Any machine shop can resurface it flat.... cheap...:wink: "I" wouldn't be trying to straighten it with an adj. wrench...
I've thought about that but, I'm almost afraid this thing might be warped too much. It's warped close to 1/8"
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SignUp Now!Any machine shop can resurface it flat.... cheap...:wink: "I" wouldn't be trying to straighten it with an adj. wrench...
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We have been welding these drivers side headers for years and have not had one person come back and say it cracked again. Just let me know if you need it done..
Scot W.
Bruce, Thanks for the kind words!:wink:
Yes I do!!! Thank you, Scott. I did remember from a previous post by you almost the exact words you said above, and that's why I recommended and picked you. You've always done quality, top work, and I just greatly admire how you treat everybody here on the forum....a class act and true gentleman....we could all learn from you. I mean, look at all the time, trouble and effort you went through for all the guys here who bought your fantastic LED tail lights.....I was so damn impressed! And yes.....soon.....I'm getting an LED tail light set from you....and only you. That's a promise.:wink:
Do you weld a gusset between No.s 3 and No.s 5 header tubes? Is this included in your permanent fix for them?
Bruce '87 Grand National
use a adjiustable wrench on the flange. close it real small so it slips on the flange then lightly tweak it outward till it seals up. thats how i fixed mine
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We have been welding these drivers side headers for years and have not had one person come back and say it cracked again. Just let me know if you need it done..
Scot W.
Not much! When you start fooling around with those flanges you usually end up making a can of worms out of them. Heat and over torque does them in and it's a bitch to straighten them.What can be done about warped/not sealing OE flanges (header to cross over)
Do you guys also "Clean" them up on the inside??
When I seen that pic I thought that was one of mine! lolI had my welder repair the driver side and weld in a 1/4" thick gusset to help keep the tubes from separating. Exactly how Scot described. I haven't run them yet, but they look a helluva lot more robust. $40 for the work.
View attachment 111083
I had my welder repair the driver side and weld in a 1/4" thick gusset to help keep the tubes from separating. Exactly how Scot described. I haven't run them yet, but they look a helluva lot more robust. $40 for the work.
View attachment 111083
How much were they?
The dues to that club seem to be $240 a year correct? Guess you have to be a member to get any type of discount.
well got a pair of stock headers already welded form a local board member( thnx ramon)
got everything installed except the turbo. now here is the problem don't have 300+ for a DP right now so i was going to use the stocker for a bit.. oh ya just got a ta49 also
well the upper part of the hole is ported and the puck doesnt seal its off by like 1/16 maybe..
seems as the hole is not even circled more eliptical..or wait it is a circle but a portion is ported at an angle idk if u guys understand or not
hard to explain...
my q is is there any way to buy a bigger puck.. or what are my options here..
will this over ported hole have a huge affect..
will post pics tomorow morning
It will have a huge effect (severe lag/lack of boost) if the puck doesn't cover the hole... RJC sells a nice new puck assembly...not positive it's bigger than stock, but I would assume it must be... it's cheap (well, affordable), but also not positive it's applicable to the stock downpipe/gate.... with the new ta49, i'd venture that you need to bite the bullet and spring for a downpipe to match.... by the time you spent the money to buy/fit/install the puck ass'y to the stock DP, it prolly would only cost a few bucks more go ahead with a new/used 3" aftermarket DP....that's what i'd do... :wink: