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H
Heisenberg
Guest
Yeah - you aren't that far off.
Close enough doesn't count though - I know.
Still leaning inner fender location.
The outer fenders bolt on the inners - but they have tolerances. It's not as if they are doweled.
The issue is that your outer fenders are all bolted nice n snug now on the inners and loosening everything ain't no easy task.
Again - how does the gap look at the doors?
No it wasnt a fiberglass repop, it was a composite import body crash part, side by side it looked great like it was going to work fine but upon istallation it was ohh thats a little off. and then ohh thats off too, then oh man wow thats off also. I got to where the bezels wouldnt even sit in the headlight area with out drilling new holes for the screws and then them not being square. Good for a hooptie car but not one I got this far on.Yeah - lemme guess.
It came from South Florida?
I heard those wiggle and flap at 55 mph!
H
Heisenberg
Guest
Put some painters tape on the side edges of that hood until you get it figured out. 
Doors have nice gap about 5/16, well except for the driver door at the bottom but that has a bad set of hinge pins that the body guy "forgot" to do so I have to bring it back to him when tha car is done so he can do those and do some touch ups
I am ready to pull the engine and trans out of this thing and put it into the dirty roller I bought a few months ago just so I can drive and enjoy a damn car, Its been 2 years since I drove a Turbo Regal.Put some painters tape on the side edges of that hood until you get it figured out.
I realized I'm putting together some museum peice I an going to be afraid to get scratched or dirty.
H
Heisenberg
Guest
LOL - easy boy.
You're almost there.
No need to get out the flame thrower quite yet.
This picture sort of shows the major bolts that hold the inner fender onto the A-pillar and frame.
Again - the hood bolts to the INNER FENDERS - so following logic - if the hood must go back - the INNER FENDERS must go back.
OR - the front clip must go forward. (That includes the core support - which has it's own sloppy adjustments in the form of the front bushings - as the outer fender is attached to it via the "L" bracket)
Or a combination of the two is more likely.
The door gap is going to be the guiding factor.
You are rightfully correct to hang the doors first - back edge at B pillar first.
Then work forward.
There is a fair amount of slop in these two main inner fender bolts and the one under that goes vertical underneath.
I may be completely wrong here - but there is more than enough to scooch the inner fender back by a decent amount, and the outer fender forward by a similar amount.
I know the 2 front bolts at the frame locate the front of the inner fender.
But most of the connections are those sloppy speed nuts that leave alot of slop
Since the header is attached to the outer fenders - it goes forward with it.
I have the lose inner and outer fenders in my hand - but my frame is at the storage yard - so I can't exactly tell. That and the body (firewall / A-pillar) is not here.
Once again - those boys from Flint weren't so stupid after all were they?
They probably made these adjustments in seconds or minutes on the assembly line.
Easy to take them apart - alot harder to make them fit back together (well).
You're almost there.
No need to get out the flame thrower quite yet.
This picture sort of shows the major bolts that hold the inner fender onto the A-pillar and frame.
Again - the hood bolts to the INNER FENDERS - so following logic - if the hood must go back - the INNER FENDERS must go back.
OR - the front clip must go forward. (That includes the core support - which has it's own sloppy adjustments in the form of the front bushings - as the outer fender is attached to it via the "L" bracket)
Or a combination of the two is more likely.
The door gap is going to be the guiding factor.
You are rightfully correct to hang the doors first - back edge at B pillar first.
Then work forward.
There is a fair amount of slop in these two main inner fender bolts and the one under that goes vertical underneath.
I may be completely wrong here - but there is more than enough to scooch the inner fender back by a decent amount, and the outer fender forward by a similar amount.
I know the 2 front bolts at the frame locate the front of the inner fender.
But most of the connections are those sloppy speed nuts that leave alot of slop
Since the header is attached to the outer fenders - it goes forward with it.
I have the lose inner and outer fenders in my hand - but my frame is at the storage yard - so I can't exactly tell. That and the body (firewall / A-pillar) is not here.
Once again - those boys from Flint weren't so stupid after all were they?
They probably made these adjustments in seconds or minutes on the assembly line.
Easy to take them apart - alot harder to make them fit back together (well).
Attachments
Well I got the problem solved most of it was just trying to do it by myself. There was more adjustment left in my hinges I was eye balling and I took one bolt all the way out to see where the slot was in relation to the bolt hole and there was a bit more.
H
Heisenberg
Guest
Yaaay!
So you are not going to flame throw the car now?
It lives to fight another day!
Glad we didn't have to pull all that sheet metal off the body and start over again.
So you are not going to flame throw the car now?
It lives to fight another day!
Glad we didn't have to pull all that sheet metal off the body and start over again.
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