Fuel upgrades tomorrow...questions!!

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

WH1_T-Type

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2009
Messages
2,528
So tomorrow I am doing several upgrades that I have no guidence for..help!

I am installing a Walbro fuel pump that I got from Full Throttle. I found the part in the manual about how to remove one..so to put this one in is just the reverse, right? Is there something extra I should do?

I have an ADJ FPR to put in and that seems pretty straight forward....remove lines from old one...attach new one...right?

I am installing a hotwire kit from Full Throttle...just attach leads to the points that they are labeled for? Or am I missing something?

I have a liquid filled gauge with a long enough line that I am attaching this too my hood (kinda cheesy....I know) ..how do I get the 'schrader' valve off of the fuel rail??? Is there some sort of tool I can get from Auto Zone or is there another home method I can use?

After all that, I am installing a TT chip as well and upping the boost by a few pounds...so I'm really looking forward to getting this done, just would like some directions!!!!!!!

Thanks
 
So tomorrow I am doing several upgrades that I have no guidence for..help!

I am installing a Walbro fuel pump that I got from Full Throttle. I found the part in the manual about how to remove one..so to put this one in is just the reverse, right? Is there something extra I should do?

here is a link. How to install an intank fuel pump. - TurboBuicks.com basic just reverse the install. few things like removing the pulsator and cutting the flare off the fuel hanger.

I have an ADJ FPR to put in and that seems pretty straight forward....remove lines from old one...attach new one...right?


correct. make sure the line in the bottom goes in STRAIGHT finger tight then use a wrench last.


I am installing a hotwire kit from Full Throttle...just attach leads to the points that they are labeled for? Or am I missing something?

correct. however make sure you test it out before you put the tank back in the car. some people wire the new pump wrong. then they have to drop the tank to fix it. if the pump is wired wrong when you install the new one it will pop the hotwire fuse.

I have a liquid filled gauge with a long enough line that I am attaching this too my hood (kinda cheesy....I know) ..how do I get the 'schrader' valve off of the fuel rail??? Is there some sort of tool I can get from Auto Zone or is there another home method I can use?


yes. you can get the tool you need from any auto parts store. its a simple valve core remover. same ones they use for tires.


After all that, I am installing a TT chip as well and upping the boost by a few pounds...so I'm really looking forward to getting this done, just would like some directions!!!!!!!

just ask us when you get to this point. just remember to disconnect the orange wire prior to changing the chip located near the battery. follow erics directions and you should be good to go

Thanks

hope this helps
 
So tomorrow I am doing several upgrades that I have no guidence for..help!

After all that, I am installing a TT chip as well and upping the boost by a few pounds...so I'm really looking forward to getting this done, just would like some directions!!!!!!!

Thanks

Do you have a Scanmaster or other scan tool / logger? I would wait on upping the boost until you get some results such as knock retard and O2 voltage to see where you are at now.

Take is slow and work on the tune and you will pick-up HP. ;)
 
I did the same upgrades earlier in the season. Hardest part for me was getting the o-rings on both the tank and the regulator to seat properly. Pay very close attention to them the first time around.
 
Boost pretty much had ya covered.

fuel reg: line it up (dont pinch the O ring), finger start the fuel line THEN start your two bolts.

Dont install/tighten the two bolts first then think the fuel line will just slide right in....

And dont lose your shrader valve
 
i know i should have listed the o rings but i didnt. i like to use alittle lub on the orings when i install the regulator. just recently i was working on a gn and noticed that the regulator wasnt fully seated so just keep and eye on it.
 
How do you suggest testing the pump before the install .Do you just plug it up to make sure it is running ? I am doing mine today and didnt think about testing first
 
just install it into the tank and hook up the power connector plug to the car. put a piece of hose on the outlet of the hanger. turn the ign. on so it will spray into a catch can. as long as it primes and doesnt pop the fuse its good.
 
Thanks for the info guys. Boost that was very helpful. I am also doing the fluids. So right now I have changed oil/filter, PCV valve, ADJ FPR, and FP gauge. I am going to redo the regulator to ensure that the Oring is on there right I think and I also need to add the teflon tape to the threads of the gauge. Then I will be doing the trans fluid, rear end, then fuel pump/hot wire!
 
Do you have a Scanmaster or other scan tool / logger? I would wait on upping the boost until you get some results such as knock retard and O2 voltage to see where you are at now.

Take is slow and work on the tune and you will pick-up HP. ;)

I do have a scanmaster. If I get it all done tonight I intend to up the boost 1# (to 15) and take it to work in the morning. If it is all good after going there and coming back I will up it another # and so forth.
 
good luck. if you have anymore questions post up. i will be on the board all day today
 
Good to know! How about the location of the fuse for the fuel pump? If it is labled on the block on the left hand underside of the dash.....it has worn off of mine and I can't seem to find it!!!!
 
I do have a scanmaster. If I get it all done tonight I intend to up the boost 1# (to 15) and take it to work in the morning. If it is all good after going there and coming back I will up it another # and so forth.

Sounds like a good plan. Good luck and have fun! You are in deep now. Once you experience these cars you never go back, only add more toys to it. :eek::D
 
not sure which fuse it is. however i know if its wired wrong it will pop the hotwire fuse not the main fuse on the fuse panel.
 
not sure which fuse it is. however i know if its wired wrong it will pop the hotwire fuse not the main fuse on the fuse panel.

I wasn't looking for that...wanted to pull the fuse and start the car in order to depressurize the system.
 
I tried to start pulling the tank, but the bolts are so rusted on that it is taking forever to get them off and I am quickly running out of daylight. Sooo..I figured I would just start wrapping it up and do the pump and hotwire another day soon. I went to start the car and it started, FP gauge got to only about 35psi and then it died. Now the FP gauge doesn't even move above 10psi (whether or not the key is on) and the car won't start!!!

No matter what I do with the ADJ FPR it still won't start...thoughts?
 
is the pump turning on? did you put the fuse back in? what did you all do today? so like the pump isnt turning on. did you reconnect the ecm power wire? power wire at the tank?
 
I couldn't find the fuse so I had just depressurized the system through the schrader valve like we talked about. Hadn't dropped the tank yet so all the other wires were still on. Hadn't even gotten one side halfway loose before I decided I didn't have time so I stopped. I CANNOT hear the pump turn on.
 
Back
Top