Head Gasket Install W/ARP Studs....questions.

Stamos

Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2014
Hello, first time doing head gaskets on my GN. I'm upgrading to Champion irons and ARP studs during the rebuild.

Here's what I know to do:
1. Hand tighten the studs
2. Use thread sealer on studs that go into coolant passages
3. Verify torque value after studs "settle" roughly three hours (or so) after initial torque
4. Use ARP supplied lube to achieve torque value
5. Chase the threads before install with 7/16 - 4 chaser

Here's what I'm not sure of:
1. I'm using the GM graphite head gaskets (PN: GM 25528486) do I need to coat with copper spray prior to install?
2. Where do the short studs get installed on either cylinder head?

My combo is in my sig.

Thanks in advance!
 
Don’t use any sealer on the gaskets. The short studs go on the exhaust side of the head. The lower four nearest to the exhaust
 
All the head studs need sealant. I like Yamabond.

With studs and a graphite gasket, there's really no reason to wait. Just torque cycle them a few times and let them go. Those VR/factory gaskets are pretty easy to make a good seal.

After you chase the holes, chuck up a wire brush in a drill motor and give the threads a good cleaning.

With those gaskets, either way is work, but I usually use copper coat on stuff I build for myself. Since you're not using freshly machined (to perfection) brand new surfaces, it won't hurt, but it might help.

The only thing you left off the list is to get some countersinks and bevel the hell out of the head bolt holes, and deck holes. That will spread the load out away from the fasteners and help with even clamping force.


...and pop a GM seal tab in the radiator when you bust it off (no antifreeze until after a few heat cycles and the seal has proven itself)
 
Add a extra arp washer to the 4 mid length studs. The studs are a lil too long
Watch for this for sure, good info given. I followed pretty much what Earl posted for cleaning the threads, used permatex #2 though with no issues.
 
You can order washers. Pretty sure summit or jegs sells them separately.
Earl gives some pretty rock solid advice. I like blue loctite gel on the studs but yamabond is some good shit.
The only thing I would do different is use a mls gasket like cometic. You can bet your bottom dollar you will blow that vr gasket if you plan on making any real power. Now watch the lynch mob come tell you they run 30psi boost with it and have no problems. Lol
 
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All the head studs need sealant. I like Yamabond.

With studs and a graphite gasket, there's really no reason to wait. Just torque cycle them a few times and let them go. Those VR/factory gaskets are pretty easy to make a good seal.

After you chase the holes, chuck up a wire brush in a drill motor and give the threads a good cleaning.

With those gaskets, either way is work, but I usually use copper coat on stuff I build for myself. Since you're not using freshly machined (to perfection) brand new surfaces, it won't hurt, but it might help.

The only thing you left off the list is to get some countersinks and bevel the hell out of the head bolt holes, and deck holes. That will spread the load out away from the fasteners and help with even clamping force.


...and pop a GM seal tab in the radiator when you bust it off (no antifreeze until after a few heat cycles and the seal has proven itself)
quick question earl ... what number yamabond seen 4 and 5 on the tube or the 6b
 
Ok so there are three different length studs. The short ones go on the bottom, where do the mid-length and longest lengths go? Sorry for so many questions. I want to get this right the first time.

Thanks!
 

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Grad the head gaskets from RJC and bump the compression. Chase the threads and use a sealer that's oil/antifreeze resistant. Hand tighten the bolts in. Follow torque procedures.
 
Thanks for the link, cant believe I missed that.

So, make sure I have less than 10 threads protruding above the nut. If 10 or > double up on the washers to ensure the nut isn't bottoming out before reaching the torque spec. I didn't see anybody comment on the locations of the longest studs or is that irrelevant as long as they are not on the bottom locations?
 
Thanks for the link, cant believe I missed that.

So, make sure I have less than 10 threads protruding above the nut. If 10 or > double up on the washers to ensure the nut isn't bottoming out before reaching the torque spec. I didn't see anybody comment on the locations of the longest studs or is that irrelevant as long as they are not on the bottom locations?
Once the heads are on and studs in place, its blatently obvious the ones that need the two washers there way more thread sticking up
 
So how many of these extra washers do I need for steel 8445 heads and ARP studs ?
 
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