GN as a daily driver. Opinions Needed

[bishir]

First of all I'd like to say thank you for your help in directing me as to what to look for when purchasing a Grand National. The replies were almost instantaneous.

I would like to get some opinions about having a Grand National as a Daily Driver. Mine will be my daily driver when I buy it. As I said in an earlier post my budget will be from 12-13K. I'm finding I can find a nice low mileage stock car for that price. Speaking of stock, what modifications are actually conducive to improving a daily driver while at the same time adding reasonable performance gains?

I'm really trying to find out as much as I can before I make a purchase. I jumped right in when I bought my Mustang, and I've regretted that ever since.

I'm also noticing that most of you run premium fuel. Is this a requirement with a stock Grand National? Please let me know what to what out for when shopping for a DD.. Thanks,

James

PS, what does TTT mean?

 

[bob86gn]

Premium fuel is a requirement. My car never sees less than 94 and typically 100. If you are mature enough to ALWAYS keep your foot out of it you will be ok on a lower grade. If I lived to be 100 I would never be that mature. Keep it safe, detonation KILLS these cars.
I am in the process of replacing head gaskets = not fun.

Good luck.

 

[bishir]

94? I don't even know where to find that around here. What do you use? Octane Boost?

 

[bob86gn]

Sunoco Ultra 94 Unleaded
Sunoco GT 100 Unleaded

 

[Chad Oliver]

TTT: to the top or take this turd if you see it in the 4sale section.

 

[bishir]

Isn't that a little confusing? BTW, thanks for letting me know!

 

[d0n_3d]

you can run 93 octane all day as long as you don't boost over 15 lbs because then it will start to detonate and cause damage to your engine...i shall be running on 110 leaded fuel all day soon but that is because i have lots of mods and i am a boost happy 19 year old that isn't as patient waiting behind a car in front of me

 

[bishir]

Forgive my ignorance, but what is the max boost for a stock GN?

 

[Dan Thompson]

I use my GN as a daily drive until I got the truck.

The one thing I was glad I changed was the MAF. It can die anytime and then you can unplug it and get home. I never had to do this, but I was close.

The translator +, which translates the siginal from a LT-1 or LS-1 MAF to the GN computer and an Extender Chip with anti-theft, valet mode, and performance IMO are just fine for a daily drive.

My sign does not show the mods as I have just finish the smog test and have not re-installed the mods. The pictures on the website show most of them.

 

[bishir]

So is the MAF the Air and Fuel sensor, or just air flow? So you changed the GN MAF to a LS1 or an LT1 type, and to do this you needed a translator? Still learning.... What was wrong with the GN MAF?

BTW, is there something on-line that decodes all of the acronyms people use around here?

Thanks again

 

[TurboT2496]

GN as Daily Driver

Depends on how much you love the car. If you really love the car then the negatives are not that big a deal. Using it as a daily driver is not a real good ideal if it can be avoided.

Negatives

1. Fuel requirements-- really need to run high octane fuel in the beast or your asking for trouble. As much octane as you can get. 91 at the very minimum.

2. Security -- These cars are a thief magnet. You'll need to have multiple theft prevention items on the car if you hope to keep it.

3. Attention -- You will get alot of attention in the car some good and some bad. People seem to have a little trouble keeping their hands off it and local police might show a desire to get to know you better. They are also door ding magnets. Try to watch who you park next to.

4. Parts -- As far as daily drivers and dependability is concerned these cars ain't hondas etc. and parts depending on what goes are somewhat expensive and may take time to get leaving you without wheels for a day or two. You also might have a little trouble trusting your local mechanic with the car unless he's has alot of experience with them.

5. Mileage -- You might be able to get 20+ mpg out of it but expect alot less if you have your foot in it alot and drive alot of around town miles.

Positives

1. Attention -- hey its a two way street

2. Roomy -- Pleny o room for passengers

3. Performance -- Yeahh Baby

4. Originality -- Nice to be able to tell which car is yours when ya leave Wal-mart

5. Parts -- They have some really cooooooollll stuff for these cars.

6. Mileage -- is dam good for a perfomance car

Not the most economical car to have for a daily driver but if your only option though to have one is that it has to be your daily driver I say go for it.

 

[stickybones]

Where do you live? They suck in the snow. That's why I have a Jeep also.

 

[salvageV6]

4 blizzak snow tires on the car and you will rock on in the snow.

Gotta race SUV's off the light all winter.

 

[Dan Thompson]

bishir

MAF is mass air flow, MAT is air temp

The computer can not understand the output of the LS-1 and LT-1 MAF signals. The translator, electrically, sets between the MAF and the computer and "translates" the signal into information the computer can understand.

PLUS you can tune the fuel and spark at idle and WOT (wide open throttle).

I just sent you an e-mail with some pictures. The size is at 50%, so you can make them bigger to see the details.

HTH

 

[bishir]

I live in Pensacola, Florida so I'm not worried about snow. As for fuel and attention issues, my 69 Mustang Convertible has been my daily driver for about 4 months now. Almost anything has to be better than a non a/c car with black interior in a Florida summer. I usually buy 93 Octane for the Mustang because of it's higher compression so that won't be a huge change for me. I really appreciate the replies and the help. I never take a car to a mechanic unless it's absolutely necessary. Thats why I must determine if I can work on this car or not. It seems pretty straight forward. Not much different than the Mass air setup on my brother's 89 Mustang. More complicated than my Mustang? Yes, but think I can handle it.

Again thanks for the help!

James

 

[salvageV6]

I'd get one with the A/C in tip top shape with the factory R12 still in it if I were you in FLA.

Get the service manual for it 86-87 at $75 is the best money spent on the car.

Other than that start driving, reading and learning.

An extra 2K for mods. and repair parts is always helpful.

You will like the car, most of the time anyway.

 

[bishir]

Wouldn't it be better to get a car that has already been converted to 134a? That way it can still be recharged if necessary. I know it's not as cold, but what is it costing to have a R12 system converted or recharged? BTW, a/c is a requirement for any car I buy from now on. As for diagnostics I'd definitely buy a code scanner and any shop manuals avaliable.

Thanks for the reply!

James

 

[salvageV6]

Not in FLA. It's been 90-100 up here all week and the 134 car just barely cuts it. After a good 10 minutes of MAX air the outlet temps. are only 52 or so. Feels good but not all that cold.

I will drive the R12 car when it's this hot and humid. Outlet Temps. are in the 40's all the time in that car.

85-90 degree days the outlet temps. are about 48-49 in the 134 car and are fine.

FLA. stick with R12.

A good use of the second thermocouple input in my EGT meter.

 

[bishir]

I've read something here about Freeze 12. Is that an option too on R12 cars?