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sure you can fab a make-shift tank for testing but having a full tank now sucks - about 6.5 lb/gal. need some fuel approved cans. borrow some from folks in the area?
with no pressure in fuel rail, remove fuel rail cap, remove schrader valve with tool or needle nose pliers. attach fuel rated hose and clamp to fuel rail, running hose to cans. use fuel pump prime connector black behind alternator and jumper wire alligator clips to run pump to empty tank into the cans.
However,
only issue is lack of priming (pressurizing fuel system) prior to startup. once the engine is running, you noted all is OK. you're in CA, so maybe keep driving the car to use up the tank, tackle the fuel pump later
been about a month...inquiring minds would like to know...have you driven around enough to use up most of the tank so you can drop it to remove the fuel pump and send it to DW for installation of a check valve?
no such thing as a dumb question...the only a dumb question is a question not askedDumb question, is it a big deal if there is not a check valve in that DW pump? Does it adversely effect anything when it is running?
Wondering if the DW400 with a check valve becomes a DW350. Would be interesting to see what DW says.I thought back in the day guys would bypass the check valve to get more out of the pump. Back when the 255 liter pump was the only intank stock hangar pump.