Having a problem keeping 13+ volts after LED dash install

[jerod]

Guys, I need help fast. I'm moving and need my car running soon. I installed a custom LED gauge setup recently and everything has been fine until now. The car was running at 13.5v consistently and now it'd down to 9-11.4v when on. When off with the key on, it's 11.9-12v. I just pulled into my garage and it almost wouldn't start, it cranked really slow like a dead battery, and it kind of hesitated on acceleration. The battery and a lot are new and I fixed an initial wiring mistake by connecting the pink/black wire to the brown alt wire behind the gauges. I didn't keep the resistor from the bulb between the two and wonder if that caused damage to the regulator. I fixed that by soldering the bulb with resistor between them and then charged my battery, but it's still only running at 11'ish volts.

My questions are: There are two pink wires with black stripes on the wiring harness that I cut, how do I know which one is the right one to use?

The other wires, which connect the water, volts, cruise, etc that aren't being used now are just snipped. Do they need connected to grounds or the pink/black wire to close any loops?

It's weird because it ran fine for 700 miles after I put this car together and then it sat for a week. The last time out, it was night be the time I left for home so I had the lights on, and it ran down so low in voltage that it was almost ready to die. It went down to around 7v! I had to drive home with the lights turned off. When I did that, it would climb up to around 10v but nothing more. That was when I started looking over my wiring and learned about the resistor in the bulb.

I also switched the brown wire to the other pink/black wire hoping to see any change, but I did not. Here are pics for reference. The two wires I'm using are standing up straight in the second and third photos.

 

[v6turbo87]

The alternator needs the "volt" bulb to complete the field circuit and start it charging. Caspers Electronics sells a "field fix" that should fix your problem.

 

[v6turbo87]

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=618

 

[jerod]

Awesome! So with this, will I need to keep the brown and pink/black wire connected with the bulb housing? Oh, I just remembered....I only have the housing connected and no bulb in there because it stayed lit up. So I should put the bulb back in and track down why it stays lit correct?

 

[garyk1970]

Yep. Pink wire feeds + volts through the brown wire to Alt....
The bulb with the blue filiment is the key...
Install bulb temporary then use field fix

 

[jerod]

I'm buying the field fix now, but when that is installed, shouldn't I also keep the bulb in place? Or can I go back to wiring that straight wire to wire like I originally had? I don't mind keeping it wired like it is now (with adding the bulb back) but that bulb stays on and those get really hot.

 

[garyk1970]

I've never used one, but I understand it replaces bulb

 

[v6turbo87]

If you have the field fix you don't need any other wiring from the dash cluster. If you need more info call John at Caspers and he will help you out.

 

[jerod]

Thanks. One last question about this.

Until I get the field fix, I need to wire this up right. There are two pink/black wires coming from the harness. Which one do I use, and how would I even tell which one is right? Or are they both right and can use either one?

 

[jerod]

Well I think I found my problem. I took the alt off to have it tested (again), and heard something rattling inside. This piece fell out so I'm picking up another one in an hour. Hope that solves things.

 

[Raeban]

Either one of those pink/blk wires should supply 12V with the ignition on so that shouldn't make a difference. When you wired them directly to the brown wire with no bulb or resistor you can damage the alternator. The field fix supplies 12V ignition power to the regulator on a different circuit in the alternator that doesn't require the resistance that the lamp circuit does. Options are:

1. Buy a field fix
2. Use the lamp between the pnk/blk & brown wire
3. Wire a 470 ohm-1/2W resistor inline b/n the pnk/blk & brn wire
4. Change the wiring at the back of the alternator to supply 12V ign power to the "F" or field terminal.

Option 1 is the easiest and simplest way and retains the use of the volt light for those that don't have/want to watch a volt gauge.

 

[jerod]

Thanks, I got it back running correctly by swapping out the alt and putting the bulb with resistor between wires. I'll be getting the field fix though, I just need to get back on the road for an important car show this weekend.