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Gn wont start, need help

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Tfreestyle

Member
Joined
May 24, 2007
Messages
102
Ive been forced to drive my GN daily for a couple weeks while my audi is getting worked on. The GN has been running well except I got a code 41 last week for the cam sensor. it came on and off a few times while driving, the car always restarted after though. I bought caspers tool and realigned the cam sensor that was in there and that worked for about a day until the light came back on and the car wouldnt restart when I got to school one day. I got the car restarted and drove it home. The car seemed to be working fine the next day(last thursday) so I drove it to school. It sat over the weekend and this morning wouldnt start. I went and installed the new cam sensor. It started right up no problems. I turn the car off to add alittle oil and top off the coolant since I disconnected the small coolant line off the water pump. I go to restart the car and it wont start again. wtf is going on???

The motor only has about 300 miles on it and a new walbro was installed at the same time. Archie at GN1 performance rebuilt it with forged internals including crank, I had brought it to him with basically the same problems it was having now which makes me VERY suspicious but I was told by the previous owner that it had spun a bearing in the past and they just threw new bearings in there(found this out after I bought the car kinda got screwed I guess). never has worked 100% right since I picked it up from archie though after dishing out about 6k for everything and its still leaking oil, missing the torque converter cover and he cracked my windshield. Had brought the car back to fix the oil leak and the torque converter cover I guess he never did put the torque converter cover back on(pretty pissed and does anyone have a spare I could buy?). A week after that my turbo blew, not sure if it was just on its way out or its because he reinstalled the stock turbo oil line and not the turbo saver relocated filter I had on there before. Has new translator and ls1 maf. Turbotweak chip with 55lb injectors and newer modded ecm. tps is at .40-.42.

The car just turns over, not firing(fuel not igniting, im not very good at terms sometimes). I have no clue what else could be wrong. please help because I need to get the car running so I can actually get to school.
 
I kinda want to get the problem fixed without having to pay someone. If it doesnt start by tomorrow im going to tow it into my auto shop class and have the teacher look at it.

I have a place in sun valley to do the windshield for 95 installed. I JUSTTTT had it replaced 3 weeks before bringing the car to archie and he cracked it and denied that he cracked it. im waiting to replace the windshield till after I finish the repaint.
 
I kinda want to get the problem fixed without having to pay someone. If it doesnt start by tomorrow im going to tow it into my auto shop class and have the teacher look at it.

I have a place in sun valley to do the windshield for 95 installed. I JUSTTTT had it replaced 3 weeks before bringing the car to archie and he cracked it and denied that he cracked it. im waiting to replace the windshield till after I finish the repaint.

When you push the hood back when pulling the motor you need to watch how far you go. It's easy to crack it if your not being carefull.
Pull the cam sensor out and look at it. ;)
 
I installed the cam sensor myself today with a new unit. used caspers cam setting tool.
 
Hey man walked me through the process of how you install that Cam sensor. Mine is having the same problem. It will not restart for a while after i shut it off. I was think maybe it is the module, coil pack or cam sensor. But if yours is having the same problem and it was the cam sensor then chances are my cam sensor is going as well. Where did you get and how much did you pay for the new cam sensor?
 
ill go out and check all the fuses but its been an ongoing problem so I dont think its any fuses.

It might still be the coil pack or something else. Obviously the cam sensor really didnt work 100%. doesnt really make sense it would be the coilpack(atleast to me) since it has been running well as long as it started. Even with the code 41 it still ran decent. I got the cam sensor for 120 overnighted from a guy in the classifieds, ill look up his screen name in a minute. its 100 shipped if you dont need it overnighted.
 
mine was doing something similar after having motorout. double check all connections mine turned out to be crank sensor plug in not all the way seated. good luck
 
ok so I decide to just scan the car with my real scan tool. Whenever you put the key to the on position before cranking the check engine light blinks once and stays on and the volt light is on. I think that is normal for the TT chip? not sure. Well I scan the car and nothing comes up and I just decide lets try one last time(always on the last time) it actually STARTEDDDDD. this time I dont turn it off haha. Im learning about scanmaster readings but really dont know much about it yet, came with the car when I got it, mainly have only used it for the malfunction codes and rpm since I have digital dash but here is what it said at idle...
02 402
AF 07
l8 43
bat 14.0
int 128
bl 128
clt 106
ats 65
rpm 900
tps .40
iac 05
cc started around 18 progressively higher to 230
mal 00

through my gauges the oil pressure was 70psi, Vac 13-14 and a pretty rough idle

I let the car warm up for like 6-7 minutes and here is what I got

02 all over the place, as low as 170 as high as about 890-900, man it was everywhere
AF 06
L8 38-44
Bat 13.7-13.9
Int 123-132
BL 117
clt 162
ats 66
rpm 850-950
tps. .40-.42
iac 00
cc 01 to about 240 faster rising then when first started
mal 00

30psi oil pressure
vac 14-15
temp 160-165
much smoother idle but still alittle rough.

ideas on whats going on? the car restarted again after I turned it off this time.
 
did you clear the code by disconnecting the orange wire that goes to the battery ? ( the one with the fuse:D ) my buick went down friday night but my mech, came and got her running,
 
no codes are popping up it seems. thats what I did originally to get her started last week to drive home. as you can see from the scanmaster readings "mal 00" and I used my normal scanner with nothing coming up.
 
ok so I decide to just scan the car with my real scan tool. Whenever you put the key to the on position before cranking the check engine light blinks once and stays on and the volt light is on. I think that is normal for the TT chip? not sure. Well I scan the car and nothing comes up and I just decide lets try one last time(always on the last time) it actually STARTEDDDDD. this time I dont turn it off haha. Im learning about scanmaster readings but really dont know much about it yet, came with the car when I got it, mainly have only used it for the malfunction codes and rpm since I have digital dash but here is what it said at idle...
02 402
AF 07
l8 43
bat 14.0
int 128
bl 128
clt 106
ats 65
rpm 900
tps .40
iac 05
cc started around 18 progressively higher to 230
mal 00

through my gauges the oil pressure was 70psi, Vac 13-14 and a pretty rough idle

I let the car warm up for like 6-7 minutes and here is what I got

02 all over the place, as low as 170 as high as about 890-900, man it was everywhere normal
AF 06 should be about 4-5
L8 38-44
Bat 13.7-13.9
Int 123-132
BL 117 should be about 128 +/-
clt 162
ats 66
rpm 850-950
tps. .40-.42
iac 00 should be cycling
cc 01 to about 240 faster rising then when first started
mal 00

30psi oil pressure
vac 14-15
temp 160-165
much smoother idle but still alittle rough.

ideas on whats going on? the car restarted again after I turned it off this time.

MAF might be going- also check the IAC.
 
the maf is suppose to be brand new from archie and he sure as hell charged me for a new one. How do you check the IAC exactly?
 
the maf is suppose to be brand new from archie and he sure as hell charged me for a new one. How do you check the IAC exactly?

The IAC is the "Idle Air Control" located below the throttle body it's that black looking thing with the plug in it. Unscrew that be very careful you don't crack it, it's plastic. Once out, spray it down with carb clean. ;) That might not be your problem but its always good to do anyway. ;)
 
thanks for everyones help. After the car randomly started working it hasnt had any real problems. The IAC and BL went to normal when I actually drove the car. I forgot about the AF.

Here is the weird thing though. The CEL has come on a few times for code 41 again but it has only happened when I have been slowing down kinda. Twice when I was getting off my exit for school and once when I was getting off the exit coming back from school(I only drive the school to and from school right now). The light has come on and went off within a minute or will stay for a few minutes, seems like the car is running the same though.
 
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