header crack welding

vader6

Turbo Buick enthusiast
Joined
Jul 21, 2006
Anyone recommend a Buick friendly welder around Chicago (or reasonably close) that knows what they are doing with stock headers?? I want to do this one time without a hack job. Thanks...
 
Let me know I would like to know when I need to do it. Because I know I will need it.
 
^^^^^Unfortunately it wont be your last weld up, ive done it 5x before the replacements.
 
before you go to weld it, post a picture of the crack. Some headers are beyond repair.
 
mine was welded in 2017 it looks terrible
I will be getting The gee m headers from Finland in the future and be done
wish I could find a Terry Houston down pipe as well
 
mine was welded in 2017 it looks terrible
I will be getting The gee m headers from Finland in the future and be done
wish I could find a Terry Houston down pipe as well

Might want to go with some TA stock replacements instead. There have been some issues with those headers lately. THDP will come up for sale just need to be ready to buy because they go quick.


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i had local welding shops refuse to do the repair...said it wouldn't work. well i wouldn't want them to do it if they don't have the belief. so i sent off to vendor, got it back and could see pin holes in the weld WTF....went to local muffler shop to repair pin holes...pm if you want to know who...won't post on the board
 
I used to just take mine to a muffler shop with a 6 pack of beer 10 minutes before closing time.


Worked for almost a decade of daily driving 100 miles a day.


Welding a crack ain't rocket ship.
 
to do this right where you won't be RE-DOING the weld .. its a few hour job .. its not trivial .. a 5 min hit it with a mig and call it good doesn't work

If done correctly .. they will never crack again.. the aftermarket ones crack too
 
This is what mine looked like and goes all the way around. I went with the TA drivers side header and after the initial “sticker shock” feel like the new replacement was the way to go. No leaks and no complaints.
 

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to do this right where you won't be RE-DOING the weld .. its a few hour job

How in the world can you drag that weld job out to a few hours? Heat cycles with an industrial oven?

When I welded mine in '98 There was gunk on it that wouldn't let the weld act right. We burned that off with a torch then welded it. 100,000 miles later, it had a small bad spot so I fixed that and added a triangle (6 pack of beer at the muffler shop). It never cracked again.

Got some used stock ceramic coated headers off Ebay around 2000 with a small crack. Welded in a triangle with a MIG. Hasn't cracked yet.
 
How in the world can you drag that weld job out to a few hours? Heat cycles with an industrial oven?

When I welded mine in '98 There was gunk on it that wouldn't let the weld act right. We burned that off with a torch then welded it. 100,000 miles later, it had a small bad spot so I fixed that and added a triangle (6 pack of beer at the muffler shop). It never cracked again.

Got some used stock ceramic coated headers off Ebay around 2000 with a small crack. Welded in a triangle with a MIG. Hasn't cracked yet.

HUH .. it's not dragging it out .. it's doing it right ... Guess we just do things different .. My way -> I want a clean weld inside and out.. so bead blast it in and out ... Fab and add in a stainless gusset .. back purge and tig weld it ... then have a few beers while admiring my work.. guarantee it doesn't come back for re-welding or further cracks.

Your way 6 pack of beer - muffler shop - Mig ... Enough said
 
I was looking at my stock headers and was wondering does this look like a crack or is it just casting. I don’t hear or feel it leaking but it has me wondering. 465507C1-7C67-45D1-99CE-8BE049D502EA.png
 
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