turbofabricator
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Anyone meeting tonight somewhere? I'd like to put some miles on the twin turbo car and meet up with everyone.
Ken
Ken
Get-together somewhere tonight?
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turbofabricator
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Ok........I'll keep the car home, safe, and dry. Maybe next Saturday.
TurboSlacker
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Let's all meet at Clearview McDonalds next Sat...Sept 16th around 6pm
turbofabricator
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Sounds good to me.
TurboSlacker
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No turn-out tonight either. I was there at 6pm but no turbo buick guys showed-up. Only about 15 cars total were there. Everyone must be tucking their cars in for the Winter already.
Oh well, looking forward to next Sat racing at Bremerton!
Oh well, looking forward to next Sat racing at Bremerton!
turbofabricator
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Sorry Dan, I have my brake system COMPLETLY torn apart. I am converting to manual brakes (from an S-10) and had it ready friday afternoon to go to Pacific Raceways for test and tune session, but when I was trying out the new manual master cylinder and the holding power, the right rear wheel cylinder went POP! and tried to make my car a permanent part of my garage wall 
So, I installed bigger wheel cylinders (S-10 manual) and also needed to install the line-lock and an adjustable porportioning valve. So, needless to say the car runs and drives right now but it has NO brakes, so I figured it would be best if I left it in the garage 
Trying to find all the right fittings to do away with the combination valve is ..............well,...........CHALLENGING! I am having to fab fittings and cut and re-flare brake lines. The 1/4" brake line cominng out of the combination valve to the rear brakes is the hardest to deal with. It uses a 9/16" wrench size and a normal 1/4" inverted flare "B" nut uses a 7/16" wrench (just like the turbo oil feed line) So, I'll have to cut the fitting off and re-flare it. The trouble is that the factory brake lines are harder than the replacement lines you get at a parts store and they like to slip in the flaring tool and not flare. I have a good quality flaring tool that I will try this time (the last time I tried it was on my original GN about 18 years ago) If the flaring tool slips on the line I'll use a "Swedgelok" fitting. http://www.swagelok.com/shopping/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-400-1-2
I did swap the brake lines on the master cylinder after I talked with Gene. He said that some of the NHRA Stock racers do that to get more pressure to the rear wheels. Well, it was enough to pop my rear wheel cylinder :biggrin: But it wasn't due to pressure, but was due to the shoes being out of adjustment and when the expanded and rotated from power braking, the forward ended just popped out and the pedal went to the floor. (and my right foot came off the gas pedal REAL fast and my right knee hit the steering wheel :wink: )
So, I installed bigger wheel cylinders (S-10 manual) and also needed to install the line-lock and an adjustable porportioning valve. So, needless to say the car runs and drives right now but it has NO brakes, so I figured it would be best if I left it in the garage Trying to find all the right fittings to do away with the combination valve is ..............well,...........CHALLENGING! I am having to fab fittings and cut and re-flare brake lines. The 1/4" brake line cominng out of the combination valve to the rear brakes is the hardest to deal with. It uses a 9/16" wrench size and a normal 1/4" inverted flare "B" nut uses a 7/16" wrench (just like the turbo oil feed line) So, I'll have to cut the fitting off and re-flare it. The trouble is that the factory brake lines are harder than the replacement lines you get at a parts store and they like to slip in the flaring tool and not flare. I have a good quality flaring tool that I will try this time (the last time I tried it was on my original GN about 18 years ago) If the flaring tool slips on the line I'll use a "Swedgelok" fitting. http://www.swagelok.com/shopping/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-400-1-2 I did swap the brake lines on the master cylinder after I talked with Gene. He said that some of the NHRA Stock racers do that to get more pressure to the rear wheels. Well, it was enough to pop my rear wheel cylinder :biggrin: But it wasn't due to pressure, but was due to the shoes being out of adjustment and when the expanded and rotated from power braking, the forward ended just popped out and the pedal went to the floor. (and my right foot came off the gas pedal REAL fast and my right knee hit the steering wheel :wink: )
