GN Un-build?

[Mike E]

Fuel system is done. I'm taking a little risk here for an experiment. I had a -10 feed and -8 return before with the fuelab pump before. I've always built overkill in a fuel system, but that may have been going to far. My last mustang made 600 at the wheels with a single -6 line returnless system. Will a single -8 feed 950 flywheel hp? I'm going to find out. I'm also not dual feeding the fuel rails. Big hp efi cars make 2500 hp feeding 8 x 160lb/hr injectors on a single fuel rail on each side, I'm doing less than that with 6 in basically one rail. I have the y-block and lines to dual feed later if I find issues on the dyno.



The tank is a stock replacement GN tank, with twin 340lph racetronix pumps, -8 feed to a holley 175gph (660lph) 10 micron e85 safe filter, -8 to the passenger rail, a -8 crossover, then my weldon 2040 regulator to a -6 return running through a GM flex fuel sensor. I had intended to do stainless hardline, but without pulling the body off the frame, it just wasn't going to be practical. I would have had 6 feet of hardline max and added more joints to leak. The body wont' come up off the frame at all with the cage in the car.



From back to front.

Both lines run inside the frame all the way up front and out the stock hole in the crossmember.

 

[Mike E]

It was so nice outside today I opened up the garage door and had too find something to do.

I used to have two 1/2 npt tapped holes with -10 fitting threaded into the front plate. That meant I had to RTV the plate to the belt drive. Last time I put it back together it leaked. The belt drive has -10 o-ring threads in it, but because of the front plate, I can't use a normal fitting. So, I made my own. I cut bigger holes in the front plate to pass the new fittings through.

That is the last custom machined part. If it's not too expensive, I'm going to gather up all the machined parts and have them hard anodized black.

 

[Mike E]

Not a lot of progress lately. I sent 90% of my machined parts off to be anodized. I can't do a lot until most of that stuff gets back.



I did re-do my water pump feed. I had a rubber hose on it that I found at the auto parts store that was close, but not perfect. I never did like it. So, I made a perfect fitting one from stainless tube and some silicone clamps.

My old header crossover hit the new bellhousing, so I remade it. I used a burns double slip this time instead of a bellows. I like the fit, just hope it seals up.

I've got all the a/c parts except the lines. I'll order the parts to make them as soon as I get all the components mounted.

I found a factory accessory bracket and bought one of the billet tensioners. Other than the fact that it looks like a wiring bomb went off, It's starting to look like a stock GN under the hood again.

 

[Mike E]

Pretty anodized car parts. I sent them off last Friday and got them back today.

 

[Squid4life]

That anodizing looks killer! I dislike the blue/red AN fitting and thought about anodizing a bunch of parts black but was curious how pricey it would be. Do you mind sharing what it cost for all those parts in the pic?

Loving this build/unbuild still. Top notch as usual!

 

[Mike E]

Everything in that photo was less than the minimum charge of $90. This is plain black anodizing, not hardcoat. Hardcoat would be $120 minimum charge. I'm not sure how far under the min. I was.

I had this done by Protech Metal Finishing in Vonore, TN and even with shipping back and forth it was less than a week. The finish is nicer than the AN fittings I have bought and seems more durable.

 

[34blazer]

There needs to be a "Jealous" button on here. I'm so PB n Jealous right now. LOL

 

[Mike E]

I got all the anodized parts put back on today. I also started on my remaking my intercooler and air filter tubes (for the 3rd time).



I don't know why Baer didn't anodize this cap to match the hub, but it looks better now. Better than the cheap center caps that weld gives with the wheels.

Fuel rails and every fuel fitting that I modified is now redone in black anodize. No issues with E85 now.

Pulleys all back on. That is an a/c delete pulley on there now where the compressor would be. I bought the sanden compressor and have to make some adapter brackets for it to work on the stock accessory bracket.

Thermostat housing and cam sync bracket are also now black.

Shock brackets and rearend fill cap are black now.

Starting on the tubing work. Hope to knock the rest out tomorrow.

 

[DCVING 6]

Probably hard for you to tell but do you think those wheels and particular backspace would fit without a frame notch?

 

[tbone87]

Dang mike can u make me a bracket for a bracket to use my other bracket!! U the man. Face it u like making stuff!!

 

[Mike E]

Probably hard for you to tell but do you think those wheels and particular backspace would fit without a frame notch?

I'm definitely using the notch, the wheel and tire are about 3/8" past where the stock frame would have been. The reared is also a custom width, so back spacing is different than it would be on a stock rear.

 

[Mike E]

Dang mike can u make me a bracket for a bracket to use my other bracket!! U the man. Face it u like making stuff!!

I know, it's a sickness.

 

[Instro84]

nice, fab up a couple of those compressor mounts

 

[Nasty Wendy]

This is a dream car. Nice work.

 

[Mike E]

Got the intercooler tubes redone. The downpipe still fits. That's probably the first part that I've been able to just put back on without modifying.

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Im sure a lot of us will be doing the same thing in the years to come. Looks freakin good man!

 

[hemi8]

Thanks for the pics!! Mike is the trick timing belt the reason you are having to custom fabricate all the front accessory pieces? If you were to build another S2 would you use a gear drive or maybe a timing chain?

Mike

 

[Mike E]

Yes, the timing belt makes most everything custom. The electric water pump and belt drive oil pump are more the issue than the belt drive. I wouldn't mind having a stock style front cover with a stock water pump and oil pump for simplicity.

For me, the belt drive was insurance for my crank. When I decided to have a billet crank made, I didn't want to risk damaging it by breaking a timing chain or issues with a gear drive. I'm sticking with my solid roller setup for now and run quite a bit of spring pressure, so I'm still glad I have the belt drive. I may try to find a way to put a belt drive water pump on it in the future. I still might tun the motor up in the future if the 6 speed can take it. I'm not anywhere near what the motor has the potential to make with a bigger turbo.

 

[cbar_tx]

Yes, the timing belt makes most everything custom...

Damn Mike thats a badass build. I know the thread is kinda old but could you post some details on your ac compressor and lines setup plz? I'm trying to figure out what to do for the under hood part of my vintage air install.