Getting ready to rebuild motor.

[QWIKWE4]

I'm getting ready to start the rebuild on my motor and have a list of things I'm going to do to it and want to get some input on what you guys think and I want to make sure I dont forget anything.

.020 JE Pistons
Reconditioned stock rods
factory crank
Clevite bearings
Total Seal rings
Hi-Volume front cover
ARP Head and Main studs
Double roller chain
Roller cam 210/215
ported 8445 heads and intake

At what point should steel caps or a girdle be included in this list?
Also what power level is the limit for the factory rods and crank?

 

[SouthernCal GN]

Ditch the high volume cover. Get a stock cover and blueprint it.

What's your power/performance goal? If the goal is a solid 11.0 ride/5-something RWHP, then ditch the girdle also.

Does the block need boring, or do you want to go .020 for displacement?


Limit- Dan (Grumpy) is down in the 9s at 130+mph on the factory rods and crank

Don't be tempted to throw good cash at the motor, only to go SLOWER. It's all about the combo....

 

[QWIKWE4]

This is pretty much what I'm looking for.

500+RwHp
11.30-11.50 in the 1/4
reliable

I definately dont want to over spend but at the same time I dont want to cut any corners.

 

[MSDGN]

I ran 11.40-11.50 for years on an untouched stock 109 motor...only thing I changed was the cam...put in a 206/206 flat tappet...heads were untouched from the factory...and the motor has over 150K miles on it...just don't detonate...I totally agree with the comment about ditching the hi-vol front cover...just do a basic rebuild...forget a girdle...with ported heads you should be able to run 11.40's all day long without a lot of boost...that is depending on what turbo you use...

 

[SouthernCal GN]

This is pretty much what I'm looking for.

500+RwHp
11.30-11.50 in the 1/4
reliable

I definately dont want to over spend but at the same time I dont want to cut any corners.

Mototron 60s
Progressive alky kit
mild cam (roller)

WBO2

Build it to factory specs, keep the detonation to ZERO, learn to tune the beast,and go kill lesser creatures.

Your goal of mid 11s is regularly done with stock motors with a few bolt-ons and tuning.....

 

[QWIKWE4]

The previous best before I lost oil pressure and wiped out the main bearings is in my sig.

7.76@90ish (TC unlocked) but that was only once it ran consistant 7.85-7.90 on 23-25lbs of boost and 24/22* of timing with an 10.9-11.2afr, that was with a stock unopened motor with 150k miles on it.


Thanks for all the input guys. When I get the motor out I'll post a pic of what was in the pan. Its pretty nasty. It looks like the gold flakes from about 20-30 bottles of goldschlager were dumped into the engine.

 

[SouthernCal GN]

The previous best before I lost oil pressure and wiped out the main bearings is in my sig.

7.76@90ish (TC unlocked) but that was only once it ran consistant 7.85-7.90 on 23-25lbs of boost and 24/22* of timing with an 10.9-11.2afr, that was with a stock unopened motor with 150k miles on it.


Thanks for all the input guys. When I get the motor out I'll post a pic of what was in the pan. Its pretty nasty. It looks like the gold flakes from about 20-30 bottles of goldschlager were dumped into the engine.

Boy- do i feel like a idiot.....fergot to lookee at yer sig. Y'allready got the good stuff goin' fer ya!

A humbled Pete.....

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

I'm sure that you know that the engine should be "cooked" or dipped to get it clean. Dirt is the #1 enemy of your new bearings, if using a oil cooler throw it out or replace it. Also don't forget to lube the main bolts before torqing them down.
You will also need a "bearing" cam button.

Chuck

 

[machinegun]

I second ditching the high volume front cover. Blue print the stocker with a new thrust plate and you will be fine. Look for the article on this site and will work excellent.

The stock engine will be fine for that kind of power.

The 2 center caps are not a bad idea to do billet but you then require a good shop to refurb caps and line hone.

Pistons. rods, crank all good for 11.0, weve been 10's

refurb the stock rods by a good mchine shop. The stck bolts will be fine, although you can use ARP's if you want.

machine the crank so that your main and rod clearances are .0015 to .0020, I shoot for 00165.

The mains could use to upgrade to the ARP hardware, not needed but I always do.

The stock heads untouched cleaned up will work fine. However since you are adding a cam, and the heads are off get them ported even if not installing bigger valves.


Good gaskets clevite 77 bearings and assemble properly and you will be fine.

Hope this helps.

 

[gossamer]

ARP bolts in rods, billet main caps on the 2 centers, stock rods and crank will get you there, HV pump OK but don't really need it if all your clearances are good. The rest of the combo you listed should get it done.