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GNX Body Bushing Alignment

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Heg87t

Slightly Compressed User
Joined
Mar 18, 2006
Messages
1,056
Hey,

What started with one bushing repair now has all the body bushings out. Looking at the #5 location for the GNX bushing I have a question. Should the hole in the frame line-up with the smaller hole in the body which I am guessing is for the small knob on the top of the bushing? If these two holes should line up then my body needs to move 1/2 to 3/4 inches rearward. :confused:

All you guys with rest free cars make sure you give your car a big hug tonight. RUST SUCKS!!!
 
Hey,

What started with one bushing repair now has all the body bushings out. Looking at the #5 location for the GNX bushing I have a question. Should the hole in the frame line-up with the smaller hole in the body which I am guessing is for the small knob on the top of the bushing? If these two holes should line up then my body needs to move 1/2 to 3/4 inches rearward. :confused:

All you guys with rest free cars make sure you give your car a big hug tonight. RUST SUCKS!!!

kirban 2 cents worth

A body shop with a frame rack would be able to tell you just how far off center your car body is from the frame. You are seeing it first hand as you mention above.

It also becomes well known when you step up to 16 by 8 wheels and install 255/50s on the back. Most owners then notice that one tire is closer to the
outer frame rail than the other.

My point? Most cars are not on the frame exactly straight, this is even more true afte 22-23 years some have had more abuse than others.

You need that bushing to seat. Screws into the one end and the tit seats in the other.

Your rite about rust it becomes more evident if you are unfortunate enough to have one of those grde 8 bolts snap or spin the cage nut....that happens its at least $75 to $100 to cut into the floor and weld another cage nut in place.

Good luck....remember profanity don't usually accomplish the job any quicker.

kirbanperformance.com

denniskirban@yahoo.com

Owned a few of these cars and sell the GNX bushings....
 
Huh. Sounds like you have delt with a rusty car before!! :biggrin:

I currently have three access holes cut in the trunk floor to hold the spinning cage nuts.
Broke off LH # 3 bolt.
The piece of reinforcement with the nut on RH # 4 broke off and fell out when I started jacking the body up.

:frown: :frown: :frown: I had a gut feeling if I put a socket on these bolts trouble would follow.

Hmmm. I will have to ponder your comment about profanity for a while... I have a whole drawer in my tool box just to store the different sizes! :eek:

Sounds like I will have to figure out how to pull the body forward. I was just going to use a tape measure and the body pinch weld on the sides to get it lined up as close as I can to the body.

Well I am too far into it now to stop...
 
kirban 2 cents worth

As for rust as a rule I don't run off to michigan often for cars to buy. Not singling out Michigan as I can name a few other states just as bad or worse for rust issues.

On a positive note if you are doing it yourself you are saving a lot of money and the end result will be a ride difference that will be a very noticeable improvement than before.

Good luck

kirbanperformance.com

denniskirban@yahoo.com

I have never had to repair any of these that break lose however,, my son has done several for local customers since it involves welding. Real bad rust conditions require rear frame rails to be replaced as dirt stays trapped in the back. Dirt translates into moisture accumulating over a period of time.
 
Yup, I learned my lesson. I will go out west for another body if I get another turbo car. It would have been A LOT easier to swap the entire drive train, wiring, etc from my car into a clean body with all the fixing I have had to do.

I just have to keep telling myself it will be better when the work is done. Thanks for the encouragement & tips. Maybe a good hard launch out of the barn would move the body back!
 
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