Dont know if anyone saw my thread from a month or so ago, saying my alky stopped working. Turned it out was what I suspected. My pump seized up from the tank being dry and corrosion flakes floating around in there getting sucked in. This kit I bought used...its VERY old but Ive done alot to make it like new. After an hour of flushing over and over and over with penetrant (there was SO much crap in that pump...tons of black ooze coming out) and gradually working the gears loose, I got the motor up and running again and spinning alot faster than it used to. Because the original pressure switch had broken probably a year ago, I had rewired/replumbed everything to run it without the switch. i figured I could live with the lack of a "spray on" light until I got another switch. All worked ok until I ran the tank dry for a few months, and found it was dead. Today I ended up throwing on an old pressure switch I had for my kenne bell boost a pump. Its the later model, metal design of a switch instead of that plastic lever kind. Its a 3.5psi switch, but I figured what could be wrong with that...I just need to know when the line is pressurized. While hitting the prime button, all was ok. "Spray on" light comes on when I hit it, engine bogs and the up-pipe starts to freeze over. But I took it for a spin, nailed it, and the car fell on its face immediately. I stopped and brake torqued the boost up, and found the "spray on" light was kicking on at 4psi instead of the 12-14 it was doing before. I turned the spray point knob up a full turn, and it still turned on at 4psi.
So I guess my question is...is there anything other than the vacuum line going to the controller, that can prematurely trigger the pump to turn on? Im almost positive everything is wired right. I checked all the grounds and they're ok. All the wiring is new and done correctly....in theory.
Ive got the positive and negative running to the pump (black and red). The white is running to the low level switch RCA plug, and from that it goes to a body ground. The green wire is running to the pressure switch, and from there to a body ground. All the plumbing is right, and everything is upgraded to SMC (not SMC alky) quick release fittings and kick ass hosing and everything else is done right. Its the old SMC model with the round bottle, but I made a bracket and mounted it behind the pass. side headlight like that later kits.
Do I need to wire the pressure switch and low level switch in series? I dont see why I would have to, but I dont know how this controller is designed.
I wont be pulling the kit off, so any help I can get to figure this out on my own would be greatly appreciated.
So I guess my question is...is there anything other than the vacuum line going to the controller, that can prematurely trigger the pump to turn on? Im almost positive everything is wired right. I checked all the grounds and they're ok. All the wiring is new and done correctly....in theory.
Ive got the positive and negative running to the pump (black and red). The white is running to the low level switch RCA plug, and from that it goes to a body ground. The green wire is running to the pressure switch, and from there to a body ground. All the plumbing is right, and everything is upgraded to SMC (not SMC alky) quick release fittings and kick ass hosing and everything else is done right. Its the old SMC model with the round bottle, but I made a bracket and mounted it behind the pass. side headlight like that later kits.
Do I need to wire the pressure switch and low level switch in series? I dont see why I would have to, but I dont know how this controller is designed.
I wont be pulling the kit off, so any help I can get to figure this out on my own would be greatly appreciated.