Giving up

[NorCalTurbos]

After all this time trying to figure out my issues I'm finally giving up on this HA stuff it seems like I just need to go with an 86-87 complete swap I'll probably sell my engine soon and all of my HA parts motor has 70k on it but it's missing under load idles great but in gear runs weird I'm soo pissed I just wanted to give the ic cars a run for their $$$ and keep this rare car HA

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

Your problems sound like they are out of the capabilities of a Scanmaster. The best way to find your problems is a powerlogger. Get one for your new 87 setup as you will need it there as well.

 

[NorCalTurbos]

Thanks I'm looking into it now this has gotten soo frustrating But I just can't let this get the best of me

 

[Wahoo]

Get a power logger before switching from hot air, maybe it will help and you can stay hot air.

 

[NorCalTurbos]

Get a power logger before switching from hot air, maybe it will help and you can stay hot air.

Thanks I'm gonna get one I thought those were for real racers mostly

 

[novaderrik]

your issues don't have anything to do with whether it has an intercooler or not: you need to figure out what is causing it to run like it is (fuel pressure... injector(s).. spark plug(s)... plug wire(s).. cam lobe(s) going flat.. screwed up wiring...) and fix it.

 

[NorCalTurbos]

your issues don't have anything to do with whether it has an intercooler or not: you need to figure out what is causing it to run like it is (fuel pressure... injector(s).. spark plug(s)... plug wire(s).. cam lobe(s) going flat.. screwed up wiring...) and fix it.

Thanks bro I love my car and I will definitely figure it out I'm just so close it's killing me to not be able to take it up the street and feel how it runs

 

[TurboBuRick]

Unplug the o2 sensor. That will lock it in open loop. See if that makes any difference.

 

[standupjskiguy]

I drive a v-6, 96 Beretta. Your brief description sounds a similar to a gremlin that owned me most of last summer.
My car idled fine and cold, ran fine too. But after about 3-5 minutes, I'd give it a little throttle and it would stumble.
In some cases it would actually feel like the ignition cut out. If I pushed harder on the accelerator it would then accelerate
but it didn't seem to have normal power. I changed every sensor, TPS, MAP, MAF, IAT and coolant sensor. I changed ignition module, coils, plugs and wires. Tested fuel pressure and regulator. Even got a new EGR valve. I changed out the ECM too.
Finally, I read that spark knock sensors can become sensitive when they get old and that it could be retarding the timing when
it shouldn't be. I disconnected it and the car ran better. While it was disconnected, I did not push the car hard. So I got a new sensor and the car ran great. But after two weeks the problem came back. I got another sensor and it's been fine for months now. So you can try UN-plugging the sensor and take for a gentle drive, I.E. little or no boost. If it seems better, get a new sensor and try that. BTW, our 140k mile, 1985 HA still has the original knock sensor.

 

[bison]

According to your posts you never checked for spark.


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[NorCalTurbos]

I drive a v-6, 96 Beretta. Your brief description sounds a similar to a gremlin that owned me most of last summer.
My car idled fine and cold, ran fine too. But after about 3-5 minutes, I'd give it a little throttle and it would stumble.
In some cases it would actually feel like the ignition cut out. If I pushed harder on the accelerator it would then accelerate
but it didn't seem to have normal power. I changed every sensor, TPS, MAP, MAF, IAT and coolant sensor. I changed ignition module, coils, plugs and wires. Tested fuel pressure and regulator. Even got a new EGR valve. I changed out the ECM too.
Finally, I read that spark knock sensors can become sensitive when they get old and that it could be retarding the timing when
it shouldn't be. I disconnected it and the car ran better. While it was disconnected, I did not push the car hard. So I got a new sensor and the car ran great. But after two weeks the problem came back. I got another sensor and it's been fine for months now. So you can try UN-plugging the sensor and take for a gentle drive, I.E. little or no boost. If it seems better, get a new sensor and try that. BTW, our 140k mile, 1985 HA still has the original knock sensor.

My block came with no knock sensor from an 83 turbo regal I recently tapped the hole and put a brand new sensor in now my sm is reading knock at mid throttle but the car still runs as it did before I'm starting to think I need to adjust my cam sensor a bit I know they say it won't alter timing but when I first hot it started the cs was 180 out it was pig rich blowing basically raw fuel out the tail pipes I popped it out and flipped it and that fixed it maybe it's close just not right I did the whole 25 ATDC on compression stroke and everything

 

[NorCalTurbos]

Unplug the o2 sensor. That will lock it in open loop. See if that makes any difference.

I thought Eric's chips stay in open loop but I'm willing to try anything at this point, thanks

 

[NorCalTurbos]

According to your posts you never checked for spark.


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I'm gonna do some tests on it today I don't wanna tow it to a shop that knows nothing about these cars. I live in Cali the one guy I trusted fell off the face of the earth. Mike Fagetta.... Thanks for any info or ideas I'm open to all suggestions

 

[NorCalTurbos]

I'm gonna try to post a video of what's going on soon

 

[TurboBuRick]

TT chips are open loop idle. When you hit the gas they go into closed loop.

 

[NorCalTurbos]

Ok finally the bad shake under load stopped after adjusting the cam sensor it stopped I have a new post about broken cam sensors the one I'm using is missing the shim ring above the gear also I don't think it was all the way down before which caused it to shake. Now I can coast up the street but if I throttle into it it misses and begs me to let off or it will die out I think I need a new cam sensor