Fuel upgrades tomorrow...questions!!

[WH1_T-Type]

Yeah..wire in the tank.

Fuse is the one in the main fuse block in the engine compartment...I can't read the label anymore..just worn off mostly...looks like it said IGN though.

Gonna start on the IAC soon. Just odd cause it was reading fine before I did anything at all too it. Then after the oil/filter change it started reading zero.

 

[Steve V]

Yeah..wire in the tank.

Fuse is the one in the main fuse block in the engine compartment...I can't read the label anymore..just worn off mostly...looks like it said IGN though.

That's the ignition fuse. Very important and will not run with out it...unless someone has hacked up the wires/harness. This quite common as I've seen a lot of wires/harness hacked on the TR's I've messed with over the last 14 years.

 

[LITLV6]

i have never seen a 30 amp ignition fuse. my car is in storage or i would look at it. someone chime in here as this doesnt sound right to me. was there a smaller fuse that blew that made you put a bigger one in? you may have a short somewhere causing extra load on the fuse.

also, could someone tell me why you would want to remove the schrader valve from the fuel rail? just for quicker response? i have a digital in the overhead pod in my 86 gn t-top pod its a pro comp ultra lite and it seems to react just fine with the schrader in......... or is it just a fitting issue that the line your putting on wont depress the schrader? mine used to have a stainless line and fluid filled gauge the same way and it worked fine, i just wanted it inside the car

 

[WH1_T-Type]

That's the ignition fuse. Very important and will not run with out it...unless someone has hacked up the wires/harness. This quite common as I've seen a lot of wires/harness hacked on the TR's I've messed with over the last 14 years.

Had the standard 15amp fuse in....keeps blowing that now. Did NOT happen until I put in the hotwire. Started the car once with JUST the walbro in and it didn't blow it....now it does. Hotwire fuse does NOT blow. Car starts/runs fine and ignition does NOT get hot. Followed racetronix instructions to the T and I did not touch anything in the ignition.

Very worried about having a larger fuse in there.

IAC and TPS are in setting now!!

 

[WH1_T-Type]

i have never seen a 30 amp ignition fuse. my car is in storage or i would look at it. someone chime in here as this doesnt sound right to me. was there a smaller fuse that blew that made you put a bigger one in? you may have a short somewhere causing extra load on the fuse.

also, could someone tell me why you would want to remove the schrader valve from the fuel rail? just for quicker response? i have a digital in the overhead pod in my 86 gn t-top pod its a pro comp ultra lite and it seems to react just fine with the schrader in......... or is it just a fitting issue that the line your putting on wont depress the schrader? mine used to have a stainless line and fluid filled gauge the same way and it worked fine, i just wanted it inside the car

Type of FP gauge I have called for removing the valve...so I did.

 

[LITLV6]

did it say to replace the fuse or is that just what you had to do to make it work.

and i was just curious about the schrader........

 

[WH1_T-Type]

No it didn't say anything about the fuse...it just started blowing after install of the hotwire.

 

[Steve V]

That means something is screwed up!! You could burn that car down...so you need to trace every circuit that's on that fuse and find out why it's blowing. Plenty of info on daigrams on the net,search and start tracing.

Double and tripple everything you touched with the upgrades. Unhook the hotwire and see if it does blow on the factory wiring.

 

[LITLV6]

No it didn't say anything about the fuse...it just started blowing after install of the hotwire.

just a thought...... i havent ordered my hotwire yet so i havent seen the setup. i'm thinking you have a switched ign. source which would be low current (turn on lead) and a power source wire. the (current drawing circuit) and a ground. my ten years of electronic experience is making me think you have somehow switched those 2 wires in the process, causing your pump to draw off of the ignition circuit. check that, i'll bet thats it. :wink: let us know what happens.......

this would explain why it is drawing too much for ignition circuit but not exceeding the 30 amp when you put it in. if this is the case it is bad to have it that way because that circuit does not have large enough gauge wire to stand that load and will therefore get hot........

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Changed nothing....put the 15amp back in just to try before I started making changes (it's dark, cold, and wet...gotta try the simple stuff first!!) and it is starting and running with no issues now!! ???bit confused....???

Could it just be that the system had to get used to the differences? Just spitballing here!

 

[LITLV6]

Changed nothing....put the 15amp back in just to try before I started making changes (it's dark, cold, and wet...gotta try the simple stuff first!!) and it is starting and running with no issues now!! ???bit confused....???

Could it just be that the system had to get used to the differences? Just spitballing here!

can't say for sure why it is ok right now. do you have a multimeter with an amp probe or amperage setting on it? if so you should check the draw on that circuit at that fuse.

 

[WH1_T-Type]

Not yet...gonna get one on the 15th of this month though.

 

[LITLV6]

Not yet...gonna get one on the 15th of this month though.

if its in the budget, get a fluke. its the only one. i have a fluke 179. you can get attachments for them for amp probe and temp and other stuff, its really only good for 10amp except for a short time, a stand alone amp probe would be a little better for this, but i would believe that just the ignition alone probably wouldnt draw over 10 amp by itself. i would start with back tracking that connection first, just for the sake of that bein the most logical possible problem. i hope my babbling helps out a little.:wink: