Help - brake line removal

[87-WE2]

doing a vac conversion today. everything going smooth until time to remove brake lines from the powermaster master cylinder. the one at the front of the car came out smooth as a baby's ass. I can't get the one closest to the firewall to budge. Yes I'm using a flare wrench. SOB has rolled over. I'm about ready to grab it with a pipe wrench. Any suggestions on getting this mutha off? I've got penetrant on it right now to see if it'll loosen while i take a break & do dinner. I DO NOT want to have to change a line.

I've been through this before with the brake line to the rear drum set up. Ended up replacing a line. I would imagine that the rear line is both easier to find and easier to swap out. I figured I could borrow a flaring tool from the parts store, but their monkey tubing flaring tool wouldn't flare the thicker brake line back there. The lines on the mc seem to be the same as those.

Any suggestions from anyone?

Thanks for any input you might have.

 

[87-WE2]

doing a vac conversion today. everything going smooth until time to remove brake lines from the powermaster master cylinder. the one at the front of the car came out smooth as a baby's ass. I can't get the one closest to the firewall to budge. Yes I'm using a flare wrench. SOB has rolled over. I'm about ready to grab it with a pipe wrench. Any suggestions on getting this mutha off? I've got penetrant on it right now to see if it'll loosen while i take a break & do dinner. I DO NOT want to have to change a line.

I've been through this before with the brake line to the rear drum set up. Ended up replacing a line. I would imagine that the rear line is both easier to find and easier to swap out. I figured I could borrow a flaring tool from the parts store, but their monkey tubing flaring tool wouldn't flare the thicker brake line back there. The lines on the mc seem to be the same as those.

Any suggestions from anyone?

Thanks for any input you might have.

trying PB Blaster - hope this stuff works.

 

[Phoneguy]

Tighten first to break the seal, then try again. You may end up using a vice grip and destroying the fitting

Bryan

 

[87-WE2]

Tighten first to break the seal, then try again. You may end up using a vice grip and destroying the fitting

Bryan

Thanks for the tip. Tried channel locks - no go. This sucks.

 

[pacecarta]

just grab it with channel locks and break it loose

muscle up its a steel fitting in aluminum
you could always add a little heat

ive done many conversions and as it worked out today i had to do another .. on my 87
had to give up on the PM when the motor started leaking (again)

 

[87-WE2]

Holy effin cow. Couldnt get enough leverage with the vise grips. Ended up using a pipe wrench. Almosr passed out but finally got it. I aint no wussy boy either. You think its ok to reuse this fitting? My plan is to connect it and see if it leaks. If no leaks i plan on using it. Think thats a bad idea?

This iphone app is bad a$$.

 

[87-WE2]

Thanks for the advice gentlemen.

 

[pacecarta]

if it threads in it will seal , just use the channel lock to snug it up

 

[87-WE2]

TYhanks guys for the help. Its out and the new pedal is in. The easy part seems to be over. I have no idea how that wiring harness is goin to stay with that big ol booster in there. Im gonna look around at some pics of other guys to get some ideas.

Seems like it either goes over the booster or under it. Its not long enough to go over it, and if it goes under, the harness will pinch between the steering shaft and the under side of the booster.

Ive seen posts of guys doing this the first time and only taking 2hrs. I'd pay good money to watch that!!! I'm not saying its not true, but i don't know how.

I'm going to go poke my intestines back in my abdominal cavity from bustin yhat brake line loose and go to bed.

Thanks so much to all who helped.

 

[John Larkin]

I'm going to go poke my intestines back in

Haha. NAPA sells a short line with that fitting on it. Since you are going to all this trouble you might think about buying one. Take your line out from the distribution block underneath and then find a mechanic with a good tool to change out the fitting for you. The p/n was 813-1157 but it may have been changed by now,and was $5.50. This was years ago.