Help....no Brakes!!!!

[jonathanp]

I was driving my 87GN home from work last night. Everything was going well stop and starting until......I went to stop for a red light and the brake pedal was hard as a rock. I had not been hard on the brakes at all either. It felt like trying to stop a power brake car, with the engine not running......

I pulled over, checked everything I knew to check, got back in the car and everything was fine. Drove another 5-6 miles home.

Any advice would be appreciated. I know these TR's have finiky brakes, but this is down right dangerous!

JP

 

[SuperSix]

How long has it been since you replaced the accumulator? Brake light coming on at all?

There's some good info here:
http://gnttype.org/techarea/brakes/PwrMstr.html

 

[jonathanp]

the accumulator has not been replaced to my knowledge. I have only owned the car since Jan 03 and it is my first TR so I am learning more and more every day.....

Thanks for the info, my a short read through is does sound like my accumulator is bad or going bad.

 

[gtokid1]

Kirban's had the best price on them around $85.00 less than half what the dealers want.

John

 

[SuperSix]

GM PART # 18038507
GM LIST: $208.74
OUR PRICE: $104.37

From GMPartsDirect.com

There's also some used low mileage ones for sale in Parts For Sale, or you may want to consider a vacuum conversion..

 

[soonergn]

Your Powermaster system quit working which provides the power to the brakes. It could be caused by one of the 3 components in the system failing. The last time that exact thing happened to me it was the pump motor that gave up but it could also be a weak accumulator (black ball) or failed pressure switch (on top with wiring plugged in it). This system really is simple as almost all problems with the power portion of the brakes is caused by just those 3 parts. If you can find a buddy to swap parts with temporarily then it should be easy. Make sure the system is depressurised by following the instructions on the reservoir cap, then the accumulator just unscrews to remove and screw in another to test. For the pressure switch, just unplug the wiring, unscrew it, and screw in a different one. One of these 2 usually fixes the problem but if not then look towards the pump motor next. It is more difficult to remove and you'll want to check it last. It is held on with 3 nuts and drops out from the bottom after unplugging the wiring harness and unhooking the pressure and return lines. Drain the side of the reservoir that the return line goes to or it will run right out when you undo it. This will be messy and brake fluid makes good paint remover so don't let brake fluid sit on paint for very long. All of this is assuming there is power to the system and sufficient brake fluid in the pump side of the reservoir so check the fuse and fluid level first. Check the fluid level ONLY after depressurising the system which will raise the fluid level. Otherwise you will over fill it and make a mess when you turn the key on. This was way longer than I thought it would be but I hope it helps you out.

 

[Luz2av6]

Three weeks ago my pressure switch started leaking through the connecter. I could have bought a new one but decided it was cheaper going vacuum. I like vacuum a lot better.

 

[turbot2112]

i had the brakes go out 3 diffrent times. always tried the accumulator first. never was the problem.replaced powermaster 3 times. finnaly i switched to vacuume for less than half the price. no more worrys.

 

[jonathanp]

What is the cost to switch from powermaster to vacuum setup? If that is more reliable and cheaper, why shouldn't I do that.

Thanks for all the help guys!

Jonathan

 

[turbot2112]

i think red regal t sells the whole kit for like 125.

 

[Red Regal T]

SAVE POWER MASTER REPAIR MONEY AND MANY FUTURE POWERMASTER REPAIR EXPENDITURES AND SWITCH TO VACUUM BRAKES. MY AD IN THE PARTS FOR SALE SECTION.

 

[jonathanp]

Red Regal T, "aol voice" YOU HAVE MAIL

 

[GNSCOTT]

Or you could go to autozone and buy a whole new replacement powermaster for around $200. Your 1st powermaster seemed to last around 15 years, and it takes about 1/2 hr to reinstall.

 

[soonergn]

I got my Powermaster assembly at O'reilly Auto Parts with a lifetime warranty. I think they are around $240 but may not be shown in their parts listing. Our Oklahoma club has a deal going with an Okla. city location. They really are easy to change out. Also, we have generally found that the Powermaster works better at holding boost than a vacuum conversion.