope just like the stock rear main seal , you could replace both with rope since they still sell them , but why would you ??
felpro timing cover set TCS45930
includes gaskets for timing cover /waterpump/cam sensor o-ring/fuelpump plate /front oil pan /rubber front seal/oilpump cover
youll need the front seal set to replace the front rope seal with the newer rubber seal because it taps in from the back side .
might as well do the timing chain/cam button since your 95% of the way there.
felpro timing cover set TCS45930
includes gaskets for timing cover /waterpump/cam sensor o-ring/fuelpump plate /front oil pan /rubber front seal/oilpump cover
youll need the front seal set to replace the front rope seal with the newer rubber seal because it taps in from the back side .
might as well do the timing chain/cam button since your 95% of the way there.
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2003
- Messages
- 9,742
felpro BS40613 is a two peice neoprene , no such thing as a i peice on the buick
it comes with two rubber side seals and 4 pins to drive along side them to make them snug
gnttype directions warn against using the side seals and pins , just use rtv black and poke with a wet wire to help cure
i used the blue silicone rubber felpro and it was fine , helps to loosly tie it on through a couple of the bolt holes with some thin string , floss works. makes it easier to slide pan over the crossmeber without loosing the gasket into the pan and once its in place with some bolts in loose you can cut and remove the strings. torque to spec work your way around the pan bolts a couple times , dont overtighten
the cork works as well and can be glued to the pan making it much easier to get into place . its a few dollars more than rubber and the only good one i know of is the duttweiler one from kirban or RJC.
it comes with two rubber side seals and 4 pins to drive along side them to make them snug
gnttype directions warn against using the side seals and pins , just use rtv black and poke with a wet wire to help cure
i used the blue silicone rubber felpro and it was fine , helps to loosly tie it on through a couple of the bolt holes with some thin string , floss works. makes it easier to slide pan over the crossmeber without loosing the gasket into the pan and once its in place with some bolts in loose you can cut and remove the strings. torque to spec work your way around the pan bolts a couple times , dont overtighten
the cork works as well and can be glued to the pan making it much easier to get into place . its a few dollars more than rubber and the only good one i know of is the duttweiler one from kirban or RJC.
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2003
- Messages
- 9,742
no, i had fresh kirbans in there , lots of room .
wasnt much with the old worn mounts though
wasnt much with the old worn mounts though
Similar threads
