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Girdles...when do you really need to install?

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Contact Richard Simmons........HE has enough personality to sell some to you. Matter of fact, I bet he'll GIVE you some for FREE!;) :biggrin:
This Richard Simmons does he own a Buick, If not I can't be bothered.
 
I'm curious, at point does one really need to install a girdle? Are we talking 12.0 and lower, 11.5 and lower, 10.99 and lower? What is the magic number that you would say you would be absolutly crazy not to run one?

The reason I ask is that I'm almost ready to get the short block done on my engine, and this would be the time to do it, but realistically I don't know that I can really justify the expense of the RJC Girdle and machining if my real goals are a mid to upper 11 sec car. Mostly would be crusing around town and the once in a blue moon 1/4 mile blast, but I want it to have the stones to lay down the "darkside" attitude when needed.

I know I probably could just do the billet center main caps, and call it done, which would be cheap insurance, but the bottom line is at what point does one really need to start beefing up the bottom end?

Thanks and Merry Christmas to everyone :)

Steve

A good condition turbo crank, properly prepped stock rods, forged pistons, two billet caps and main studs built right will hold mid 10's forever with a clean tune. Once you start talking low 10's or quicker it is adviseable to use an all forged rotating assembly with a RJC girdle. Installing billet caps and a girdle is an absolute waste of money and offers 0 benefit.
Unfortunately an unbreakable bottom end is not possible with a turbo car no matter what parts are used or how well it's done.
 
It's pretty much human nature. No matter how good we build something, we usually find a way to break it or ruin it;)
 
Don't waste your money on a girdle and stock crank. I took the motor apart after a non priming oil pump issue etc, and you could see where the stock crank was flexing on all the bearing surfaces. Threw in a CAT forged, no more problems.
Cheapest would be caps/stock crank for the moment, but it will only take you so far....
 
Good thread

So how far could a stock crank, reconditioned 2 dot rods and a girdled block be pushed?? Inquiring minds want to know.
 
IMO you are pushing your luck quicker than low 10's and for sure 9's would make me flinch even with a great tune.
 
So how far could a stock crank, reconditioned 2 dot rods and a girdled block be pushed?? Inquiring minds want to know.

Mid 10's would be the fastest I would go if I plan to run at the track often. But, that is just my .02.
 
I have had no oil leak issues with my girdle. Three engines with girdles and no oil leaks. The machine work needs to be correct and a good sealant.

And as far as too when. Hard to say, some have broken cranks running mid 11's and some never brake in the low 10's. I just know that the girdle ties the mains together and will distribute the load of the crank to the oil pan rails instead of a single main cap. For of cost of caps and have it machined, you can buy a girdle and have it machined for about $100 more, and have a more solid foundation. Just my .02 anyway.

I agree. I have seen a few steel capped block have severe fretting even with studs. There is another problem that i have witht eh steel caps is the bolt holes are way too big and allow the caps to move front to back even when in the registers.

Machine the stock caps for the use of a girdle and preload them using some shims or machine the pan rails down .005 and bolts it down and the center of the caps are preloaded and then have it line bored and voila
 
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