Heard it a 1,000 times NO SPARK

84TTRegal

1984 TT Regal
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Ok I have a 1984 T-Type with only 47,000 orig miles on it.

I had the car running like new.

so I figured lets give this car what it's got so I start out with a burnout it spooled up quik with the factory locker doing it's job both tires boiling smoke.

After that I pulled up to a stop sign and was going to make a left hand turn and was going to take the car side way's up the road. I take off straight then cut the wheel to the left with the tires screaming and it just's shut off.

The car turns over fine.

The timing chain is not broke cause rocker arms are stilling going up and down.

I checked all the fuses they were all working.

I pulled one of the spark plug wires with a spark plug connected to it and grounded it out no spark.

The coil is getting power.

The cam sensor is getting power.

The crank sensor is getting power.

I took the cap off the cam sensor and it looked brand new.I tried to turn the piece that spins to see if the teeth were stripped and it didn't slip,but I did notice that you could turn the hole body of the cam sensor that it wasn't tightend down good, by the way the orig owner did change the cam.

My question is the green wire that runs to the came sensor shouldn't it be making my test light flash when trying to start the car???

Also if the cam sensor spun because it wasn't tightend down good would that cause it not to have spark????

Last ????? how can I test the coil at home without some type of meter I do not own one.

Any help would be grateful

Thanks
Cliff
 
Cam sensor adjustment would not control spark.
So your fueling will be off, but you should still get spark.

A weak coil is possible, but with the plug out, it should spark.

You could also have a bad Crank sensor that suddenly went out. (usually intermittent and when warm though)
If the coil is getting power, and there is a sudden "no spark condition" (after a Force burnout :cool: ) , I would suspect the ECM "may" not be getting power.

Verify the easy stuff first .........
Since you already verified the fuses, verify the power wire to the ECM.
Does the fuel pump prime for a few seconds when you turn the key?
Any codes? SES light flashes?
 
Trouble shooting

Well to be honest for what ever reason the fuel pump does not ever prime by just turning the key switch to the on position:rolleyes: ,but normally after the engine starts turning it will fire right up.

I have heard it still running for a moment after the engine is shut off.

BUT the car has a fuel cell in the trunk with an external electric fuel pump, but the pump is hooked up like factory.

Also I did look over all the harness to make sure there wasn't a broken wire.

About the green wire that runs to the Cam sensor shouldn't it be making my test light flash as I try to start the engine???????

Also the temp was in the mid 90's when this happened,but the car was at 190degrees so it wasn't running hot when it happened.

I will see if the ECM is getting power this afternoon.

I will keep yall updated.

Thanks for the reply's
Cliff
 
the fuel pump should prime when you turn the key to the on postion. if it doesnt i would check the realy on the passenger side fire wall. when this relay goes bad it wont prime then once you start cranking the car over the oil pressure will ground the fuel pump relay then the pump will kick on. as far as the green wire not sure which green wire your talking about. there is a tach lead down by the coil pack that has a green end on it.
 
make sure the harmonic balancer is tight, mine cracked were it meets the crank, on the back side and moved just enough at WOT that it shaved off the very inside of the crank sensor with the reluctor wheel on the crank balancer. I didn't realize it until i pulled it off, check it out, your car died just like mine!
,Dan
 
It's also possible to loose the magnet from the Crank sensor. Usually you have some clearance issues and the reluctor ring hits the sensor but if the magnet comes out it will just shut off but give no codes since the sensor appears to the ECM to be connected just no RPM
 
mine had no trouble codes, also it must have disabled the sensing, but was still connected.
,dan
 
make sure the harmonic balancer is tight, mine cracked were it meets the crank, on the back side and moved just enough at WOT that it shaved off the very inside of the crank sensor with the reluctor wheel on the crank balancer. I didn't realize it until i pulled it off, check it out, your car died just like mine!
,Dan

This seems to me to be the most likely scenario... He said the previous owner did a camshaft, didn't tighten the cam sensor properly. That big fattie of a 28 mm bolt on the end of the crank eludes most people's tool collection. Not to mention the torque wrench required to properly tighten it is also not usually found in the average garage's tool box.

I'd bet it got about 35 ft. lbs when it was re-installed from the camshaft, and has backed loose.

Easy to check. Do the accessory pulleys line up with the crank pulley?
 
Tested

Ok first thing I did was made sure the ECM was getting power I unplugged the smaller connector from the ECM turned the key on had power.

Next I checked the two Relay's The GREY relay I connected a hot wire to the main male pole on the relay and used my test light to see if the current flowed threw,but no power was getting to the other two power female slots.

The Black relay seem to test fine power flowed threw it.

I also made sure that the harnesses connecting to the relay's had power.

Now for the crank sensor I can move it left to right about a quarter inch should I be able to do this?????

I havn't looked to see if the pulley's are lined up with the crank pulley I will check that this afternoon.

If there is any thing else I need to check please let me know thanks for all yalls responces.

I will buy two new relays today just to make sure everything is working properly.

Thanks
Cliff
 
Electric Spark Module?????

What about the Electric Spark Module??

I tested it to make sure it was getting power.

BUT if it is not working then I wouldn't get spark correct:confused:

Has anyone ever had a problem with there ESM????

I guess it could be a possibilty just trying to get this thing running.
 
Ok first thing I did was made sure the ECM was getting power I unplugged the smaller connector from the ECM turned the key on had power.

Next I checked the two Relay's The GREY relay I connected a hot wire to the main male pole on the relay and used my test light to see if the current flowed threw,but no power was getting to the other two power female slots.

The Black relay seem to test fine power flowed threw it.

I also made sure that the harnesses connecting to the relay's had power.

Now for the crank sensor I can move it left to right about a quarter inch should I be able to do this?????

I havn't looked to see if the pulley's are lined up with the crank pulley I will check that this afternoon.

If there is any thing else I need to check please let me know thanks for all yalls responces.

I will buy two new relays today just to make sure everything is working properly.

Thanks
Cliff

If your sensor is moving at all it is VERY likely that it is junk, let alone 1/4 inch each way!!!!!!!!! Just to let you know the gap between the sensor for the reluctor disc is only about 1/8 wide, and there is a VERY SMALL clearance when the disc is in between it for it to go back and forth, it should be completely tight and unable to move at all!!!! Pull it off and look at it.
,Dan
 
Crank sensor

I didn't have time to mess with the car yesterday I had to cut my grass ,but anyway's I have to remove the water pump and timing chain cover to remove the crank sensor correct??????

Should I go on and put a new cam sensor in it to wile I have it tore apart????




Thanks alot
Cliff
 
I didn't have time to mess with the car yesterday I had to cut my grass ,but anyway's I have to remove the water pump and timing chain cover to remove the crank sensor correct??????

Should I go on and put a new cam sensor in it to wile I have it tore apart????




Thanks alot
Cliff

Nope, it's bolted to a bracket on the DS of the crank Harmonic balancer.
 
Thanks for the help

Well guy's thanks for all yalls help that yall have given me,but I sold the car Sunday I couldn't turn down the offer.

By the way it was the Crank Sensor.

MONEY TALKS

I just wanted to let yall know that yall have been excellent and that I appreciate the time that yall gave up to help someone in need instead of saying what a troll do your own research.

I am gratefully greatfull thanks agian for yalls help

Cliff
 
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